All Small Six Stuck between the shock tower (rock) and the starter (hard place). SOLVED
- Thread starter Kritas
- Start date
This relates to all small sixes
Substituted a '69 Mustang pedal assembly after reading that a number of guys had used them. Here's the parts list:
www.summitracing.com
www.summitracing.com
The first link is a combo kit from Lokar with throttle cable, carb linkage and the C4 kickdown cable. Can anyone see problems with using this setup? The Lokar pedal is a nice design, but it'd stick out like a sore thumb in my stock interior and is expensive. I also read some negative reviews on it.
Lokar 03-0044 Summit Racing™ Throttle Cable and Kickdown Cable Pro Packs | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ Throttle Cable and Kickdown Cable Pro Packs with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Throttle Cable and Kickdown Cable Combos at Summit Racing.
Scott Drake C9ZZ-9735-K Scott Drake Pedal Assemblies | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Scott Drake Pedal Assemblies with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Pedal Assemblies at Summit Racing.
The first link is a combo kit from Lokar with throttle cable, carb linkage and the C4 kickdown cable. Can anyone see problems with using this setup? The Lokar pedal is a nice design, but it'd stick out like a sore thumb in my stock interior and is expensive. I also read some negative reviews on it.
You might look at the 1970's up 250 Six Maverick's and Comets stock they all use a Cable Throttle and that type Gas Pedal
Some headers don't have a starter clearance problem. I don't know what brand they are.
They don't look like the cheap eBay headers .
You can flatten the bottom of the #6 tube + flatten the top of the solenoid cover.
Lift up on the rear of the header before you tighten it. Make sure the gasket is up as high as possible over the siamese port.
The header + gasket didn't cover much above the 2-4 siamese port on the eBay header that I test fit on an engine in my garage.
I had to elongate a couple of the lower front bolt holes just to get all the bolts started.
They don't look like the cheap eBay headers .
You can flatten the bottom of the #6 tube + flatten the top of the solenoid cover.
Lift up on the rear of the header before you tighten it. Make sure the gasket is up as high as possible over the siamese port.
The header + gasket didn't cover much above the 2-4 siamese port on the eBay header that I test fit on an engine in my garage.
I had to elongate a couple of the lower front bolt holes just to get all the bolts started.
I have one on hand. I hate the way they look, though.
You could make a simple Metal Shield too that mounts above the starter.
I would not worry about it, I do not think that any heat protection is necessary, the starter does not seem to care. There are no windings under that cover just steel and a set of heavy contacts.
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I have an 18 inch brake and was thinking about making one if it's needed.
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ActionYobbo
New member
what brand are they? can you post a picture of them on showing the clearance on the engine mount?
thanks
thanks
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The stock 200 large log six only makes around 15 net hp per cylinder.
A 68+ exhaust manifold with a 2" outlet will perform just fine.
I can cruise along side and or pass the new cars on I-80 at 85 mph at 3,000 rpm with a 68 + 2" outlet exhaust manifold.
I live in the foothills so my top speed is limited by the up and down winding roads-freeway and the California CHP.
I have a test fit modified ebay header + a heat shield modified starter and have all the parts to install them.
I have found the small Ford six performance comes from keeping the engine in it's power band when shifting.
There is a reason the Argentine Falcon six race cars run a six speed.
I have 6 forward gears with my C4-GV Overdrive.
Below is a comment from another forum
A 68+ exhaust manifold with a 2" outlet will perform just fine.
I can cruise along side and or pass the new cars on I-80 at 85 mph at 3,000 rpm with a 68 + 2" outlet exhaust manifold.
I live in the foothills so my top speed is limited by the up and down winding roads-freeway and the California CHP.
I have a test fit modified ebay header + a heat shield modified starter and have all the parts to install them.
I have found the small Ford six performance comes from keeping the engine in it's power band when shifting.
There is a reason the Argentine Falcon six race cars run a six speed.
I have 6 forward gears with my C4-GV Overdrive.
Below is a comment from another forum
That's about what mine look like installed. There's actually a lot of room around the starter with the headers on, but I wasn't able to install the headers with the engine in the car and the starter bolted up because of interference from the shock tower. The fix was a lot simpler than it looked when I posted the thread. The headers are from VI. They aren't the Drake ones, they are the no-name ones that VI sells. I'm very pleased with their construction, especially for the price.
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Kritas, if you want to make effective heat shields cheap and easy, a sheet of .030" steel is surprisingly effective, easy to fab and lightweight. On my home heater, the inside of the sheet can be 750+ degrees. The outside can be touched, incredibly. Outside reads in the mid 90's degrees. Keep in mind that it's a reflector of the heat, not an absorber, so imagine a mirror when you consider installation, because it sends the heat back in the direction it's facing.
Attachments
I have quite a bit of scrap sheet metal in various gauges. I wish I'd have thought about this before reinstalling the starter, as I could have made a pattern from the attachment points. However, it'll be easy to pull it again to make a shield. If I make one, I'll post a PDF file of the pattern.
