200ci 1965 Mustang

[Frank]

Hey, the rotors are 10 1/4. Nothing else needs to be replaced. The passenger side rotor is warped bc the power booster was adjusted incorrectly. This caused the front brakes to drag, overheat, and warp. At least, thats what we think. I don’t really want to but a new front brake kit. I was hoping to find rotors that size that I could replace with.

The booster will not directly cause a brake to drag, it's the caliper most likely. On reinstall, be sure the pins are deburred of old rust and crud. A drill operated wire wheel works well. then use the disk brake grease lube on them to be sure the caliper releases fully when the pressure is released. I've ruined rotors a couple of times before realizing the old caliper was sticky, not releasing all the way.

 

[78_200_C4]

Why run a booster when a 15/16" 74 Maverick master cylinder stop an early Mustang or Falcon just fine. It will have about 8% less pedal effort than a 1" bore master cylinder.

 

[TrickSix]

Sounds like you've got a lead on the rotors you need. FWIW, the Scarebird rotors are about 9-3/4" in diameter. Back when I was thinking about converting to disc brakes, this future custom parts availability issue was why I thought Scarebird was the way to go if you plan on keeping your car long-term.

 

[CWT1129]

Hey Frank, so I just got the car back yesterday. The rotors were replaced, brakes bled, calipers slide and retract as they should. Front brakes are still locking up after 4 or so miles. The place I took it said they adjusted the pushrod, but I think they are full of shit. There’s no possibility that the pushrod going into the master cylinder is too long and that’s causing the issue? I don’t know what else it would be

 

[clochard68]

Hey Frank, so I just got the car back yesterday. The rotors were replaced, brakes bled, calipers slide and retract as they should. Front brakes are still locking up after 4 or so miles. The place I took it said they adjusted the pushrod, but I think they are full of shit. There’s no possibility that the pushrod going into the master cylinder is too long and that’s causing the issue? I don’t know what else it would be

I had similar problems. In my case the brake pedal didn't move completely back to the neutral position on it's own. I added a spring to the break pedal and the issue was gone.

 

[bubba22349]

The Master Cylinder Push Rod should have an eccentric adjustment to them its fairly easy to do. And the Power Booster Push Rod should also have an adjustment on the end of push rod it's not quite as easy as the regular Master Cylinders but is not that hard to do.

 

[Frank]

I had similar problems. In my case the brake pedal didn't move completely back to the neutral position on it's own. I added a spring to the break pedal and the issue was gone.

Yes, same issue and solution on an old car. Be sure the pedal is coming up "firmly". If it's slow or floats at the top, add a spring.

 

[CWT1129]

Ty guys. Turns out the pushrod was way too far in causing pre load like I expected. I ended up dialing it back so that the pedals engages at a good spot and retracts with no issues. Just wish I would have realized this in the beginning. When adding headers, where should we set our choke hose if we are keeping the automatic choke with the 1v carbs? Also, my car starts fine, runs fine at both high and low idle. But after driving awhile, it sometimes runs rough and stalls like it’s running too lean or the choke is closed. New fuel pump, points, etc. The carb was also rebuilt. Wondering if it a plug issue bc sometimes I hear a some miss fire at the exhaust. Any thoughts?

 

[jcom4179]

Yeh, they are 1 in 100 as far as fitting

Thats completely incorrect!!! I've installed at least 12 ebay inline 6 cylinder headers in the past 2 years and never had 1 problem. Maybe when they first came out there might have been quite a few that were, let's say not quite lining up. I can only speak for the past couple of years. One hint "DO NOT USE THE GASKET THEY INCLUDE WITH THE HEADER"!! Spend a few well spent extra bucks for a FEL-PRO,
$12 bucks on Amazon.
Good luck

 

[Frank]

Ty guys. Turns out the pushrod was way too far in causing pre load like I expected. I ended up dialing it back so that the pedals engages at a good spot and retracts with no issues. Just wish I would have realized this in the beginning. When adding headers, where should we set our choke hose if we are keeping the automatic choke with the 1v carbs? Also, my car starts fine, runs fine at both high and low idle. But after driving awhile, it sometimes runs rough and stalls like it’s running too lean or the choke is closed. New fuel pump, points, etc. The carb was also rebuilt. Wondering if it a plug issue bc sometimes I hear a some miss fire at the exhaust. Any thoughts?

When it's warmed up pull the air cleaner and be sure the choke is all the way open. If the choke is staying partly closed it will idle "bumpy" and feel flat, and you may see some black smoke. If it stalls it will take longer to restart. Pumping the gas makes it worse. It's rich.
If it's going lean the choke is open and the issue is fuel supply. If it stalls too lean pumping the gas will cause it to fire right up, no smoke.
Check the choke first. After 5 minutes of driving it should be fully open.

 

[John Ha]

When adding headers, where should we set our choke hose if we are keeping the automatic choke with the 1v carbs?

All you want from the choke tube is hot air. You can wrap the tube around one of the header pipes to get that, as long as you're careful and don't crimp the tube closed when you bend it.

 

[bmbm40]

Im running ebay headers with 2.5", single exit ( single chamber muffler and a resonator). I have a 144. Heres a link to a cold start if you want to see what it sounds like.

Cool that you are hopping up your 144! Sounds good.

 

[78_200_C4]

Thats completely incorrect!!! I've installed at least 12 ebay inline 6 cylinder headers in the past 2 years and never had 1 problem. Maybe when they first came out there might have been quite a few that were, let's say not quite lining up. I can only speak for the past couple of years. One hint "DO NOT USE THE GASKET THEY INCLUDE WITH THE HEADER"!! Spend a few well spent extra bucks for a FEL-PRO,
$12 bucks on Amazon.
Good luck

All eBay small Ford six headers are not the same.
A visual inspection can tell which eBay header's #6 tube will or will not interfere with the starter.
Ford did not use an exhaust manifold gasket for good reason.
The gasket will cause the exhaust bolts to lose their preload.
I don't run a header gasket on my 78 200.
The header bolts have always stayed tight and I have zero exhaust leaks.

Bolt Science Web Site

www.boltscience.com

 

[78_200_C4]

I followed the same path that 78_200_C4 recommended. It was even more effective since I have a 250 large log head. I like the HEI (I stuck in a cheap Amazon HEI unit as a temporary fix), but it's big and a lot of people find them ugly. I have a programmable HEI unit on the way that looks much more "factory". My goal was to get the car on the road by doing the most needed fixes first (exhaust, brakes, fuel, cooling) and sorting out the finer points of performance later.

I have a D7 200-250 large log head on my 78 200 with a greatly enlarged intake port with a good looking black cap HEI, Rochester Marine large base 2V carb., 3.55 posi with a 6 speed automatic provided by a GV Overdrive mounted on the back of a C4.