1980 200 - is it worth buying?

[Anonymous]

More questions since I can't look at it without a long drive and the owner's out of town...... I remember seeing a big bracket that mounts on the front driver's side of the engine to mount the a/c compressor and alternator. Will this (or shall I said should it) also have the proper threaded holes in the lower front passenger side of the block to use the early alternator mount on? I'm hoping I can use my rebuilt 170 water pump, pulley, and alternator on this engine.

S-man

 

[addo]

Am I missing something? The owner built the motor, hasn't used it, isn't interested enough to preserve the parts (viz, the carb for example), and has left it outside...

Hire a ute overnight (cheaper and more discreet) and borrow a friend or two. I'd even take the tarp.

 

[Anonymous]

He rebuilt it for another fairmont that he had at the time, but I guess sold both cars together, the one with the engine out as a parts car I assume. The engine was going to be put in the other car, hence the poorly preserved smaller parts. The engine itself seems to be well preserved.

 

[Anonymous]

The '79 engine I have has the 2 tapped holes at the oil pan line on the passenger side for mounting your alternator (or generator). At first, I used my original generator on it, but I later converted to an alternator using the adaptor brackets that are being sold.

Most of the late model 200s I've seen had the big alternator/AC bracket on the passenger side of the engine. That's where it was on mine, too.

You can use your water pump and pulley, but you might/probably will have to replace the harmonic balancer with a one groove unit like you have now. Aside from possible belt alignment problems with the double groove, there might not be enough room for the double groove balancer anyway. We all know how close the radiator/fan/engine are on the Falcons.

 

[Anonymous]

Yes the big bracket on the passenger side of the block is an AC compressor bracket. I decided to use this bracket as I was also installing AC in my car at the same time as the swap. The alternator hangs underneath AC bracket. The late motor had a big alternator that wouldn't fit between the frame rails of my Falcon. I was able to use a small alternator pretty easily except that I had to increase the arch of the adjustment arm to get enough travel to allow belt adjustment.

The late motors water pump had a long nose which would not fit behind the radiator. The late motor WP pulley had 3 grooves with the third used to drive the smog pump. It was also smaller diameter than the early WP pulley while the harmonic balancer pulley (HB) was larger dia.

I was able with a lot of fabrication and trial and error, to put together a combo that mixed a short WP, an 70's era double groove WP pulley and the the late HB pulley. It was a lot of trouble. If I had parts avalability (the wreckers around here have little or no early I-6 ford stuff.) I would have used an entirely early double pulley system.

Mike A

 

[Anonymous]

Whew! So I could probably just use my early water pump, pulley, and harmonic balancer, right? Or will the early balancer even fit on the late crankshaft? The only reason I'd need to use the AC bracket is in case I ever decide to run A/C and a header- and that look's unlikely at the moment.

S-man

 

[Anonymous]

I didn't try to switch balancers during my swap but I have no reason to doubt that it would work. Definately the water pump will bolt up. These motors are very close to the same. I mixed the early WP pully with the late balancer pully by making a spacer to line up the belts. I think that the spacer was about 3/16" or so. I drilled the bolt pattern of the hub into a thick flat washer and welded it to the inner face of the WP pulley. I also had to grind the edges of the pulleys slightly because they rubbed due to the larger diameter of the HB pulley. They work fine now but I lost my timing mark in the process. I should have made a new timing mark before grinding the old one off, Duhh.

Mike A

 

[Anonymous]

Or will the early balancer even fit on the late crankshaft?

It will. I just replaced my old one with a new stock single groove for an early 200.

 

[Anlushac11]

8)

In 1979 Ford Corporate renamed all motors to metric to fit in with their World Class Comapny theme.

The 302 was renamed a 5.0L, the 351W was renamed a 5.8L and the 200 Inline six was renamed the 3.3L.

Ford only used the inline six because the demand for the Cologne 2.8L V6 was so high that Ford of Europe could not supply the demands of Europe and America.

With few modifications this 200 /3.3L is the same motor offered in 1966 with seven main bearings.

I got rid of a/c on my Stang and ditched that 30lb 3/8" thick armor plate L shaped bracket.

 

[Anonymous]

This is all sounding very doable- now if i can just get my stupid axle bearing seals to stop leaking and get the car off jackstands, I can put the engine in my garage when I bring it home. The landlady won't have it in the driveway!

 

[Anonymous]

Sedanman,
Sounds like you are going to go for that motor./ If ya can't talk the guy way down on price you might ask if you can pull the pan for a look see. If it's had any moisture while sitting you should be able to find evidence there. Good luck!

There is an 80ish Mercury Marquis at a wrecker near here. It has a 200 and automatic of unknown origin. I assume it's a C3. The car is low mile and is pretty cherry. It looks like it was probably owned by an old lady. This week I'm gonna try to trade my old beat up explorer to the junkee for that motor and trans combo. If I get it I'll stick it in the corner of the garage for a rainy day.

Mike A

 

[Anonymous]

Mike,

I had the valve cover off and things looked nice and fresh and well-oiled. I don't think he'd be keen on me pulling the pan but it's worth a try asking. The drain plug threads are bunged up, so there's no plug in it. But a little oil is seeping out of the hole, so the bottom end is most likely well oiled as well.

 

[STEVEN.]

So,what are ya wait'n for? After all the 'drama' surrounding this engine,are ya gonna take it? OO6./The-X-Or-Six!

 

[Anonymous]

One, the guy's out of town for a few weeks. Two, I've had a few dramas of my own to deal with lately that have taken prioritiy away from car stuff, and will remain unsaid Plus, i still need to get my car back on four wheels to move it out so the engine and hoist can come in. Thanks for all your advice, though

S-man

 

[Anonymous]

Sedanman;
the holes in the intake you refer to are:
-the one in the middle of the intake manifold is where the EGR enters. There was an adapter plate under the carb where the EGR valve bolted on. From the back of the EGR valve was a pipe that went to:
-the hole in the exhaust manifold, near the rear. This is where the exhaust gases for the EGR valve came from.

The hole in the top of the intake manifold is where most of these have a multi-port adapter for vacuum, which looks like a threaded, right-angled tube with up to 6 ports sticking out of it, ranging from 1/8" size to 1/4" size nipples. The emission-controlled engines used 4 of these for various vacuum tasks.

The later 200 engines can breathe better than the earlier ones. They often have compression ratios of 8.0:1 or 8.5:1, which lost some power. They also were rated to exit thru a catalytic converter, which lost lots of top-end power. If you put a 1960s generation carb on it and a normal exhaust, you'll be able to get more power than the equivalent earlier engine, mostly because of the breathing improvement.

 

[TCSTEVE]

I'm an Aussie like Addo and have no real say here except that my first Corty had a 200 pre X flow but i gotta say Addos right. Grab the mates and pick the thing up.
If hes rebuilt it, lost interest,sold the car, left it for years,not bothering to make his money back and then been to slack to reply to your offers then hes a dick and if you dont take it I will or it will go to waste another 4 years!!
I got given a 160,000 mile untouched pre X flow 200 from a Grannies car for nothing because its not a 250. He even let me use his trailer to move it, i pulled the carby its never been off.

 

[Anonymous]

I don't think an early carb will bolt on this engine since it has the bigger carb hole and bolt pattern- not that I'd want to run one of my POS 1100's anyhow! He is back in town and called the other day, trouble is, I've got my car torn apart with this stupid axle bearing/seal trouble and can't move it out to get the engine and hoist inside. Can't have it out in the driveway, either, so I've got to get the car put back together so I can go buy the engine, rent a hoist, and bring it home and put it in the garage, then put the car back in and tear it down again ~groan~

 

[Falcon62]

Aww, it's all about the fun right? Life's simple pleasures. Too bad I'm not closer, I'd bring my beast over and haul it home. No greasy, grimey engines/trannies in my new truck though. 8)

 

[Anonymous]

New truck, Phil? Did the green monster finally rust away? The engine is not greasy- but a bit rusty (one the outside only!) since he never painted it. I'm going to put the falcon back together and send it to the frame shop that did dad's mustang- they thing they can check the rear housing with it in the car. Saves me some work!

BTW , A friend of mine just bought a house in Spokane as an investment- he lives here in Seattle but is going to rent it out. He makes frequent weekend trips over there to check on the work he's having done on the place, so told him I'd like to come along for the ride sometime (when it's not 100 degrees over there ) If that happens, maybe we can have a short vist- please PM me your phone # so I can call if I get a last minute invite from him someday.

Thor

 

[Anonymous]

Sedanman;
the holes in the intake you refer to are:
-the one in the middle of the intake manifold is where the EGR enters. There was an adapter plate under the carb where the EGR valve bolted on. From the back of the EGR valve was a pipe that went to:
-the hole in the exhaust manifold, near the rear. This is where the exhaust gases for the EGR valve came from.

The hole in the top of the intake manifold is where most of these have a multi-port adapter for vacuum, which looks like a threaded, right-angled tube with up to 6 ports sticking out of it, ranging from 1/8" size to 1/4" size nipples. The emission-controlled engines used 4 of these for various vacuum tasks.

MarkP,

I can't remember exactly since I have not seen it for several weeks now, but it seem's to me that the hole on top of the intake, about half way between the carb and the front end of the log, was not only fairly large in diameter, but not threaded. There are no emissions control parts coming with it, so I'm a bit stumped about how I'd plug the dang thing- probably won't look too attractive either being I like a well detailed engine. Would I have to have it welded up? That would involve removing the head. I guess I'll just have to put tri-power on it