ZC-Cruiser
Well-known member
Right side shifter = BW either 35 or 40 - it'll be stamped on an alloy tag...LukeNukem":1xubtsen said:
How many spot welds?
How many spot welds?
A
Anonymous
Guest
Mmm ok, not C4?
Ummm.... it had about 4 spots at the front, about 4-5 at the back, and around 3 on each side... And you need around an 8-10mm drill bit.
But like a said, I cut around the fucker with a screwdriver and hammer.
Freakin blunt drill bit and cordless drill.
Ummm.... it had about 4 spots at the front, about 4-5 at the back, and around 3 on each side... And you need around an 8-10mm drill bit.
But like a said, I cut around the fucker with a screwdriver and hammer.
Freakin blunt drill bit and cordless drill.
I've found caustic really good for cleaning stuff. Not alloy, but cast iron. It worked a treat on the bellhousing I bought from pcman. It got a lot of rubbish out the "pores" of the casting. Chisel the loose gunk off with a screwdriver, and just keep applying the caustic with a polyester bristle paintbrush.
Paint stripper works, too - but gets pricey. You need to phosphate it after, to remove the wax left by the stripper, or neutralise any caustic residue.
Luke:
Buy some drills; most bits under 3/16" are only about $2 for a decent one. Forcing a tool is asking for an accident. Pop the hole centre with a devilishly sharp punch and then drill with a 5/64". By the time your 5/16" drill following starts to bite through, you've won the battle.
Without a pilot hole, you'll be there for three times as long. Sometimes torchlight has an aspect of colour and shadow that makes it easier to pick the dead centre of a spot weld or other imperfection - a handy trick to have up your sleeve.
Paint stripper works, too - but gets pricey. You need to phosphate it after, to remove the wax left by the stripper, or neutralise any caustic residue.
Luke:
Buy some drills; most bits under 3/16" are only about $2 for a decent one. Forcing a tool is asking for an accident.
Pop the hole centre with a devilishly sharp punch and then drill with a 5/64". By the time your 5/16" drill following starts to bite through, you've won the battle. Without a pilot hole, you'll be there for three times as long. Sometimes torchlight has an aspect of colour and shadow that makes it easier to pick the dead centre of a spot weld or other imperfection - a handy trick to have up your sleeve.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Addo, I had one drill bit left. (all my others got stolen at work, and i didnt bother replacing them)
And that one bit, was perfect size, but blunt.
Gonna finish the clean up, then fit it in today.
As long as it dosnt rain...
And that one bit, was perfect size, but blunt.
Gonna finish the clean up, then fit it in today.
As long as it dosnt rain...
ZC-Cruiser
Well-known member
Not if the shifter is on the driver's side of the box and oil lines are on the passenger side.LukeNukem":2ixuepby said:
That would make it a Borg Warner.
Since your XF has the EEC4 engine, it is likely a late model XF and probably has a BW40 auto.
They are pretty good - not too dear to rebuild and last well if you put an external oil cooler on.
Also, when backing up, wait till the car stops befor selecting forward gears - that will make it last a lot longer...
Battery drills suck for doing any real work...
A
Anonymous
Guest
Managed to scrape the gunk off it, combo of tar, oil, dirt, grease, and rabbit fur!
Found the tag on it, Borgy Forty it is!
I've got the external oil cooler off the XF to whack on it.
And, the lifespan of the BW40, well, I don't think its been treated very gently.
I sure as hell didnt, I expected to just ditch it once I got my use from it.
But having said that, it sure seemed pretty healthy!
Kickdown was good, changed gears smoothly, and almost chirps the tires if changing at 300-400rpm.
Might have been replaced...
And yeah, battery drills suck a hell of a lot, except for doing a screws, and drilling wood and plastic.
Its raingin at the moment, so havnt got the chance to do a trial fit.
But then, i've got the chance to tidy it all up and get everything prepared, and do one drop in and leave it there.
The size of the XA engine bay compared to the XF, wow!
Heaps of room to work around the engine!
I remember having to do a bit of tweaking on the hydra clutch on the old pre-xflow that was in the XA, climbed right in next to the engine and could have shut the bonnet if I wanted.
Found the tag on it, Borgy Forty it is!
I've got the external oil cooler off the XF to whack on it.
And, the lifespan of the BW40, well, I don't think its been treated very gently.
I sure as hell didnt, I expected to just ditch it once I got my use from it.
But having said that, it sure seemed pretty healthy!
Kickdown was good, changed gears smoothly, and almost chirps the tires if changing at 300-400rpm.
Might have been replaced...
And yeah, battery drills suck a hell of a lot, except for doing a screws, and drilling wood and plastic.
Its raingin at the moment, so havnt got the chance to do a trial fit.
But then, i've got the chance to tidy it all up and get everything prepared, and do one drop in and leave it there.
The size of the XA engine bay compared to the XF, wow!
Heaps of room to work around the engine!
I remember having to do a bit of tweaking on the hydra clutch on the old pre-xflow that was in the XA, climbed right in next to the engine and could have shut the bonnet if I wanted.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Quick update!
Rain or no, I put the engine in, everything lined up perfect, engine mounts, gerabox bolt holes...
Took about ten minutes max to drop it in.
When its a decent day for it, i'll put the driveshaft on, wire it up and hook it up to the xf fuel tank, see how it runs.
Might just run the lines out the bonnet to the back of the car and have the xf tank sitting in the back while I do some testing and tuning.
Rain or no, I put the engine in, everything lined up perfect, engine mounts, gerabox bolt holes...
Took about ten minutes max to drop it in.
When its a decent day for it, i'll put the driveshaft on, wire it up and hook it up to the xf fuel tank, see how it runs.
Might just run the lines out the bonnet to the back of the car and have the xf tank sitting in the back while I do some testing and tuning.
ZC-Cruiser
Well-known member
Got a fire extinguisher??LukeNukem":5otxrdkv said:
I'm inspired - off to drill that shifter thing off the floor of the XF and see where the hole needs to be in the ZD - maybe I'll jigsaw that out too
I'm planning to attach the XF bit to the ZD with Sikaflex and bolts - should hold it...
UPDATE!!!
Done the floor shifter mount install - pics:
A
Anonymous
Guest
Good shit, great to see us both making progress!
Wish I had a cam though, I've only got a cell phone cam.
I might see if i can borrow my ex's camera for a few days.
All I got left to do, is the mount the XF hump, hook up the driveshaft, do the wiring and the fuel lines.
Yeah I got a fire extinguisher.
Wish I had a cam though, I've only got a cell phone cam.
I might see if i can borrow my ex's camera for a few days.
All I got left to do, is the mount the XF hump, hook up the driveshaft, do the wiring and the fuel lines.
Yeah I got a fire extinguisher.
A
Anonymous
Guest
these two suckers arnt needed for EGR.
EGR supposedly only needs the sensor and solenoid.
Those two things are a TAB (thermactor air bypass) and TAD (thermactor air diverter).
You might also find this interesting:
http://www.kvitek.com/ford/
EGR supposedly only needs the sensor and solenoid.
Those two things are a TAB (thermactor air bypass) and TAD (thermactor air diverter).
You might also find this interesting:
http://www.kvitek.com/ford/
ZC-Cruiser
Well-known member
What I would like to know is what the three wires going to the fuel guage sender are for - the sender in the ZD tank has only one wire.
Maybe one of them is an earth since the tank is plastic, but I don't know.
The wiring diagram I hav just shows the sender as a box with 3 wires...
Maybe one of them is an earth since the tank is plastic, but I don't know.
The wiring diagram I hav just shows the sender as a box with 3 wires...
A
Anonymous
Guest
*Smartarse* I think they are for the sender!
Actualy, I think the sender needs power to operate, so, earth, power, signal.
Have you pulled the sender out?
You should only need one wire on that loom.
Actualy, I think the sender needs power to operate, so, earth, power, signal.
Have you pulled the sender out?
You should only need one wire on that loom.
ZC-Cruiser
Well-known member
Oh Yeah! - silly me!LukeNukem":17kolupz said:
Could beLukeNukem":17kolupz said:
Pulling the sender is my next step on this - after I do a bit more studying of the schematics.LukeNukem":17kolupz said:
I guess a little fiddling with a multimeter may show what I need to know.
I'd like to see a circuit diagram of the sender just the same...
A
Anonymous
Guest
Let me know how you get on dude.
Would be finishing up today, but its too what adults do-ing cold.
If I drink enough coffee, might get out there and mount the XF hump and shifter.
I'm trying to research converting to MAP instead MAS sensor. Know anything about that?
Would be finishing up today, but its too what adults do-ing cold.
If I drink enough coffee, might get out there and mount the XF hump and shifter.
I'm trying to research converting to MAP instead MAS sensor. Know anything about that?
ZC-Cruiser
Well-known member
What I've come up with is that the XF sender has a battery and earth input and it outputs between 0 and 4.5 volts depending on the fuel levelLukeNukem":3om0w4ts said:
The ZD sender is a rheostat that changes from 100 ohms to 13 ohms from empty to full
I need a gadget that will tahe the rheostat output and convert it into a voltage - should be pretty easy for a switched on technician to design a circuit - now, where to find a switched on technician...
No - what is MAS and why convert - does the EFI engine even use a MAP sensor??LukeNukem":3om0w4ts said:
I thought that was only the carb engines with EST.
(goes away to read the manual again...)
A
Anonymous
Guest
"I need a gadget that will tahe the rheostat output and convert it into a voltage - should be pretty easy for a switched on technician to design a circuit - now, where to find a switched on technician... "
Ok, I did a circuit like that to convert current to voltage so I could plug an electric piano into my soundcard, I'll see if I can find it.
Costed about 10 bucks to make.
The big box thingy is the MAS sensor isnt it?
I've read stuff about converting to MAP, but theres bugger all decent info on it.
Ok, I did a circuit like that to convert current to voltage so I could plug an electric piano into my soundcard, I'll see if I can find it.
Costed about 10 bucks to make.
The big box thingy is the MAS sensor isnt it?
I've read stuff about converting to MAP, but theres bugger all decent info on it.
A
Anonymous
Guest
the IC I used was QTC 4N35
How it works, if I remember correctly, was its light sensor based.
The Voltage signal would go through L, the Light, and the Sensor, would detect it and change current based on light strength.
I'll have to look it up again.
Need the opperating voltages and current output. Need to get the range right.
How it works, if I remember correctly, was its light sensor based.
Code:
+ -----| |---- +
L S
- -----| |---- -The Voltage signal would go through L, the Light, and the Sensor, would detect it and change current based on light strength.
I'll have to look it up again.
Need the opperating voltages and current output. Need to get the range right.
ZC-Cruiser
Well-known member
The ZD sender has resistance from 100 ohms empty to 13 ohms full
(It may go open circuit empty but I'm not sure if the float will move that far when installed)
The ZL sender outputs 0 volts empty to 4.5 volts full
An opto-coupler eh? - could be the go...
It'd be great if you had a circuit for this - I've asked one of your countrymen here for help but no reply as yet...
(It may go open circuit empty but I'm not sure if the float will move that far when installed)
The ZL sender outputs 0 volts empty to 4.5 volts full
An opto-coupler eh? - could be the go...
It'd be great if you had a circuit for this - I've asked one of your countrymen here for help but no reply as yet...
ZC-Cruiser
Well-known member
The big box is a Volume Air Flow (VAF) sensor (Vane Type)LukeNukem":1h1fvs8e said:
It also has a temperature sensor in there
The computer uses the two readings to work out how much oxygen is going in so it knows how much fuel is needed...
