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Anonymous
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where do i find an adapter or whatever? i have my dads 289 carb which is fine, and i want it on my 200. what would i have to do? its out of a 67 mustang so linkage should be about the same
Howdy Back:
The adaptor you need are still available from Clifford's Performance.
The linkage from a V8 cnassis and a six chassis are not the same. You will need to adapt linkage or convert to an cable system.
You will find that your stock '66 distributor is a Load-a-matic- Vacuum only and requires a carb with a Spark Control Valve (SCV) to function correctly. This is your opportunity to switch to a DuraSpark II electronic system.
Adios, David
The adaptor you need are still available from Clifford's Performance.
The linkage from a V8 cnassis and a six chassis are not the same. You will need to adapt linkage or convert to an cable system.
You will find that your stock '66 distributor is a Load-a-matic- Vacuum only and requires a carb with a Spark Control Valve (SCV) to function correctly. This is your opportunity to switch to a DuraSpark II electronic system.
Adios, David
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Anonymous
Guest
I avoided the two-into-one "Y" shaped carb adapters, reasoning that the 1v opening in the intake log would be a restriction. If you want to consider an alternative, you can have the log milled flat at the carb opening and have a second opening milled next to the existing carb opening, so as to fit the butterflies of a 2v carb. Take the 2v carb gasket, position it CORRECTLY and mark where to drill and tap two additional holes for mounting an adapter. For a carb adapter I used a Holley brand 1 inch phenolic 2v spacer. Cost me $55 mail order through summit. Drill 3 holes in it to line up with the mounting holes now in the log, countersink each hole deep enough to take an allan head bolt, then bolt on the adapter. Use bolts coming up from the inderside of the adapter to mount the carb. The carb can only mount one way in order to avoid the valve cover. There are linkage issues to resolve with this mounting. I am going to use a cable linkage and custom routing to get around this problem. With the 2v carb you have to change the air cleaner because of the larger diameter carb. Consider hood and other clearance issues when using a different air cleaner housing. For this reason, I will cut the bottom out of the stock housing and weld in a bottom section from a 289 housing. The "Y" style adapter is a lot easier to install and cheaper in terms of the mods necessary to get it all to work. Nevertheless, there is a real "gee whiz" factor going on with a direct bolt onto the log.
good luck
good luck
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Anonymous
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Roughly, how much would it cost for a good machine shop to direct mount?
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Anonymous
Guest
dont you have to take the head off to mill it for direct mount?
its either that or bee very careful...from what I have heard
its either that or bee very careful...from what I have heard
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Anonymous
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Anyone?
It'll depend on so many variables. Where you are - what the prevailing local prices are, how much prep work is required, how much set-up is needed on their part, and exactly what their brief is (what you want done).
I'd suggest: Allow 2 hours fees to strip, tank and sandblast the head.
A half hour to set-up the machine and head, and half hour to mill and clean up.
Beyond that will vary depending on whether building up by weld or bolting on a plate. At a guess, allow 2½ hours for weld/grind or one hour plus materials for an alloy plate.
Then a quick valve grind plus new freeze plugs (removed old ones for blasting passages). So, maybe 90 minutes there.
If you didn't know anyone in the biz, then you'd be up for 5½-7 hours at shop rates plus materials consumed. Hope this helps a little.
Regards, Adam.
I'd suggest: Allow 2 hours fees to strip, tank and sandblast the head.
A half hour to set-up the machine and head, and half hour to mill and clean up.
Beyond that will vary depending on whether building up by weld or bolting on a plate. At a guess, allow 2½ hours for weld/grind or one hour plus materials for an alloy plate.
Then a quick valve grind plus new freeze plugs (removed old ones for blasting passages). So, maybe 90 minutes there.
If you didn't know anyone in the biz, then you'd be up for 5½-7 hours at shop rates plus materials consumed. Hope this helps a little.
Regards, Adam.
Howdy All:
Adams right. Prices vary so much from place to place and how well you know the shop, and how much information you can bring to them.
For my first head, a D7 it was $180 to mill, 3 angle valve job, back-cut the intakes, weld in the port divider and mill it flat.
And another $150 to mill off the old carb pad creating a hole, and fabricating an aluminum adapter plate.
A gasket set was another $50.
That's here in SE Idaho. I have no idea what it will cost you in your locale.
Adios, David
Adams right. Prices vary so much from place to place and how well you know the shop, and how much information you can bring to them.
For my first head, a D7 it was $180 to mill, 3 angle valve job, back-cut the intakes, weld in the port divider and mill it flat.
And another $150 to mill off the old carb pad creating a hole, and fabricating an aluminum adapter plate.
A gasket set was another $50.
That's here in SE Idaho. I have no idea what it will cost you in your locale.
Adios, David
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Anonymous
Guest
Thank you Adam and David.
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Anonymous
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Kriek":3epj2s96 said:
Cost me $25 for milling flat only. No other services. All holes done by me.
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