2v adapter questions

edgewood bronco

Well-known member
In looking into a 2v adapter that bolts directly to the log (like the Classic Inlines one: FSP-200-2VC-A), I'm wondering what levels the carburetor? Is that adapter wedge-shaped, or is it flat?
Also, a phenolic spacer is offered. Does anybody have any opinions on whether or not they are necessary?
Thanks!
 
Howdy EB:

The CI adapter is flat. The angle is on the top edge of the carb mounting surface.

The phenolic spacer acts as an insulator/isolater. It slows the heat transfer into the carb. While not necessary I'd opt for it.

Hope that helps.

adios, David
 
CZLN6":1n9pww58 said:
Howdy EB:

The CI adapter is flat. The angle is on the top edge of the carb mounting surface.

The phenolic spacer acts as an insulator/isolater. It slows the heat transfer into the carb. While not necessary I'd opt for it.

Hope that helps.

adios, David

there again, top advice. i would also recommend the phenolic spacer.
 
Thanks, fellas.
So when I machine the head (or rather, have it machined) to accommodate the adapter, what compensates for the angle and sets the carb level? Do I have to have the mounting surface machined flat, in which case it'll bite pretty deeply into the manifold on one end? I feel like I'm not understanding something... Or am I making a mountain out of a mole hill here?
Thanks!
 
edgewood bronco":18px16ov said:
Thanks, fellas.
So when I machine the head (or rather, have it machined) to accommodate the adapter, what compensates for the angle and sets the carb level? Do I have to have the mounting surface machined flat, in which case it'll bite pretty deeply into the manifold on one end? I feel like I'm not understanding something... Or am I making a mountain out of a mole hill here?
Thanks!

mountain out of molehill. just have the intake machined so that it is level, the carb angle isnt going to be enough to cause any problems.
 
I don't know if this is related to your question but some off road drivers select specific carbs so there is no fuel starvation on the gradients. My thoughts, as all ways, go to final application plans.
 
That's a good point, Chad. What type of carb setup will eliminate that? Just curious
I'm not particularly concerned about that in this case, this will be a mildly-used stock suspension '66. No rock crawling, just cruising the byways and forest roads of the southwest.
I'm going for extra power - it's a dog now - and am also hoping for better fuel economy, although I'm getting about 16 and am pleased with that... That's what my buddy's Tacoma gets. Granted, he gets it going 75 mph...
 
Whoever machines it can just square the head parallel to the existing carb boss plane on the head, that way it will be in the same relationship as the original carb after machining if your that concerned about it.
 
Hey! EB has an EB (was that deliberate?)

"...What type of carb setup will eliminate that?..."
Boy, that's a good one (outside of fuel inj). May B it's just for those who use the 4V in the bent 8s? I've seen discussion of problems... never bout the adaptor tho.
I have an inclinometer (sp.?) I got offa the doghouse on the Catilina (27 ft sloop) to watch as I go over the gradients round here. Jus a lill ball in a curved clear tube w/lines of demarcation (left and right only). The carter YF never has problems. Wonder if the RBS would? Can you say if the hills you'd travel would be over 30* (left to right or front to back)?
May B others w/the knowledge will chime in...
 
stanyon":2i4bokml said:
http://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t39465-200-log-milling

The above shows what I did for the 2V conversion on my 200, it really is easier then it looks
How did you ensure the cut was level?
 
ASA; I just followed the top of the log, using it as a guide, the piece that came off the top was really close to being uniform in thickness. After the cut I used a mill file to dress down the exposed surface to get as close as possible to a true flat surface.
 
Nice. I have an internship with a fabrication shop this summer, I was going to see if I could use one of the older machines, but it'd be nice to get it down to a flattish surface to start though.
 
Hey Asa,

I see we're both in Florida, and I've been looking for a good fab shop for some time, I don't suppose I could get the name of the place from you could I?

Thanks
Nick
 
Let me run it by the owners first. I was planning on using an older machine that they don't really use and my own time to do this. They do a lot of high-end prototype work, and these days rarely do walk-in stuff.
I"ll see if they know some other decent shops that might be interested though. PM me with more info about what you're looking to do and I'll see what can be done.
 
Yeah, Chad. No coincidence I have an EB... Not good at coming up with clever handles on sites like this.

I never thought of trying the head milling with a hand-held grinder. Might just have to, although now that I've got 8 hours into porting the head, I'm not sure I want to risk boogering it, although I suppose the machine shop could just as easily booger it with a bit more sophisticated equipment...

Stanyon, what size disc did you use to cut that off? How did you enlarge the hole? Does JB weld work to fill any gaps, or should I have it welded/braised?

Speaking of that, is there anybody in the Albuquerque area who can recommend a good machine shop? I've not committed to one yet...
 
Stanyon,

Did you use any metal putty? And if so, what kind did you use and how long has it been holding up or has it been?


Boedy
 
Edgewood I used a 10' wheel and started on the rear left side, this way it pulled the Makita away from me just in case it bound up, I then Tapped the log to accept the adapter plate I had made. Before you drill and tap into the log, feel underneath to make sure you have enough metal to tap into. These holes don't have to be square to each other as you can see mine aren't. Then I covered the milled off portion with Blue masking tape and traced the opening off the adapter plate, took my $10.00 Harbor Freight die grinder and a stone and proceeded to open it up. Again it is not a difficult task, I am not a machinest or am I particularly gifted, just stubborn. By using the top of the log as your cut line you should be fine. My head is a 78, if you went with the later diagonal log head you will need to use a filler of so me sort.
 
nickstewartroc":3nnfj0ll said:
Hey Asa,

I see we're both in Florida, and I've been looking for a good fab shop for some time, I don't suppose I could get the name of the place from you could I?

Thanks
Nick
Nick
The guys here recommended Regional Performance Machine in Haines City, however they weren't able to vouch for what their capabilities or quality is. If you want, I can ask around near me (Brandon/Tampa area) and see if I can find someone with a solid reputation.

Evan
 
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