2v head

[Anonymous]

I have just recently purchsed a 2v head and would like to know will this bolt straight up to my 221 and if so I'am about to get the head rebuilt what sort of work should I get done to it to give good relaiable power, It will be a daily driver though.

 

[addo]

If you're on a budget for this one, just reseat the valves, and maybe bronze guides. You'll need extractors, as the cast exhaust is not a bolt-up.

Porting and polishing is not really going to be of much use if no cam change is intended. The only "maybe" is to cc each head, and skim the 2V to equal the 221. I like to dress the rocker faces with an oilstone to a nice new smooth curve.

Then, if your timing set is ancient, fit a new JP or Rollmaster one. Also, fit an XD or XE electronic distributor. This requires a little skill and a slight mod (drill and tap one hole in the block).

All of these mods will give decent power and adjustability. Stick with the factory Stromberg carb unless you can afford to dyno tune a Holley. You can get a manual choke conversion for the Strommies.

Was this the head (engine) that went cheap last week or so in the Trading Post?

Cheers, Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

No,I've had the head for a while,It came with a 350 holley but the bloke had grinded the choke of it,It also came with extractors but I already had extractors on my 221 and the two seem identical so I'll just use my ones and get a 2 qtr or 2 half inch exhaust.I've also fitted an XD/XE elec dizzy etc,but I didnt drill a hole in the block what is this for, thanks.

 

[addo]

I found the need for the hole in the block was to relocate the hold-down clamp. The large tab on the electronic unit has to be reduced a little in size, and the hold-down had to be moved to clear the underside of the distributor body itself. Easiest solution (found the hard way, of course :roll: ) was to drill a new 5/16 UNC hole and tap it.

How'd you fit yours in?

 

[Anonymous]

As you probably had too,I had to grind down the circumfrence so that it wasn't hitting the block and yes it was a very tight fit where the hold down clamp is but it holds just like original a litle hard to do up because you cant get a good grip on the nut ,but eventually you get there,and all's good,I have heard that the drive shaft is 20 thou smaller than the original and this drives off the oil pump and can wobbel around in the block and snap, but I measured the drive (inside) that goes right onto the oil pump and they are identical so I dont know if this is true but I know heaps of blokes that have done this elec ignition swap and most off the guy's that race in speedway do this ,so I dont see it being a proplem.Now that I think back I also grinded the head of the nut so it fit's under the body,I think this is what you were referring to sorry to get a bit of track in this thread.

 

[addo]

That's exactly it! When I looked back after the first time I installed one, I realised drilling and tapping was easier and going to make it more serviceable in a hurry. There's plenty of meat nearby to move the hole 12mm or so.

I might have to put up a sketch for this one. It's a very useful mod.

Cheers, Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

i used a ex dizzy when i was runing the carby set up on my s/charged ..turbo charged 221...and ground down the lug of the side for lock bolt..and made a sleeve up to make the differance on the end of dizzy drive to block..i tried it to start with and dizzy cross fires inrevs..so i used a sleeve..now that i have gone to efi ,i used a hall effect dizzy out of xf efi cross flow and placed a sleeve on it as well.(loctite does the trick.)

cheers Rod