Has anyone here megasquirted a 300 Ford by any chance? I am looking for an MSQ to play with. I'm not that great at tuning, but I'm learning. Just need a closer starting point than the settings that came with my MS2. I would have to make changes, but something from a stock 300, 302 Ford or Chevy 305 would get me pretty close I think. Thanks!
300 Megasquirt
- Thread starter 84FordVan
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Emerald 74 4X4
Well-known member
Yes I did, but unfortunately my old *.msq file is gone due to me upgrading my Megatune and deleting all the old stuff. Since my engine is completely different anyways right now, I decided to start from scratch again.
Best thing I can suggest is to get it to start and idle well. Get the cranking pulsewidth and warmup enrichments right. Then take it for an easy drive (with someone else, one driving one on computer) and monitor your VE table in "tuning" mode. Play with the VE table values until you get a good seat of your pants feel as far as power and torque. Then test another area of the VE table. You have idle, cruise, acceleration, and WOT. The more you play with it the better youll feel the changes take place as you drive it. Just be careful not to run too lean. If anything, run it rich and tune it from rich to leaner until you get a desirable power to fuel efficiency.
Make sure your timing and all other engine components are up to par. You don't need to be tuning for compensation of malfunctioning equipment.
Best thing I can suggest is to get it to start and idle well. Get the cranking pulsewidth and warmup enrichments right. Then take it for an easy drive (with someone else, one driving one on computer) and monitor your VE table in "tuning" mode. Play with the VE table values until you get a good seat of your pants feel as far as power and torque. Then test another area of the VE table. You have idle, cruise, acceleration, and WOT. The more you play with it the better youll feel the changes take place as you drive it. Just be careful not to run too lean. If anything, run it rich and tune it from rich to leaner until you get a desirable power to fuel efficiency.
Make sure your timing and all other engine components are up to par. You don't need to be tuning for compensation of malfunctioning equipment.
Hey Emerald, I'm not mistaken that you're six is boosted, right? I want to turbo my new engine build. Only going to try to run a max of 7PSI, as my engine will have 8.4:1 and hypereutectic pistons. I am planning on beginning construction in late Feb/ early March. Any ideas for things like an appropriately sized turbo, manifold, wastegate? I pretty much got my engine figured out, just need help on the turbo components. So you know, I will intercool it, too. I found a turbo on ebay from a 4.5l John Deere, might work with an appropriate wastegate, haven't bought it yet. Do you have any pics of yours? Thanks in advance!
Emerald 74 4X4
Well-known member
I do have some pics here:
http://s21.photobucket.com/home/adamtheman16/index
You'll see a stainless header that I started to fab up in there. I am not using that right now as it needs more work to fit the intake manifold correctly.
What you need to do is size your turbo based on the amount of horsepower and the application you are going for. I shot for about 300 to 350 HP. I chose a T04B Garrett 60 compressor, 82 turbine. As of now I adapted a set of EFI exhaust manifolds to a turbo collector and I'm running a Turbonetics Evolution wastegate off the original EGR port on the rear manifold. I haven't gotten to drive it and tune it to see how it performs, so I can't tell you what Iv'e done wrong or right yet. Im running an intercooler with an HKS blowoff (vacuum actuated, not pressure actuated).
Look through this forum and online for selecting a turbocharger. There is alot of information out there. Corky Bell's Maximum Boost is also a very good book to get you to understand the basics of turbocharging. I haven't read it yet, but another written by Jay K. Miller I glanced at the other day looked like a good one.
http://www.turbofast.com has some good info
http://www.gnttype.org has alot of info. It's a Grand National site, but its all the same info.
http://s21.photobucket.com/home/adamtheman16/index
You'll see a stainless header that I started to fab up in there. I am not using that right now as it needs more work to fit the intake manifold correctly.
What you need to do is size your turbo based on the amount of horsepower and the application you are going for. I shot for about 300 to 350 HP. I chose a T04B Garrett 60 compressor, 82 turbine. As of now I adapted a set of EFI exhaust manifolds to a turbo collector and I'm running a Turbonetics Evolution wastegate off the original EGR port on the rear manifold. I haven't gotten to drive it and tune it to see how it performs, so I can't tell you what Iv'e done wrong or right yet. Im running an intercooler with an HKS blowoff (vacuum actuated, not pressure actuated).
Look through this forum and online for selecting a turbocharger. There is alot of information out there. Corky Bell's Maximum Boost is also a very good book to get you to understand the basics of turbocharging. I haven't read it yet, but another written by Jay K. Miller I glanced at the other day looked like a good one.
http://www.turbofast.com has some good info
http://www.gnttype.org has alot of info. It's a Grand National site, but its all the same info.
I decided awhile ago to get a turbo book from Barnes and Noble. It was an SA Design book, covered pretty much everything on turbos, I've read it cover to cover. It's a very good book. I like your idea of the EFI manifold setup. Looks like it would work pretty good. Thanks for the link to the pics, looks like a pretty cool header. Too much welding for me, lol.
Emerald 74 4X4, your turbo installation looks great. The T04 specs you listed are virtually the same as the late Ak Miller had evaluated & recommended as best for a single-turbo street performance 300BB6. I'll be interested to hear how your whole combo performs once it's on the street (and dyno?).
(Side note: In '95 or '96 Ak bought a new Ford F150 with 300" BB6, and utilizing the EFI exhaust manifolds, converted it to a dual turbocharger propane/gasoline intake system. He described it to me as a very quick vehicle; regretfully I did not ask to see it. Damn, life goes by too fast.)
(Side note: In '95 or '96 Ak bought a new Ford F150 with 300" BB6, and utilizing the EFI exhaust manifolds, converted it to a dual turbocharger propane/gasoline intake system. He described it to me as a very quick vehicle; regretfully I did not ask to see it. Damn, life goes by too fast.)
Emerald 74 4X4
Well-known member
Right now I am running the Crane 284/272 duration cam. When I selected this cam, I neglected to realize it probably wasn't the best for a turbo application. This was 4 years ago when I was a little less learned on cams. I am going to run it anyways and see what happens. It was not an expensive cam, so I'm not too worried about having to buy another and change it out if I need to.
Other than that, I'm running ARP head studs with a high performance felpro head gasket. A carb head with adjustable 3/8 rocker studs, Harland Sharp roller rockers, 1.94/1.60 valves with a mild porting. ARP rod bolts.
I'm wondering if I should run ARP main studs. I know the 300 has a pretty decent lower end. So I figured the rod bolts would be a weaker point than the main bolts. But I could be wrong. It wouldn't be too hard for me to install some if I felt it needed it. i might post a thread on it or search in here for recommendations now that I think about it.
Only other thing is I used is a set of heavy truck 7.2:1 compression hypereutectic pistons.
Other than that, I'm running ARP head studs with a high performance felpro head gasket. A carb head with adjustable 3/8 rocker studs, Harland Sharp roller rockers, 1.94/1.60 valves with a mild porting. ARP rod bolts.
I'm wondering if I should run ARP main studs. I know the 300 has a pretty decent lower end. So I figured the rod bolts would be a weaker point than the main bolts. But I could be wrong. It wouldn't be too hard for me to install some if I felt it needed it. i might post a thread on it or search in here for recommendations now that I think about it.
Only other thing is I used is a set of heavy truck 7.2:1 compression hypereutectic pistons.
Emerald 74 4X4
Well-known member
Nope, I'm using the version 1 board with the MSII daughtercard. I haven't seen the EEC-IV board in person.
Got an update! Put the adapter board together and got the van tuned real nice. This Megasquirt is amazing! Figuring out the VE table was a bit tricky at first, but I got it close and thankfully Tuner Studio has an autotune feature. Turned out to be a pretty handy thing.
Glad to hear someone is having good luck with the megasquirt.
I am still struggling with my megasquirt. I also have the ECC IV daughter board. I have gone as far to put a scope on the injector with the factory ECU pluged in and measure the pulse width at idle, and then matched it perfectly with the Megasquirt, so I know fuel is not the problem. I have measured spark timing that checks out ok. Pulled a plug to measure spark intensity, and that is good and hot. The engine will start on the megasquirt and idle rough, and if you push on the accelerator at all it loads up and dies....
I am starting to wonder if there is something emisions related that is causing my problem. Any thoughts??
88 Ford 150
300 I6
TFI inj
Any thoughts?
I am still struggling with my megasquirt. I also have the ECC IV daughter board. I have gone as far to put a scope on the injector with the factory ECU pluged in and measure the pulse width at idle, and then matched it perfectly with the Megasquirt, so I know fuel is not the problem. I have measured spark timing that checks out ok. Pulled a plug to measure spark intensity, and that is good and hot. The engine will start on the megasquirt and idle rough, and if you push on the accelerator at all it loads up and dies....
I am starting to wonder if there is something emisions related that is causing my problem. Any thoughts??
88 Ford 150
300 I6
TFI inj
Any thoughts?
I have not dataloged it, but I can.
I just have the factory O2 sensor in right now.
I have not been running the without the spout connector in, so It would be running 10 degrees BTDC, and I also checked that with timing light.
Engine is bone stock.
I have backed the fuel off until I could not start it, and turning it way up to idling pig rich with the same result either way.
I also tried spraying starting fuild in the throttle body while opening it. Lots of poping and sputtering but but still will not go over 1500 RPM.
Makes me think it is not fuel related.
This model year has a surp driven air pump that blows air into the head, right after the exhuast valve for emisions. When I have the megasquirt plugged in. It leaks around the fittings where they go into the head. Its leaking combusion byproducts h2o ete. It is actually spraying out around the fittings with each exhaust stoke. When I have the stock ECU plugged in they are dry. Seems like I am building a lot of exhaust backpressure when attempting to use the Megasquirt.
I just have the factory O2 sensor in right now.
I have not been running the without the spout connector in, so It would be running 10 degrees BTDC, and I also checked that with timing light.
Engine is bone stock.
I have backed the fuel off until I could not start it, and turning it way up to idling pig rich with the same result either way.
I also tried spraying starting fuild in the throttle body while opening it. Lots of poping and sputtering but but still will not go over 1500 RPM.
Makes me think it is not fuel related.
This model year has a surp driven air pump that blows air into the head, right after the exhuast valve for emisions. When I have the megasquirt plugged in. It leaks around the fittings where they go into the head. Its leaking combusion byproducts h2o ete. It is actually spraying out around the fittings with each exhaust stoke. When I have the stock ECU plugged in they are dry. Seems like I am building a lot of exhaust backpressure when attempting to use the Megasquirt.
Thats a perplexing situation with the exhaust system. the air injection was fed with a few vacuum valves on my engine, I disconnected that stuff and let the pump push air into the atmosphere as soon as I did the conversion.
Wondering if the volume the pump is trying to displace is not being regulated correctly and somehow creating an issue? Thats a huge amount of pressure to come up around those things. The nut around the injection tube compresses the tapered end of the injection tube into the head. It should not leak at all.
Mine did not leak after removing the fresh air hose from the air injection rail. It has a check valve where it meets the rubber hose.
Lets try to figure out the exhaust leak thing that shows up only with MS. That may be the issue!
Wondering if the volume the pump is trying to displace is not being regulated correctly and somehow creating an issue? Thats a huge amount of pressure to come up around those things. The nut around the injection tube compresses the tapered end of the injection tube into the head. It should not leak at all.
Mine did not leak after removing the fresh air hose from the air injection rail. It has a check valve where it meets the rubber hose.
Lets try to figure out the exhaust leak thing that shows up only with MS. That may be the issue!
Austin
Well-known member
thanks for sharing the pictures i wanna give my 300 a little boost and i was looking for pics of a custom exhaust mani and that helps a lot 8)Emerald 74 4X4":3ruq4qb5 said:
nice choice on the blow off valve i have one on my probe it holds boost 10000X better than my stock one
Emerald 74 4X4
Well-known member
Yeah, definitely doesn't leak, but the sound it makes on my truck is weird. Under throttle closure with manifold pressure over 10"Hg, it opens an closes rapidly, but under boost with throttle closure, it make a "woop woop woop woop woop woop" sound like the Three Stooges. It doesn't hepl that my vacuum brake booster leaks, so I think there is pressure oscillating into the booster diaphragm.
Update I figured it out. Injector bank #2 was staying on all the time. Diode d20 installed backwards. When I had the scope hooked up, I had it hooked to injector bank 1, and I suppose it was idling off the 3 cylinders hooked to bank 1. Now I just need to get the fuel map done. Anyone have a good file for a factory setup? What is everyone using for required fuel ms?JonL":30awdxsi said:
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