Build Thread Pre 1996 EEC-IV EFI MAP Tuning Discussion - QuarterHorse & TunerPro RT
- Thread starter fofaster
- Start date
fofaster
Well-known member
Awesome I think I am close to getting ready to tune air (idle air/dashpot) and spark now.
Here is the tune I am running on my stock motor with emissions deleted timed to I believe I set it to 12 BTDC. Down shifting and coasting sound great with this current VE table and Flowmaster40
Here the latest tune that I am working with.
Here is the tune I am running on my stock motor with emissions deleted timed to I believe I set it to 12 BTDC. Down shifting and coasting sound great with this current VE table and Flowmaster40
Here the latest tune that I am working with.
fofaster
Well-known member
Which spark tables should I be looking at? I assume this is the primary spark table?
I lost my timing light so I'll have to go snag my buddies tomorrow.
fofaster
Well-known member
I cruise around in ethanol free 87 and when I haul things I switch to my back tank with 93 premium
I have the amazon 4-row and I'm on the second one that is leaking as well.
I run this on e85. It's not even funny how much this engine is knock limited. You can try this on 93 but you may have to pull a bit out if she starts pinging. I also added 4 degrees across the board on the MPG spark table. Make sure you set base timing back to 10 first.
I run this on e85. It's not even funny how much this engine is knock limited. You can try this on 93 but you may have to pull a bit out if she starts pinging. I also added 4 degrees across the board on the MPG spark table. Make sure you set base timing back to 10 first.
fofaster
Well-known member
Awesome, thanks again efloth. Going to get a new radiator, powersteering and a bunch of cool interior stuff installed in the next coming weeks. Thanks for all the guidance, I truly would still be trying to get the dashboard to work if you hadn't responded. I'll let you know when I am ready to start playing around with dashpot and idle air.
I may end up going this route on the radiator, you know buy once cry once type deal? Bout as close as you can get to an old school radiator that isn't held together with epoxy and plastic.
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fofaster
Well-known member
Okay I got a new AutoZone Duralast 2 row in the truck for the time being. Seems to be running a little hotter at idle, but I didn't flush the system tbh. I'll probably be replacing this entire coolant system soon so for now, a Band-Aid.
I haven't had a chance to reset timing yet. Might have to bite the bullet and buy another light because my buddy doesn't know where his is, go figure. I want to do the spark and dashpot tuning this weekend though so I will probably head to Harbor Freight in the morning to grab a new one.
I got some new interior pieces this week. Unfortunately, the new dashpad is red and the interior is burgundy! I think I am going to take everything out and spray it all with SEM 15063 burgundy color coat.
New cluster installed with a tachometer and LED's and a new OEM radio with BT added. I need to get a new harness for the radio though, the PO installed a aftermarket radio and absolutely butchered the wiring.
New window handles come tomorrow. Next up on the list is window tint, new vinyl or rhino mat floors, bench reupholster and a windshield.
Pretty sure the ABS light has to do with the fact that when I brake the right side pulls hard. I think the front left brake is stuck open.
I haven't had a chance to reset timing yet. Might have to bite the bullet and buy another light because my buddy doesn't know where his is, go figure. I want to do the spark and dashpot tuning this weekend though so I will probably head to Harbor Freight in the morning to grab a new one.
I got some new interior pieces this week. Unfortunately, the new dashpad is red and the interior is burgundy! I think I am going to take everything out and spray it all with SEM 15063 burgundy color coat.
New cluster installed with a tachometer and LED's and a new OEM radio with BT added. I need to get a new harness for the radio though, the PO installed a aftermarket radio and absolutely butchered the wiring.
New window handles come tomorrow. Next up on the list is window tint, new vinyl or rhino mat floors, bench reupholster and a windshield.
Pretty sure the ABS light has to do with the fact that when I brake the right side pulls hard. I think the front left brake is stuck open.
Rmoore45
Well-known member
This is some great information! I always thought that tuning the stock ECM
These trucks have ABS on the rear only. They use the same speed sensor that the speedometer uses which reads from the tone ring on the rear end.
This thread has opened my eyes to tuning the ECM on my '95. Definitely something I'll be doing in the future!
Where did you get the OEM style radio with bluetooth?
These trucks have ABS on the rear only. They use the same speed sensor that the speedometer uses which reads from the tone ring on the rear end.
This thread has opened my eyes to tuning the ECM on my '95. Definitely something I'll be doing in the future!
Where did you get the OEM style radio with bluetooth?
fofaster
Well-known member
Hmm, well when I do my entire brake system in the next couple weeks and hoping that will make the light go out. I recently replaced the VSS on the rear diff and it made my speedometer work again.
Radio is from classic2current.net or on any of the OBS Facebook groups the guy's name is Todd Lane, id recommend finding him and messaging him directly.
I'm hoping that by then end of this learning process I will have an improved strategy over the OEM one for people that want to stay NA and remove emissions equipment. I'd say we are headed straight for accomplishing that and going to be learning how to account to more manifold pressure in the ECM for boosted applications.
Just went for another little fuel and spark tune, this is what I am currently running for VE and this is my spark table. I went ahead and just nudged my distributor a bit clockwise so it should be pretty close to 10 BTDC based on tone, until I have time to actually verify it with a light. I'll bet I'm pretty damn close.
I also tested the speed governor flag by setting it to 70mph and I can confirm this does function as one would expect.
Assuming the computer is reading the RPM's correctly, I noticed that this tachometer is not very accurate after 2.2kish. It just becomes more and more inaccurate the higher you climb. At 4k on the tach the computer is reading about 3500-3600 RPM's. Not sure if I can adjust for this but if I can, then theoretically that would mean I should be able to hack a diesel 4.5k tachometer to work with this cluster.
fofaster
Well-known member
Alright, this morning I followed these steps and starting tuning the idle air stop.
TO PERFORM A BASE IDLE RESET
Once the engine reaches a warm non-surging idle, unplug the TPS, IAC, and SPOUT connectors.
If the engine stalls, you will need to OPEN the throttle body stop-screw to give the engine enough airflow to idle. Plug all the connectors back in, open the throttle stop and try again when it reaches a stable idle ~at least 3 minutes of run time.
With the TPS, IAC, and SPOUT unplugged, adjust the throttle body stop set-screw to reach the MINIMUM rpm the engine will idle. Then shut off the engine and (make sure key is in the full off position) plug in/reconnect the IAC, TPS, and SPOUT connectors. Fire the engine back up and allow a few drive cycles for the ecu to adaptives to adjust to the new idle position correctly.
This worked well I think, I’m going to start dialing in the idle air today and then hopefully get to dashpot tomorrow. Frankly, I don’t understand dashpot yet, I’m still reading and trying to understand the concepts so I can apply. Basically I think it’s how does the engine behave when coming off throttle.
This morning when I started the truck it almost didn’t start and had a couple idle surges (2 maybe 3) before it caught an idle and evened out.
TO PERFORM A BASE IDLE RESET
Once the engine reaches a warm non-surging idle, unplug the TPS, IAC, and SPOUT connectors.
If the engine stalls, you will need to OPEN the throttle body stop-screw to give the engine enough airflow to idle. Plug all the connectors back in, open the throttle stop and try again when it reaches a stable idle ~at least 3 minutes of run time.
With the TPS, IAC, and SPOUT unplugged, adjust the throttle body stop set-screw to reach the MINIMUM rpm the engine will idle. Then shut off the engine and (make sure key is in the full off position) plug in/reconnect the IAC, TPS, and SPOUT connectors. Fire the engine back up and allow a few drive cycles for the ecu to adaptives to adjust to the new idle position correctly.
This worked well I think, I’m going to start dialing in the idle air today and then hopefully get to dashpot tomorrow. Frankly, I don’t understand dashpot yet, I’m still reading and trying to understand the concepts so I can apply. Basically I think it’s how does the engine behave when coming off throttle.
This morning when I started the truck it almost didn’t start and had a couple idle surges (2 maybe 3) before it caught an idle and evened out.
The engine is stock. You shouldn't really have to change much. Now that you've changed the airflow, you need to reset the keep alive memory. You can unplug the battery overnight or upload an incompatible tune like a1c with key on engine off. One the fuel pump primes again just re upload your tune and off you go.
A really green question. If you scrub the ecu do you lose the factory pass/no pass parameters that watch for a failing/failed sensor; like tps out of range?
fofaster
Well-known member
I ran a ECM test earlier today and was met with the GLORIOUS code 111 SYSTEM PASS I can’t even begin to express how good that felt hahaha!
I found a rebuilt HD long block that came from an airport. Going to get it tomorrow!
I was referring to the ability to know when to set a code for a sensor that isn't operating within its acceptable range. Like if the TPS still passes a snap test but now it reads at a low, at idle range because the adjustment of throttle blades has it reading that way. Would it set a code?
Nice! I see there are no exhaust rotators! Is that a broken stud in the head?
