if its a bent8 geta bent 8 shroud, etc. 2X^^^ hod.'s got the story 100 times !
So let's update everyone on the progresggggs..... "OR LACK THEREOF"
-Got a Dual V Type alternator Pulley
-Added an idler Pulley from a 78 bronco
-New Belt Routed: Crank - Water Pump - Idler Pulley - Alternator Pulley - A/C - Back
-No More Slipping Belt
-Fitted the HEI Vacuum Line to the proper Line on the Sniper EFI (definitely smoothed out the idle and actually helped with the temp a bit)
-Finally got a shroud AND doesn't fit new radiator.
-Ordered some self supporting hinges to replace the stock ones and remove the hood rod & support flanges.
#1- modifying the radiator brackets and fitting for the shroud along with sealing the gaps at top and bottom of shroud (due to the height of new rad)
#2- use the old radiator that perfectly fits the shroud and hope that the fin bond is solid enough for the cooling to occur (at least I can test the benefit of adding the shroud)
**Both #1 & #2 will benefit from the hinges and allow the radiator to sit deeper into the core support opening without hitting the hood rod flange anymore.
#3 Order a $700 US Radiator 3 Row High Efficiency with Triple Flow radiator that is stock dimension (other than being 2" thick, instead of 1⅜" 2 row thickness) and wait the 5 weeks to test out that option and see if the longer coolant travel with help with heat disappation.
#4- Rip off the 1963 170 head that is on my 200 block and replace it with a 1973 200 large log head that I have laying on the workbench. Hopefully this will change a bit of the compression and the heat associated with it. (check/clean the coolant passages and inspect for damage)
#5- Start my 250-2v Head/200 Block performance build earlier than I want to and get read to swap the entire drive train. I mean everything. 250-2v/200 + C4 + 8in Rear. And then order the High Efficiency Triple Flow rad to help support the change in performance. (Don't really want to start an $8k-$10k project right now, but what the tradeoff of continuing the little $100-$500 projects here and there that keep adding up)
Man I love this car but I am so lost. All I want to do is rip the canyons on the way to the beach and not worry about overheating on the way back up over the hill.
@bubba22349 @chad @Stubby @xctasy @drag-200stang @StarDiero75
My head is spinning with all of this info.The 1964 to 1966 Green Dot C4's have a few problems that need some work for any performance type use and the amount of power the engine will have. The Main weak points of all the 1964 to 1969 C4's is the smaller input shaft which is .788 diameter with a 24 X 24 spline. and its matching 24 spline torque converter (also they are not a good stall speed for performance use).
All higher performance type C4's need to use the larger and stronger input shaft that was standard in 1970 this was a one year only input shaft that is a bigger size of .839 with a 26 X 26 spline shaft with its own one year only front drum unit. In the 1971 to 1982 C4's the input shafts were changed again they are the same .839 diameter shaft but with a 26 X 24 spline these are the best of the factory Ford parts, the even stronger aftermarket input shafts are also made to these same dimensions and a 26 X 24 spline count, these would require one of the matching 1970 up Torque Convertors with a 26 Spline, and the front drum (1970 only 26 Spline) or better still the 1971 to 1982 24 Spline, basically everthing from the front durm forward to the torque Convertor needs to be from the 1971 up C4 transmissions
The early C4 cases were then changed along with a Third type valve body in the 1970 up C4's. The 1964 to 1966 valve body is the worse one to use for any type of performance use even if you use one of the TransGo shift kits in it. The best fix for the these early C4 Trans cases is to get hold of a 1967 to 1969 Select Shift Valve body these are much better and greatly improve the shifts they are only other valve body that will fit into the early 1964 to 1969 C4 cases.
If you plan to use the 1965 to 1966 Duel Range Valve Body you can use the TransGo #SKU 45-01 Reprograming Kit for some performance use or a # SKU 4L Shift Kit for regular street use.
With the better 1967 to 1969 Select Shift Valve Body you use the TransGo #SKU 47-01 Reprograming Kit for best performance use or a # SKU 4S Shift Kit for regular street use.
If your going to replace the front durm than you should look for a 1971 up V8 (302) drum that comes with more clutches to start with they can be reworked so that it has at least 5 clutches with the right aftermarket parts 6 clutches are possible probally not needed for you build. Also use the V8 rear drum so it has more clutches too. The Stock Ford Band is good one to use. For a Servo cover you can look for the A, R, or S, Covers and Pistons. You will need a Auxilere Trans cooler too. You can get a custom built torque convertor with a higher stall from severial places in the 1800 to 2200 RPM depending on the cam you choose to use. There is quite a lot to building up a performance C4. Best of luck
15 yrs was the rebuild. Yes since thenRunning out of useful ideas, this has been happening since the rebuild 5 years ago, yes/no???
Did you use a IR temp gun to check the top header tank temp vs the bottom tank temp. That would tell you that radiator is/isn't cooling.
Did you ever remove the aux fans to see if they were blocking air flow??
Did you ever just remove the thermostat and see what happens.
Did you ever try an aux cooler for the trans, just to reduce the heat load on the radiator?
You are correct. I have never let the car get to the point of no return. The concern is real with Temps like this and it not even being 100°+ outside. I know of guys in Arizona desert with highs of 115° that don't have the same issues as me. So I am cautiously approaching this issues as not to cause permanent damage and end up having to spend thousands more with months of down time. I think you can understand that and relate when it comes to cars that have sentimental value as well.I think its more abt concern than data...
"...Cooling System Dx?..."
back to post #25
There are abt a doz things U can wrk with to effect running temps. The big one - proper tune.
Here's the areas:
- leaks in system; air in system
- correct shroud (fan 1/2 in/1/2 out unless 'flex', that = 3/4 in)
- coolant - mix, additives, age, cleanliness;
- water pump - operation, condition; cavitation;
- heater core - leaks, condition, it’s fan on/off;
- block - water passages;
- hoses - collapse, leaks;
- thermostat - condition, temp rating;
- radiator (sz, # rows, clean?, construction, materials - I like ol style copper)
- radiator cap - pressure rating, condition, design;
- fan (blades, design, clutch)
- flush system last yr. or 2?
My question to all of you, how have you installed a c4 with proper linkage to keep the column shift and have the right selectors. What linkage kit was used, what fab was necessary, how was the kick down set up?
Any and all help greatly appreciated!