Got it and thanks! I will do some digging or see if someone chimes in that knows this carb setup
All Small Six 66' 200 automatic dies when I press the gas pedal
- Thread starter gserafini
- Start date
This relates to all small sixes
It should just be the standard Autolite 1100 with spark control valve. Bought rebuilt from Summit
TrickSix
Famous Member
Yes, there is an adjustment for the accelerator pump. The lever on the cover has a couple little holes in it with a pin through one of them to serve as a stop. Changing holes the pin is in gives you a high/low stroke adjustment. The procedure is detailed in your shop manual.
I'll dive into it, thanks!
Ok so I haven’t adjusted this yet but it was driving good today. I wanted to test the vacuum. So I got the car nice and warm, then disconnected the transmission vac line so I could get a manifold vacuum reading. The car immediately died when I did that. Should I disconnect somewhere else?
TrickSix
Famous Member
When you disconnect the hose you create a massive vacuum leak. Hook your gauge up before you start the car to keep it plugged.
Ahhh haha thank you
Gserafini, What was the solution? I have a 6cyl with exactly the same symptoms. No start after I have done a long list of fixes. Thanks for your reply,
Hey to be totally honest I’m not sure and still figuring it out, but it’s better. after I posted this in 2024 I didn’t quite fix it, and then the brakes kept going out on me. Garaged the car for a year and a half due to a lot of thing.
It’s funny you messaged, I just worked on it these past 2 weeks and took the first drive since starting this thread. Ended up swapping to dual bowl master cyl, that got the brakes solid for now. Still had carb/ running issues like before. I decided to pull the carb and open it up myself. Went on a rabbit hole of different manuals and images…since I’m no mechanic. My carb (1100 with SCV for a LOD dist) was missing the 4th check ball, the float was a bit too low, and the gasket was not great. Also, the fast idle and choke circuit really was not behaving like it should, I didn’t know this before. And the anti stall dash spot was not screwed in correctly. I just addressed those issues for my first attempt, put everything back together, re timed the car (just back to 12btdc) and drove it today. I have some kinks and tuning to work out still, but it’s driving much better than before!! I’m also now getting 19 inches of vacuum, where I was around 16-17 in 2024. Car Still likes to be really warmed up though. For today I’m happy, and then I noticed the radiator is starting to leak out of the top seam haha! Sorry for the very long update and reply, but I hope it helps! I’ll try to keep track of more things and update if I remember. Please do so as well I’m curious what you find out!
It’s funny you messaged, I just worked on it these past 2 weeks and took the first drive since starting this thread. Ended up swapping to dual bowl master cyl, that got the brakes solid for now. Still had carb/ running issues like before. I decided to pull the carb and open it up myself. Went on a rabbit hole of different manuals and images…since I’m no mechanic. My carb (1100 with SCV for a LOD dist) was missing the 4th check ball, the float was a bit too low, and the gasket was not great. Also, the fast idle and choke circuit really was not behaving like it should, I didn’t know this before. And the anti stall dash spot was not screwed in correctly. I just addressed those issues for my first attempt, put everything back together, re timed the car (just back to 12btdc) and drove it today. I have some kinks and tuning to work out still, but it’s driving much better than before!! I’m also now getting 19 inches of vacuum, where I was around 16-17 in 2024. Car Still likes to be really warmed up though. For today I’m happy, and then I noticed the radiator is starting to leak out of the top seam haha! Sorry for the very long update and reply, but I hope it helps! I’ll try to keep track of more things and update if I remember. Please do so as well I’m curious what you find out!
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