Autolite 1100 on 200 inline six

[DON]

Frank, ran some tests on the car with the following results:
RPM Dwell Gap Point
1200 60 .028 in (1200 RPM when car just started)
1200 60+ .030
1200 59 .022
1000 53 .022
800 40 .022
600 25 .022
800 40 .022
Car idled rough at 800 rpm and worse at 600 rpm but did not die.
Enclosed video.
Regards,

I noticed in the video you switched the top switch, which according to the bottom switch I looks like you are in the tach mode. So you are switching from the 6k range to the 12k range. You need to have the bottom switch in the points/dwell position and then switch the top one between points and dwell.
I may be wrong on this, it just a glimpse in the video. Just checking and assuming you are showing the dwell reading

 

[DON]

I am going by this clip of the video. It looks like the meter is set at the 6cyl rpm setting

 

[Gervill47]

Dear Members, I would like to thank all of you for sharing your knowledge and experiences with this newby. As you indicated Don I had the button of the instrument in the wrong position and I was dumbfounded that I coud not get a steady dwell reading with increased RPM. So this Pm I went and checked carefully and did find that at all times the button was in the wrong place, thereby the dwell is nor steady at 40 deg. Thanks for the suggestion.
Now I am in thep process of adjusting the carb as the car is runnung rich.
Thank you again without your help and assistance I would have been lost in getting the car going.
Blessings

 

[DON]

It does look like a nice piece of equipment for a points distributor

 

[Gervill47]

Don, thank you for your comment.
Now I am trying to adjust the carburator and thanks to Frank and thers I was able to get the ignition part in line.
On starting the car there is an intial blow of black smoke that stains the ground, It s definitely a rich condition and number one spark is also black. When I repaired the carb the float level was set at 1 3/32 in and everything else in accordance with theFord manual specs. Is there another reason for having a rich mixture? Car at idle RPM is somewhat rough. THe fuel mixture screw does nothing to fine tune the Idle RPM. Do not know what else to do or try.
Your comments will be appreciated.

 

[DON]

Just some info.
For the most part, if the carb is set rich, all the plugs will read rich, maybe not exactly the same, but blacker than normal.
It does sound like you have a carb issue. Others who are more familiar with the lom carb can chime in. Make sure your throttle stop screw (idle speed) is not too far in. If the idle speed screw is too far in, and your idle speed is at an acceptable speed, it is covering / compensating for a problem. It holds the butterfly valve open past the idle speed circuit ports making the idle speed screw not function and make no difference when it is turned. Having set a while, I would check the low speed jets and passages. Make sure the didn’t get clogged from setting (gas with ethanol is bad about that). I would also pull the plug wire off on the cylinder that is black ( I think it was number 1 cylinder). MAKE SURE you use insulated pliers and leather gloves help too, so you don’t get bit!!! You should notice it start running rougher and idle speed drop. If it makes little changes or no change, That will tell you if it is a miss on that cylinder.
Maybe check the compression too. That can cause a fouled plug or a miss symptom.

 

[Gervill47]

The carb was repaired recently and adjusted to Ford"s manual. Throttle screw is just touching the carb body. I am using ethanol free gasoline as recommended earlier in this chat and it has a new gas tank as well. I will try pulling the No 1 wire out and see how it reacts.
Thank you for your comments.

 

[Gervill47]

Back with additional information.
Opened the carb once more and checked the float level. Found it to be at 1 inch from the flange of the top of the carb. Releveled at 1 1/32 in. Put it back and started the car. when cold the car starts but with a very rumbling idle util it starts to wram. THen it runs smoothly at 800 RPM. I need to go back and recalibarte the fast idle speed to 1200 RPM. However, the car continues to run rich at idling. (Refer to the picture). I am pulling my hairs. I have done and adjusted this carb so many times that I do not know what else to do.
At least now starts and keeps idling

 

[DON]

Just so you know, some of that coming out of the tail pipe is normal. Especially if the car has just been started and run for a short while - never really heating up the exhaust. Condensation is a byproduct of combustion and it will consolidate in the pipe. It will spit some of it out at idle. It will be black too.
I’m not saying you don’t have a problem, just don’t go by that alone. If it is running good, depending on how cold your weather is, I would run it for 1/2 to 1 hr. ( like you stole it). Get it good and hot.
Stop, check the plugs, then start it again and see if you get the same discharge at the tailpipe

 

[awasson]

What @DON posted is accurate to my experience as well. Especially this time of year, every time I fire up my car, condensation will drip from my pipes and sometimes some soot will come out in the watery debris. Primarily it's because I drive it, get everything hot and then it sits and cools in a humid environment.

I am very encouraged that you've got the idle smooth. Mine isn't particularly happy when it's cold but smooths right out when it's warm and that's with a lumpy-ish camshaft. That's just the nature of these beasts, especially on the gas we run today.

The shop manual won't help assess how a mid-60's carburetor works on 2026 fuel blends. It's a starting point and then you either live with the best you can do or you can dial it in with an AFR gauge. I'd get out and drive it and tweak it as needed.

Get out there and drive it. Take it for a good long run and then reassess where you're at.

 

[Gervill47]

THank you Don and Awasson, you guys lift my spirits. I will do that and then repot. Blessings

 

[gserafini]

Wanted to add a quick note about points. I'd been going off the gap setting for the longest time at .025. I finally put a dwell on it and found i'd been running at roughly 30 degree dwell. Closed the gap to about 0.018 and now dwell is resting at 39/40 degrees. Found it so interesting and good to know the stock spec isn't always true depending on age of car and the parts

 

[Frank]

Wanted to add a quick note about points. I'd been going off the gap setting for the longest time at .025. I finally put a dwell on it and found i'd been running at roughly 30 degree dwell. Closed the gap to about 0.018 and now dwell is resting at 39/40 degrees. Found it so interesting and good to know the stock spec isn't always true depending on age of car and the parts

Correct. The points rubbing-block in the distributor wears down with time, the correct points gap diminishes with mileage. I had a Chevy6 truck with 350K hard miles on it. the correct dwell was @ .010" points gap.
Using dielectric grease on the rubbing block extends distributor and points life.

 

[66MustangSprint6]

Hi, I am adding to this thread because I am in the middle of solving a no start problem on a 1966 Mustang 6 Cyl 200cu.
I have been following this thread and it helped get me to this point. I can now start the car, but it ran rough. Then I got carb rebuilt.
Before starting again, I learned I was missing this little distributor 'clip' that goes on the distributor shaft. This clip cost $10 from a parts supplier. When installed today, it appears to 'stick up' and keep the rotor from going down far enough.
When installed like the picture, the Distributor cap will not go on because the rotor is too high. It hits the cap and won't clip in place.
I tried to put the clip the other way around, with the tab down. But when I try to do that, the rotor hole won't go over the tabs pre bent in the clip. So from these experts, Which way should the distributor clip be installed? Flat part up or down? Thanks,

 

[DON]

Pic 1 is the closest to being correct, you just need to install it below the raised area on the shaft

 

[DON]

FYI, the clip goes on, then the two part rotor goes on

 

[66MustangSprint6]

thank you Don, Where I have it now it is resting against the 'edge'. I will move it down on the shaft.

 

[Gervill47]

Back again, same car different problem.
Took the car for ride came back and left it for the night. The week after I trid to start it but there was nir power. Thought that the battery had died and charged it. Tried to star the car and there is no power, no lights, no start all dead. The battery rads 12.6 v. I get 12.6 v across the solenoid. the red probeof the multimeter to the Black/Yellow wire ring terminal right at the solenoid reads 12.6V . Jumpd the solenoid and I git a click. Externally grounded the engin with a jumpoer cable and no results that woud indicate that the car was not grounded.
I am baffled, could someone shed some light on this?
Appreciate your comments.

 

[DON]

Read (or watch) some voltage drop procedures on line. It will make more sense,
But use your multimeter and start at the battery and then start moving one probe to the next joint in the wiring.
The engine should crank when you jump 12v positive to the small, forward terminal on the solenoid. It won’t start and you only need a jumper wire.
With nothing working, grounding is suspicious. Ground your meter on the block and pos to the battery positive post and see what you get.