This is not correct: with a test light hooked to coil negative and grounded, the light will be ON when the points open. Off with them closed. Easy to visualize: the points are carrying current- they are grounding- when closed. Thus the current is going directly to ground (via points), and will not take the path of higher resistance thru the light. When the points open the light will come on.
The base timing can be set very precisely with the test light method: Set the damper to the desired mark, 12* in your case. Rotate the engine in the direction it runs, the damper must approach 12* in a clockwise direction. Put Test light to coil (-), key on. Rotate the distributor clockwise very slowly until the light comes on. Go a little farther clockwise while light is still on. Stop. Now go back counterclockwise until the light just goes off. Now gently and slowly back clockwise the fraction of an inch necessary for the light to come on again. The spot the light comes on is when the coil fires. Find that spot and lock the distributor down. Verify the rotor is over #1 tower, you're done. The timing is now 12* BTDC.
This will not correct your sudden stall issue.
***NOTE: every time the light switches off-to-on, the coil is going to fire. Remove the coil wire from the cap and ground it to the engine before this procedure. ***
If at any time the points are closed, should the light flicker or come on, your distributor is not grounding to the body. As I've explained, the points are not the end of the circuit, the battery negative post is. Distributor points must ground back to the battery one way or another, or no spark.
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