66 Mustang 200ci

Chris66

New member
Hi all. New here and new to my 200ci. in a ‘66 Mustang convertible.

Question: when started cold the car has a sputter from the exhaust and a bit of a hop/miss in the idle. Pulled a plug wire at a time and it runs the same. Driving it seems fine, but at a light it goes back to all of the above. It gets a little better when warmed up and warm outside.

Thoughts? Carb? Timing?
Thanks

PS mechanic says it runs fine but he’s not very meticulous…
 
By “sputter” do you mean water? That is normal for cold start. It goes away when at normal operating temperatures. That is why short runs are hard on exhaust, it doesn’t get hot enough to dry all the moisture out.
 
Thanks Don. That might be part of it. But it’s more like a miss. Even when warm it has the same thing but less. I ordered a fuel filter, PCV valve, plugs points and wires. Used a little carb cleaner. So I can try all that. I also just played with the idle up and down and that only masks it at a higher idle speed. I did try to pull a plug or two to check the gap/clean them up but they are wrenched in too tight. I just bought this and trying to get it all sorted out. I’m at square one I think.
 
Overtightened plugs are scary. Get a longer handled ratchet, make sure you have a 6 point socket. Get a long enough extension so you can pull straight and keep everything lined up. Finally, watch those knuckles! Once it breaks loose it will usually turn easy. 🙏🙏
And don’t forget a condenser 👍
 
Overtightened plugs are scary. Get a longer handled ratchet, make sure you have a 6 point socket. Get a long enough extension so you can pull straight and keep everything lined up. Finally, watch those knuckles! Once it breaks loose it will usually turn easy. 🙏🙏
And don’t forget a condenser 👍
So I finally pulled the plugs. Turned out I just had to grow a pair. When I pulled them, 4 were gapped the same and two different. They also had oil on the threads. When I pulled the PCV, same, lots o oil. I think I might have a leaking valve cover gasket and head gasket.

Still idles rough…. Have to check the choke and condenser as was mentioned here and points still (I think it’s electronic but I am not sure - how do I tell? Just pull the cap and look for points ?) Thanks.
 
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Oil around the pvc valve is not from head or valve cover gasket. Some is normal, could be from excessive blow by. If leaking out around the pvc valve, replace the rubber that holds it in the valve cover.
Yep, pull the cap and look for the points and condenser 👍
 
So I finally pulled the plugs. Turned out I just had to grow a pair. When I pulled them, 4 were gapped the same and two different. They also had oil on the threads. When I pulled the PCV, same, lots o oil. I think I might have a leaking valve cover gasket and head gasket.

Still idles rough…. Have to check the choke and condenser as was mentioned here and points still (I think it’s electronic but I am not sure - how do I tell? Just pull the cap and look for points ?) Thanks.
Sounds like an ignition miss, or too early timing. Yes, pull the cap and see if it's points or if a Pertronix or other ignition has been swapped in. If you change the points, keep the same condenser. New condensers are suspect in quality.
 
It is not used with PerTronix or other electronic switching, as there is no arc to suppress. Some modern electronic systems use capacitors near the coil for noise suppression, although usually larger capacity. I'd keep it if it's good. There are ways to test them if you're not sure.
 
When you pull the distributor cap, look at the top inside very carefully for any fine lines between the spark plug terminals. Those fine lines would be carbon tracks showing that sometimes the spark doesn't go where intended. If you find any--replace the cap.
 
Hi, you might have a faulty vacuum advance canister. You need to find out if you have the original Spark Control Valve carb, and the Load-O-Matic distributor (SCV, LOM). Read about this in the tech section. Many times the parts were mismatched over the last few decades. Most Ford Sixes went the the more modern carb and distributor in 67 or 68. You can check the carb by looking for the SCV on the side. It looks like a Holley power valve. The LOM distributors have a metal vacuum hose with a flare nut connection, and a flat, pancake like vacuum advance canister. You can test the vacuum advance diaphragm with a hand vacuum pump, or simply by sucking on the hose or tube and seeing if the breaker plate moves.
Good luck
 
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