A few questions about the 2V Conversion

[mysavioreigns]

Hello all,
Been a while since I've been on. I've been focusing on suspension, paint, body for a while and have run into an impasse with that, so I am switching back over to the 200 for a while.

I have been reading a ton lately on Classicinlines about the 2V Conversion and have seen how much of an improvement it makes over a 2-to-1 adapter. I do have a few questions though:

1) Right now I have the Weber DGV 32/36 whatever you want to call it. So I'll need this adapter once I have the head milled out:

If I were to, down the road, change my mind and want an Autolite 2100, could I just buy that adapter and switch, or would I have to buy an entire new head, have it re-machined, and then put the new adapter on?

2) With the Weber DGV direct-mounted to the log-intake, the Fuel Bowl still faces the Driver's side as opposed to the Radiator...any problems with choking out of fuel during hard turns?

3) How can I pick a good machine shop to do this? It isn't the machining that worries me, it is the metal filler that needs to be applied then machined, as well as this little paragraph from Classicinlines:

If you don't have us do your head work, be very cautious selecting a shop. Working on a set of V8 heads does not qualify them as experts on the small six head. There are little tricks and issues that most shops are unaware of, simply because they do not have the proper experience. I can't tell you how many times I've had customers tell me they have a so called "expert", working on their cylinder head, only to hear nightmares several months later. And in case your wondering, we do fix their errors, however it can be very expensive.

Thanks everyone

 

[jahearne]

1) If you switch to Autolite, you only need a new adaptor and have to drill out the inner mounting holes to match your intake log.

 

[mysavioreigns]

Thanks jahearne.

I was going to buy an E0 head to do this conversion, but now I am reconsidering. I have a D0DE-6090-A head, which is a 250/200 head from 1970, and should be rated at 1240cc. I saw what I think was an E0 head today (it was on fox-body Mustang, at the pic n pull).

Is there going to be that much of a difference upgrading from the D0DE head to the E0DE? or even the D8DE? Additionally, they have the same chamber volume, at 62, cc, so I'm not gaining much other than the ability to have the larger intake valve that would be on the 80 head (1.75" vs. 1.65"). The log has 180 more cc so...could be.

Any suggestions? Keep the head, have it machined? Or seek out an 80 head and rebuild it?

For what it is worth, my 70 head is pretty much a brand new rebuild.

 

[jahearne]

Depends on cost. I spent the extra money for larger valves, basic port job and cc the chambers. A 2v conversion could benefit from the larger plenum on the E0 head and larger valves. I think that ClassicInlines is basically going to rebuild any head you send in for the conversion, so sending a fresh cylinder head might not be all that beneficial. The E0 head also has hardened seats for unleaded gas. If you can get the E0 head for a good price, go for it... and Autolite carb!

 

[mysavioreigns]

Sounds good. I'm pretty sure the one I looked at today was an E0DE but the casting # was covered up...

The reason I didn't bother pulling it was because it had a TON of emissions crap sticking in and out of it. How would all of that be plugged? It looked like a mess right now.

 

[jahearne]

I guess they get capped off with pipe plugs.

 

[bmbm40]

I looked in my well worn copy of the Falcon Performance Manual under the head id section and found this:
80-82 all vehicles EOBE-BA,BB Undesireable smog fitting head

Try to remove the stuff in your way and get the casting number.
There's lots of good parts on there to get though.

 

[mysavioreigns]

Thanks bmbm40. To clarify, are you saying the -BB head is the undesirable one and the -BA is the one I want?

Thanks for the tips guys

 

[bmbm40]

The BA and the BB are undesireable according to the Falcon Manual.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy All:

Whoa!!!! "80-82 all vehicles EOBE-BA,BB Undesireable smog fitting head" Where does the Handbook say that? IT is a Misprint if it does. Please refer me to which edition you're looking at and a page reference.

Bmbm40- please let me know where you found the above reference. The only undesireable heads that we know of are all Cxxx codes, either Calif/Em or ones used with the Thermactic air pump smog system. They could be C6, 7, C8DE, or C9DE-R. These heads are not preferred because of the tubing plumbed into the exhaust ports from the Thermactic air pump. the idea was to inject air into the exhaust stream to more completely burn any remaining hydro-carbons before emitting them into the atmosphere. When working correctly it worked pretty good, Unfortunately, nothing lasts forever.

MSR- In our opinion, the E0xx heads are a great head to use for a performance, durability upgrade and to use as a core for modifying for a direct mounted 2V.

The casting number is on top of the log, behind the carb mount, under the linkage bracket. There are a couple of taps that will need to be capped. One on the side of the log, under the carb mount. It can be capped with a small piece of steel and the mounting bolts. The other(s) are taps for vacuum switches. The correct size cap screw will plug them.

My next head is an E0xx casting.

Adios, David

 

[mysavioreigns]

Thanks David

That's great to hear. I think I will head back out there and take my allen-wrench set to check the casting number this time.

Woo I'm excited...hope it is the right one

 

[MPGmustang]

grab that E0 head if it is, it's absolutly worth it...

I'm running the D8 head the first year that they came with hardened seats IIRC. I had Mike warm it over for me to increase CFM air flow, it flows as good as a stock aussie head so your E0 find will flow the same or more if ported properly. I highly recomend the 2bbl conversion, as of right now my 1bbl hole can't keep up with the bottom end, it's try'n to pull more air in and it can't even with a 350cfm holley carb which reached 127hp it still has manifold vacuum and I'm using the 1.5 rockers, I know that if I used the HR rocker set it would pull more vacuum.

Good luck and happy hunting

 

[bmbm40]

Hi CZLN6
I found this on the bottom right of the blue Head Identification: page. Ninth edition, December 2005.

Please let me know if I am misinterpreting. Sorry in advance for any confusion.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Back:

Bmbm- Thanks, I got it. The "Undesirable" head is only the 1980 D8BE-6015 with GE suffix. Note the suffix. This is a very rare head and we really don't know the why or where it was intended, but it has some odd bunges, bulges and taps that make it less ideal then other heads of this era. The "Undesirable" reference does not apply to the 80 - 82 reference below it. 80 - 82 head casting, without the "GE" suffix, are among the best heads to modify for performance. Sorry for the confusion, and we'll clarify in future editions. Thanks for bringing it to our attention.

Adios, David

 

[wsa111]

Howdy All:

Whoa!!!! "80-82 all vehicles EOBE-BA,BB Undesireable smog fitting head" Where does the Handbook say that? IT is a Misprint if it does. Please refer me to which edition you're looking at and a page reference.

Bmbm40- please let me know where you found the above reference. The only undesireable heads that we know of are all Cxxx codes, either Calif/Em or ones used with the Thermactic air pump smog system. They could be C6, 7, C8DE, or C9DE-R. These heads are not preferred because of the tubing plumbed into the exhaust ports from the Thermactic air pump. the idea was to inject air into the exhaust stream to more completely burn any remaining hydro-carbons before emitting them into the atmosphere. When working correctly it worked pretty good, Unfortunately, nothing lasts forever.

MSR- In our opinion, the E0xx heads are a great head to use for a performance, durability upgrade and to use as a core for modifying for a direct mounted 2V.

The casting number is on top of the log, behind the carb mount, under the linkage bracket. There are a couple of taps that will need to be capped. One on the side of the log, under the carb mount. It can be capped with a small piece of steel and the mounting bolts. The other(s) are taps for vacuum switches. The correct size cap screw will plug them.

My next head is an E0xx casting.

Adios, David

David, there is a 3/8 or 1/2" threaded pipe hole that needs to be plugged. I suggest using a cast iron pipe plug so the expansion will coincide with the cast log.

After milling the top of the log, the distance from the top of this plug to the mounting surface is very thin & it cracks very easy.

The ideal deal would be to install the plug & braze around that area to strenghten the casting even before milling.

Do all your brazing at one time, cause you should preheat the head to 400F when filling in all the thin areas of the log before milling.

Now is the time to do all the machine work on the head such as hardened exhaust seats, new valve guides & all the cup plugs refered to as freeze plugs & milling the deck to level it after heating the head to do the brazing.

Doing all the above work will make a great finished product. Bill

 

[mysavioreigns]

Thanks Bill.

That's a little worrisome about the brittleness milling down that close to the hole but I'll take your advice.

I'm thinking that finding a quality machinist here in the DFW range (who can also compete with Mike's prices in AZ) might be the toughest part of this.

Called about the head and they want $75 .... Just gotta make sure it looks good (it's rusty on the outside) and I'll go from there

 

[mysavioreigns]

Went back today and verified that it IS an E0BE-6090-BB head. Problem is he wouldn't budge off the $75 price (whatever happened to haggling?). So I walked off, in an attempt to get him to reconsider. He won that battle.

I'll probably go back in a week or 2 and get it. It has no carb, so the intake is wide open and it has been open to the elements. a few rust shavings are visible in the intake...not sure if that's something to worry about. Also the water housing over the thermostat is gone, so that is wide open to the elements as well. Like I said previously, it is pretty rusty on the outside. I probably need to find somewhere that can magnaflux the head quickly so I can take it back if it isn't good.

Thanks again for the help everyone.

 

[bmbm40]

You mentioned that head is at picnpul. The picnpul in NV has half price days and I filled out a memebership kind of form with them and now I get advance notice of half price days by email. They may not be the same corporation but you could ask or check other picnpul in the area. The 250 I just bought was less than $150 I think, pulled the head first then the block but that amount sounds about right. Can't beat half price day.

 

[mysavioreigns]

We have a few local pick n' pulls, but this head was at a separate Salvage Yard.

I have been keeping an eye out for early 80s fords at the pick n' pulls because they only charge like $40 or 50 for the heads, but they must have something against inline 6's. I've only seen one, out of thousands of vehicles. Weird.

 

[bmbm40]

Look for Granadas and Monarchs, Ford sold a lot of these vehicles and they are more likely to have a 250.