A.I.R Check valve question...

DarkRose

Well-known member
Does anyone happen to know the thread size for the nut/fitting on the bottom of the check valve?

I've removed my smog pump, and all associated acoutrements, except for the check valve, because I'd hate to take the effort to pull it out, then find out I can't find a pipe plug of the correct size for it and have to put it back... Right now the check valve just has a large vaccum cap on top of it, and the engine runs great, just looking to clean up my engine compartment a bit!
 
By the way, it's on a 3.3L 200 in a 1979 Fairmont Futura if that makes a difference, but I'd assume they're all the same size? :?:
 
HMMM, nope. But it is a standard part on Fords 4, 6 and 8 cyl
i'm leaving mine on.
Most people remove the line itself, and then bolt up the injection tubes with brass plugs. I'd try get another one if there are no other replys to this post. Then you'd be able to find or make a blankoff bolt.


http://www.motorcityreman.com/aircheckvalve.html

FORD OE C6AZ9A487A, SALE PRICE $11.02

:nono:Don't remove your emissions gear. A good air pump gives another 25 cfm of free exhast flow, just perfect as an anti-lag device for, say, a turbocharger...
 
Hey DarkRose,
What did you plug the holes where the air lines go into the head with? I guess the '79 head and my cali emissions '66 head will be the same.

xctasy,
I have never heard anyone say to not remove the emissions for the reason you give. I'm not questioning you, but can you do some explaining on it? What about on a non turbo car?
 
On turbo installations, AIR adds to exhast CFM by up to full flow of the pump. Thats around 25 cfm for most Fords I think. It allows any fitted turbo to come into operation sooner by adding to exhast flow.

AIR is not a lovely item, it does hurt and take the sparkle off engine performance and economy, but its operation is just a 5% er in terms of power loss. My old ride still has all the parts, and its no rocketship, but it is legal.

Hope you get the parts sorted so it fits in with your objectives. I'd like to put in an offer....I'll have what you don't use.
 
jimlj66":3vov3k12 said:
Hey DarkRose,
What did you plug the holes where the air lines go into the head with? I guess the '79 head and my cali emissions '66 head will be the same.

xctasy,
I have never heard anyone say to not remove the emissions for the reason you give. I'm not questioning you, but can you do some explaining on it? What about on a non turbo car?

Honestly, I'm not sure at the moment, trying to remember even seeing any going into the head, I wonder if part of the system might already have been removed when my cousin did bodywork and a new paintjob on it a few years back... I've got the check valve tube covered with a large vaccum cap, and plugged off the smaller lines I found with vaccum caps... I'll have to look at any lines into the head, she'll be going down for a bit soon anyway, needs a trip to the body shop after a parking lot incident...
 
xctasy":1il20m34 said:
HMMM, nope. But it is a standard part on Fords 4, 6 and 8 cyl
i'm leaving mine on.
Most people remove the line itself, and then bolt up the injection tubes with brass plugs. I'd try get another one if there are no other replys to this post. Then you'd be able to find or make a blankoff bolt.


http://www.motorcityreman.com/aircheckvalve.html

FORD OE C6AZ9A487A, SALE PRICE $11.02

:nono:Don't remove your emissions gear. A good air pump gives another 25 cfm of free exhast flow, just perfect as an anti-lag device for, say, a turbocharger...

Back to plugging the hole in the exhaust manifold after the check valve/pipe is removed... A header would solve that problem altogether wouldn't it? :hmmm:
 
Back
Top