About to pull the power train on my 66 coupe

hickorystang

Well-known member
Up until today I was all ready to do an i6 to V8 conversion, but have decided against it. Now I need to focus on getting the HP on this thing a lot higher (or as much as an i6 would go). Headers will be installed, a 4-barrel and new intake. Just need someone to help me decide what are good things and bad things to do to it. I would like a 4-speed added as well. Currently have the C4.
 
1) What are the plans for the car? street? strip? auto-x? other? daily driver?

2) For the 4bbl, you'll more than likely need the Classic Inlines aluminum head and the intake, the other method to get a 4bbl would be to get an Australian 250-2V head and the necessary intake

3) Why the 4-spd? The T5 will net you decent milage, and has a huge aftermarket.
 
hickorystang":1spip0as said:
Up until today I was all ready to do an i6 to V8 conversion, but have decided against it. Now I need to focus on getting the HP on this thing a lot higher (or as much as an i6 would go). Headers will be installed, a 4-barrel and new intake. Just need someone to help me decide what are good things and bad things to do to it. I would like a 4-speed added as well. Currently have the C4.

8) evan makes some good points. decide first what you want from the car. a daily driver build will be different from a street/strip machine.

regarding installing a four barrel carb, unless you are going to make a lot of power from the six, most four barrel carbs are going to be too much for the engine. holley makes a 390cfm and a 450 cfm four barrel carb that is about all a healthy six can use in most applications. and as evan indicated, unless you are going to remove the log intake and build a custom intake, you will need one of three heads;

1: the aussie 250 2v head

2: the argentine head

3: classicinlines aluminum head

the first two are difficult to get as they need to be imported, and they are starting to get a bit scarce. the classicinlines head is rather expensive but available and quite good.

a less expensive alternative is to modify your stock head by having the log machined to accept a direct mount two barrel carb conversion. at the same time consider having the head ported as well. classicinlines can handle both procedures nicely.

as to the transmission selection, unless you are going old school, consider, again as evan suggested, going to a T5 5 speed trans. you can run a stiffer gear than you normally would and use the overdrive to bring the engine rpms down to a reasonable level for normal cruising.

other things you can do are add an electronic ignition conversion, if you have an early 64 or earlier block you can add a pertronix ignitor, or modify the block and use the duraspark distributor. remember to change the oil pump and pump drive shaft to fit the distributor.

a header is also a good idea, along with a good dual exhaust system.

you can also do a cam swap as well.
 
1) I plan on this being a daily driver on sunny days only.
2) Want to get high performance parts for my engine rebuild
3) Should I stick with a 2v instead? I have a 2100 sitting on my shelf already
just needs rebuilt
4) Definitely going with headers with dual outs for true dual exhaust
5) Wife cannot drive a stick, so the T5 conversion is out. Just sticking with the C4
and will be rebuilt while out
6) Now I need some help on what high performance parts I need to go ahead and order. Granted, I still have a crapload of sheet metal work to do, but am removing the powertrain for ease of accessibility to the replacement of the firewall and addition of the new cowl assy.
 
I think you'll be surprised how quick 150-165 hp feels in a 2500lb Mustang. That's almost the same power to weight ratio as a turbocharged 2004-2005 Mazdaspeed Miata. With a 4- or 5-speed, these cars are nice daily drivers, especially after upgrading the brakes, add the "Shelby drop", and install some good shocks.

With a C4, the lack of overdrive is an issue if you do any extended driving at high speeds. Someday, someone needs to start cutting out adapter plates to allow you to bolt in a 200-4R or 700R4. The AOD is just too clunky to work well in this application.
 
I don't know how difficult it is to install a 250 but as long as all the drive train is out you might want to consider it. You get to use v8 transmissions. The 250 is almost 2" taller which is the main problem.
 
Sent him over here from a Mustang forum. Stephen needs someone to give him a blow by blow plan to build up his 200ci and use his C4 and rearend. He has the the info for a 250 swap. Needs things like cam, porting, carb, ignition etc. for a Mustang. I can't help him with that.
 
Since you have that 2V it would be a good one to use as was mentioned all ready best is to direct mount it to your head. If you want an even better log style head hunt for a 1977 to 83 200 or 250 head both used the same head with a larger log. Have it ported, milled (and the block decked so you end up with 9.0 to 9.5 C.R.) and moded for the direct carb mount. The double roller timing chain set is a good upgrade. Use the later 1967 & up Select Shift valve body it's the very best upgrade for the early C4 trans, also install a good Trans Go shift kit in that C4 valve body. There is a way to make a C4 work like an OD trans (4 speed) still have great performance by using a a low gear set (lower 1st and 2nd gear spread) and than install a higher ratio rear end gears (2.5 to 2.8 it could get a bit pricy though. Consider doing a disk brake swap and an 8 inch rear up grade too. You might pick up the "The Ford Falcon Six Cylinder Performance Handbook" too for all the best info on building these sixes. Good luck with your 66 Mustang build.

http://www.classicinlines.com/products.asp?cat=73
 
Remember, Keep it simple!!!

if a 2bbl, look for a 77+ head, don't worry about bigger valves as they are close to the biggest and the extra cost IMO isn't worth it for a street cruiser...
go for a valve job on the stock valves
260/260 with 112 lobes would be nice behind a c4
stock rockers
headers, down to one 2.5inch pipe
3.2 rear gears, or 3.00 gears will keep rpm nice, or can go with 'gear venders' for a new tail shaft for the c4 for a OD ratio and 3.5 rear gears
DSII conversion
stock timing chain, with 4* advance key
electric fan and alum radiator (will free up HP)

I can see this combo being healthy at 130+hp at the tires, that's 160-180hp at the crank

Some people will say get this or that (like rod bolts or double roller timing chain) but i don't think you 'need' them for just a simple cruiser, you won't be abusing the engine much and it will rev strongly to 5500rpm-6k depending on valve springs. the c4 will limit your cam to 260 and lower unless you change your TC which isn't a bad idea now that you have it out, as you're going headers stay away from the dual cam grinds that were meant for those that like stock exhaust manifolds.
 
Back
Top