ANOTHER 1100 QUESTION

[292_fan]

Hi folks, I have an 1100 on a 1963 170ci in a 1963 Falcon, 2 spd auto, manual choke. Engine runs great, good idle, plenty of power for the 170. My nagging and annoying problem is the percolating fuel when the engine is shut down. Has done this since day one. It doesn't come out the top, just down into the intake making for a hard start condition. I have the 3 check balls and 1 weight positioned according to the diagram and my float is now so low that if I take a sweeping turn to the right(think freeway exit) it will lean out. Engine starts fine when sitting over night or more than an hour after shutdown. I have the original water spacer under the carb with no additional stud length for additional spacers. Also the vent valve rod has been disabled in the open position with no effect but to evaporate the fuel bowl in a couple of days. Is there anything I should look into? Or is this just a quirk of the 1100 to live with. I have tried the search function but was not successful as you can tell Any help greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Steve.

 

[chad]

I'm not sure what u mean by precolating.
Ck 4 vac. leaks, worn prts and adj that float back UP...
don't U think U have it too low?
Keep talkin !

 

[bubba22349]

First off you need to reset your float level to correct spec. for a stock engine combo getting every carb and ignistion setting baselines to the factory settings is very important to the engine running correctly. Also I would hook back up the bowl vent Rod. As to your fuel percolation issue I would start by using a thick type carb base gasket these were used on the later 1970's Fords like say a 1978 up FairMont 200 as an example it may be a bit of defective work to find one that fits your carb correctly. Another way is to make an insulator out of plastic material and use another stock carb base gasket i.e. One on top one on the bottom. Lastly you might also check your fuel pressure to see if it's within spec's you may need to use a regulator if it's too high. Is your cooling system working right too? Good luck

 

[292_fan]

Thanks folks for you insight. You are right about adjusting the float. I was just experimenting to see if going as low as possible would correct the problem. It only helped to keep the fuel from coming out the brass vent tube and out of the carb externally. I need to split the middle of where it is now(low) and manuf. specs.( manufacturers specs had the fuel running out the top of the carb and pooling on the outside of the intake). By percolating I mean boiling out of the bowl. As I said running there is no issue only when shut down. If I open the hood, there is hardly any boil off and starting is much easier. I also forgot to mention that I do have 2 carb mounting gaskets between the carb and the water spacer. I never thought of a pressure regulator. Not knowing much about them, would pressure have an affect on when the pump is not pumping? My timing is set at 12deg BTDC and the advance diaphragm is new and leak free. It's a SCV carb with a LOM dizzy. Cooling system is good and clean, heater puts out heat, t-stat is new at 190deg. Temp gauge stays low in the normal range when running and will go high in the normal range after being shut down for a few minutes. Moves back to low in the normal range approx 1 minute after start up. Come spring I will look into the pressure regulator, in the meantime please bombard me with other ides as I am fresh out.

Steve.

 

[bubba22349]

Thanks folks for you insight. You are right about adjusting the float. I was just experimenting to see if going as low as possible would correct the problem. It only helped to keep the fuel from coming out the brass vent tube and out of the carb externally. I need to split the middle of where it is now(low) and manuf. specs.( manufacturers specs had the fuel running out the top of the carb and pooling on the outside of the intake). By percolating I mean boiling out of the bowl. As I said running there is no issue only when shut down. If I open the hood, there is hardly any boil off and starting is much easier. I also forgot to mention that I do have 2 carb mounting gaskets between the carb and the water spacer. I never thought of a pressure regulator. Not knowing much about them, would pressure have an affect on when the pump is not pumping? My timing is set at 12deg BTDC and the advance diaphragm is new and leak free. It's a SCV carb with a LOM dizzy. Cooling system is good and clean, heater puts out heat, t-stat is new at 190deg. Temp gauge stays low in the normal range when running and will go high in the normal range after being shut down for a few minutes. Moves back to low in the normal range approx 1 minute after start up. Come spring I will look into the pressure regulator, in the meantime please bombard me with other ides as I am fresh out.

Steve.

Hi Steve, ok then it sounds more like its a flooding problem instead of the carb being overheated to point of boiling the fuel out of it. To answer some of your other questions yes too much fuel presure can cause flooding by over powering the inlet needle off the seat and yes this can happen even for a short time right after the engine has been shut down. Another and very common cause of this flooding is a bad fuel float so you might want to test the float to see if it's in good condition i.e. If its an old one that has a crack in it (this is on a brass type float) this would allow it to take on fuel and become too heavy. Since you can't get it to work correctly at the stock carb specs this would be good a possibility one that I have run into many times in the past. You can shake them and hear the fuel inside them and also see it seeping out of the crack. One other thing that can cause flooding is a bad or worn inlet needle and or seat. Good luck Edited

 

[292_fan]

Bubba, again thanks for you insight. I have tried both a brass float and a plastic(phenolic?) float. They both weighed the same(within a few grams) of each other with no difference. I'm not trying to discredit or seem ungrateful for your ideas, but I've been dealing with this for 2+ years and can't remember all at once what I have tried to fix this. It is possible that my floats are bad. I did do the hot water test with the brass float and had no bubbles. Is it possible that too much float drop would contribute to this? As I mentioned before, if I raise the hood after shutdown, the issue goes away. I was going to try to make a heatshield for under the carb but the water spacer has the hoses too close to the carb to be feasible for me. I have been told this problem has a lot to do with the ethanol fuel here in the northeast and the fact that the carb sits over the exhaust manifold as well. Will defenitly try a fuel pressure regulator in the spring. Again, very appreciative of the help anyone can give.

Steve

 

[chad]

"...fuel presure can cause flooding by over powering the inlet needle off the seat ..."
"... inlet needle and or seat..."
X 2

Is the hoof bashin into the top of the carb?

 

[292_fan]

Chad, no the hood is not hitting the air cleaner. All is stock. 63 Falcon with the 170 CI. Don't know how much clearance there is though..

Steve.

 

[bubba22349]

Bubba, again thanks for you insight. I have tried both a brass float and a plastic(phenolic?) float. They both weighed the same(within a few grams) of each other with no difference. I'm not trying to discredit or seem ungrateful for your ideas, but I've been dealing with this for 2+ years and can't remember all at once what I have tried to fix this. It is possible that my floats are bad. I did do the hot water test with the brass float and had no bubbles. Is it possible that too much float drop would contribute to this? As I mentioned before, if I raise the hood after shutdown, the issue goes away. I was going to try to make a heatshield for under the carb but the water spacer has the hoses too close to the carb to be feasible for me. I have been told this problem has a lot to do with the ethanol fuel here in the northeast and the fact that the carb sits over the exhaust manifold as well. Will defenitly try a fuel pressure regulator in the spring. Again, very appreciative of the help anyone can give.

Steve

Hi Steve well we are not doing so good in trying to help you fix that Falcon. Yes too much float drop can also cause the float to stick. If you have already done the the fuel float tests then you can for sure rule that out as a cause. There are some site members that have made heat shields and insulators you could do a search of this forum to find them. Best of luck

 

[chad]

Chad, no the hood is not hitting the air cleaner. All is stock. 63 Falcon with the 170 CI. Don't know how much clearance there is though..
Steve.

OK,
we'll keep workin widya.
Is the coolant frm the heater core routed thru ur base plate under the carb?
I'll hafta re-read when more time (not that I'm the answer man).
Some change so manythings so quickly it's hard to diagnos but that doesn't seem to B a prob here.
Back later Don't dispare will taKE some time (but U seem to have been @ it too long now)...

 

[wsa111]

After you check the fuel pressure. If its too high either install a pressure regulator or another option is do away with the mechanical pump cause it holds fuel pressure for up to 15 minutes.
Install an electric fuel pump cause it does not hold fuel pressure after engine is shut off.

 

[292_fan]

Hi all, in answer to you questions, yes the heater water goes through the carb base. Not bypassed. WSA never thought of an electric fuel pump. Good idea. The mechanical pump is new and I changed it right away as a precaution when I bought the car(2+ yrs ago) so I don't know if this problem existed beforehand. The pump is a made in China brand. I do have some ideas now and can gather the parts over the winter to use this spring. I will get either a pressure regulator or electric fuel pump. I also have a 1/4 inch spacer that is composite. It is a non heat conducting material sandwiched between two pieces of aluminum. I just need longer carb studs. Would anyone happen to know the thread pitch and diameter of the stud ends? So please don't give up or feel disappointed or think that I am ungrateful for your help. This is a nuisance that I have been tackling off and on over the years and I have learned to expect it. It's just that if someone wants to borrow the car and I try to explain it to them, they get nervous. Not me though. I enjoy the heck out of the car. Run it all over and back and not a deal breaker for me. Never fails to start and never lets me down. Even had to drive it home in 6 inches and falling snow.(narrow tires are great in the snow) I'm sorry it won't be till spring when I can use these ideas as the car is packed away with the others for the winter. So thank you for the ideas already and please keep any more coming. Thank you so much.

Steve

 

[chad]

"...Would anyone happen to know the thread pitch and diameter of the stud ends? …"
Matt at vintage inlines .com supplies us w/lotta our "engine prts". Also a member here.