All Small Six Anyone tried this electronic distributor?

[funkaholik]

@wsa111
@chad

When I rebuilt my leaky Autolite 1100, I noticed that there was no SCV, and the boss where it would mount was not drilled through or tapped - just a pocket. My guess is it's a later carb (my car is a '67). At least it's stamped FoMoCo and not "Made in China"! So I've currently got a load-o-matic distributor running off of ported vacuum only, and it's a dog.

I am into the DSII idea if I don't have to mount a giant red MSD box somewhere. Could I use something with a small form factor, like the Pertronix Digital HP? I have that on my Datsun and it works great and is easy to hide. I don't know if it has the necessary functions to control a DSII, though. What is the GM 4 pin box? Besides the distributor itself and some sort of box, what else is required to run a DSII?

This is the first engine I've owned where there weren't a ton of good distributor options available, and I'm a Ford 6 newbie, so expect many more questions from me...

 

[Frank]

The DS2 is a magnetic signal distributor. The GM HEI is also. Rather than using the rather large silver DS2 box, many of us run the DS2 distributor with the GM module, which is small, dependable, cheaper unit than the Ford DS2. Easy to wire and easy to carry a spare and replace if necessary.
I posted one here, listed for a '79 Chevy. Any year GM that used the HEI distributor will work. I am running this set up on a '90 F150 and it works great.

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[PSIG]

A Duraspark II from a 79 Ford Fairmont will be readily available from rockauto.com and will be a Ford OEM option.

There are many options for 'good' ignition. True, for standard ignition energy the Fairmont setup is a bit complex but as good as any. Fortunately 1977 had the Maverick 200 and 250 with the high-energy DS-1 (red) box in California versions. Originally to run emissions schemes, we can use it to instead gain HP and MPG. Not quite to the power level of the GM HEI, but much higher than the DS-II (blue) standard version. If you prefer a full "Ford" setup, this (with the Ford high-energy coil) would be the hot ticket. Literally.

 

[bmbm40]

The DS2 is a magnetic signal distributor. The GM HEI is also. Rather than using the rather large silver DS2 box, many of us run the DS2 distributor with the GM module, which is small, dependable, cheaper unit than the Ford DS2. Easy to wire and easy to carry a spare and replace if necessary.
I posted one here, listed for a '79 Chevy. Any year GM that used the HEI distributor will work. I am running this set up on a '90 F150 and it works great.

Standard Ignition Control Module LX-301 | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Find the right Standard Ignition Control Module for your 1979 Chevrolet C10 Pickup RWD at O'Reilly Auto Parts. Place your order online and pick it up at your lo

www.oreillyauto.com

This is probably going on my Phase 2 list of mods. I like this because almost any parts store should have one and as stated smaller than the DSII box, cheaper and not that noticeable under the hood. Along with a custom curved DSII distributor.

 

[TrickSix]

I actually don't like the look of the coil-in-cap HEI, DUI, or even the wide cap Duraspark units. As I mentioned in the initial post, I'd prefer something that looks "stock-ish". Is there a small cap Duraspark distributor? And if so, do I need an external control box to run it? Or are they pretty much plug and play?

The first year or two of the Duraspark system had a small distributor cap that looked much like the old ones. For another few years you could still use the small Duraspark cap on the newer big cap distributors. I'm not sure on the exact timing here. I've got a couple Duraspark distributors in a box but I'm sticking with a dual-advance points style one for now.

 

[PSIG]

+1, the distributor body is the same, so you can use a small cap, or the funnel-shaped big cap adapter. The big cap was originally for the DS-I (red) high-energy version (expected to be in everything) and future-plan for TFI. But Ford found maintenance intervals were extended with the big cap even on lower-energy distributors such as the DS-II (blue). So, they stuck to the old plan and everything got it.

 

[chad]

DSII is used by some racers today w/good success, no U dont need the MSD (”...if I don't have to mount a giant red MSD box somewhere...”) or a good deal of $. Some use TFI w/it. here’s 1 schematics if going a lill further: gofastforless.com

 

[funkaholik]

@aussie7mains Thanks for the info. I ended up getting the Bosch distributor from the DSM Motorsport site. Total with shipping to California was only US$145 (AUD$209). They took their time getting it in the post, but it arrived here eventually and it looks like a nice unit with a simple two wire installation. Once I’m done with my brake system, I’ll get to work on wiring everything up with a relay for a full 12v to the coil and let everyone know how it performs. It’s sure to be a hell of a lot better than my current load-o-matic and no SCV on my carb.

 

[gb500]

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[John Ha]

I bought a Duraspark II distributor for a 75 Maverick from my local chain auto parts store. It's a Cardone remanufactured unit and it uses the small cap. Looks completely stock. I run the stock Duraspark coil with it and the control box with the blue strain relief. Works really well. You will be satisfied with the results of money spent to get yours recurved as recommended by @wsa111 .

 

[funkaholik]

I got my DSM Motorsport distributor installed and I'm really happy with its effect on the car. Idle is rock solid. The car has way more power, and where it used to fall on its face at 4000 rpm, it now revs to 5000 without complaint. The thing I hadn't expected was the reduction in operating temps. Cruising temp on the freeway has dropped somewhere between 1/8 to 1/6 lower on the gauge than before. I have the stock gauge with no temps listed so I'm not sure what the numbers are, but it is noticeably lower.

I installed the distributor with a Pertroxix Flamethrower 3 coil and a relay triggered by the factory resistance wire that sends 12V directly to the coil. Other than that, there are 2 wires going from the dizzy to the coil, and that's it. I didn't get a chance to do a dyno session before the install, so I only have my butt dyno results, but it is noticeably smoother and more powerful.

I'm hoping to get a chance to get some dyno numbers before I install my header and weld up my SS exhaust. I have a thermal coated dual outlet eBay header ( thanks to @DannyG ), and I'll be installing a Y pipe to a 2.5" single exhaust. I think that's going to be plenty since this will never be a hot rod. I have a 2.25" system I fabricated for my Datsun, and it's a 2155cc highly modified engine making 156 at the wheels.

 

[chad]

“... my Datsun, and it's a 2155cc ..."
what’s that Y/M/M ?

 

[Frank]

I got my DSM Motorsport distributor installed and I'm really happy with its effect on the car. Idle is rock solid. The car has way more power, and where it used to fall on its face at 4000 rpm, it now revs to 5000 without complaint.

The thing I hadn't expected was the reduction in operating temps. Cruising temp on the freeway has dropped somewhere between 1/8 to 1/6 lower on the gauge than before. I have the stock gauge with no temps listed so I'm not sure what the numbers are, but it is noticeably lower.

This is most likely from late ignition timing at higher rpm from a lazy factory advance curve. More advance at speed would account for all of the above.

Helpful to know the new relay is activated by the ignition resistance wire. About to upgrade another points dist and was wondering if the factory low volt wire would excite a relay. Thanks for the info.

 

[alwill923]

My so son has a 1984 truck with a 460 in it with a ford point dizzy and the ford blue box. I like this set up because the points only trigger the box so the current is very low and the points should last a long time.

But more important if the box fails you can always bypass the box and run off of the points to get home. I am not a fan of electronics. If a petronic or other type of electronic pickup fails you are stuck.

My falcon with a small 6 will have points and maybe a box I can bypass.

 

[powerband]

the simple bolt-in with the internal trigger module (HEI/Bosch?) sounds like reasonable priced upgrade for most driver applications.
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simplicity of DSI-DSII makes it a favorite:
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DS-I with 'Mustard' Distributor Cap / 12V coil and GM HEI module on Heat-Sync (w/spare module on bottom)
. .
,
test stand - 250 / DS-II / GM module

... 250 installed with TFI coil and programmable Rev Limiter HEI Module:
. . .
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have fun
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[chad]

hey! U got a pretty long history laid out there pb.

I’ve not seen a system (final schematic) with that late coil (lower right corner, above starting solenoid) before,

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may be a Q or 2?

Of the 4 sets in ur post (I use 2nd) the 4th has a hi fire coil (the hottest spark of your 4 systems, C Summit pic). Im seeing a "motorcraft dizzy”. Does this work w/the DSII? Is the plug off that (DSII) the y/blk/brwn wires? I’m not in the garage, dont remember (in fact dont remember if I got lrg or sm cap).
The 'gm 4 pin' seems replaced bya "H F I module" (which is ungrounded & programable)? May B there is a TFI on the back of that coil, I dont C it.
And
the red split wire from the ignition switch is not the ‘pink fuseable-link' style?
Thanks boss (always the one with the huge pic archive).

 

[Frank]

I’ve not seen a system (final schematic) with that late coil (lower right corner, above starting solenoid)

Yes the "E" coil will work with HEI or TFI wired to points or other distributor.
Vehicle 1) points, TFI module and cheap can coil
Vehicle 2) points, TFI module and E-type coil (shown below)
Vehicle 3) DS2 distributor, HEI module, cheap can coil

 

[powerband]

"the red split wire from the ignition switch is not the ‘pink fuseable-link' style?"
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yes , not 'pink', new wired from switch 'run' /w diode steering for switch 'start' solenoid direct B+ to module/coil .
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[chad]

boy, these R da tough ones (ignorant on autom. electrics - just follow schematics, or replace what I C ina car)
AND
2 simultaneous answers...

*- “...w/ diode steering for switch 'start' solenoid direct B+ to module/coil ...."
ok, I have a diode or 2. In that 4th ign system there’s one on the red wire after it branches to the solenoid to prevent back feed to the key/tumbler?
/OR/
way up where the red #6 wire changes to #2 at coil/4pin? Thnx pb~

^⬇︎ “...late model coil is called 'E-type'. U can use it w/TFI and points. The TFI also wrks w/oil filled can-style coil."
OK, was tryin to get the e-type w/the DSII system. This thread & TFI are not my direction, the DSII box/better the HEI module, are. Was it here or nother forum (I think nother) the guy ripped open close to 100 TFIs - most defective. He sussed it out to where one or 2 companies proved to make best. He showed (mechanically) Y it was better (heavier glue protecting a solder or sompin). Hafta admit, dont like points but these new ways might improve Y I dont like (replace, replace, replace). I also like what U show, Frank cuz no MSD box (dislike them too).

 

[Cox Custom Mechanical]

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