At wits end...
- Thread starter cfmustang
- Start date
Actually, I replaced the Load-a-matic today with a new remanufactured dizzy from a 1968 200 six. Whoa!
I can see now that my old dizzy was not advancing at all! Once I got this thing in, the vacuum advance is working like crazy. Now I wish I had a dial-back timing light to see how much it was advanceing.
The problem is, now i have to tune the carb again and it is much more difficult. I first timed it with the vacuum port disconnected and set it to 12 deg. Man did the idle seem to smooth way out. Then I had to play with the carb again to bring the idle way down. Once I got that right, I plugged the vacuum line back in and then the timing was WAY advanced. I couldn't tell for sure but I'm guessing well over 20 deg (but the idle was way high again, so I think that the vacuum was advanceing it).
Unfortunately, every time I got the idle back where it should be again, it would surge and stall. I had to play with the idle jet holder again to finally get the thing sort of idleing again and when I took it for a drive it was even worse. The first little bit of peddle travel had accelleration and then it would totally bog. If I pressed the pedle any futher, it was either backfiring through the carb or pinging once REALLY loud (I couldn't tell).
Any ideas now?
I am thinking that my idle jets are a big part of the problem. For one, the o-ring on the primary idle jet has crumbled to nothing and is gone. Also, it just appeared like most of my idle problems was that I was way too lean anyway (Thanks to mercman63 for the help with this!). I am going to order a rebuild kit for the o-rings and a jettng kit and see if I can get the idle sorted out.
Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
-Chris
I can see now that my old dizzy was not advancing at all! Once I got this thing in, the vacuum advance is working like crazy. Now I wish I had a dial-back timing light to see how much it was advanceing.
The problem is, now i have to tune the carb again and it is much more difficult. I first timed it with the vacuum port disconnected and set it to 12 deg. Man did the idle seem to smooth way out. Then I had to play with the carb again to bring the idle way down. Once I got that right, I plugged the vacuum line back in and then the timing was WAY advanced. I couldn't tell for sure but I'm guessing well over 20 deg (but the idle was way high again, so I think that the vacuum was advanceing it).
Unfortunately, every time I got the idle back where it should be again, it would surge and stall. I had to play with the idle jet holder again to finally get the thing sort of idleing again and when I took it for a drive it was even worse. The first little bit of peddle travel had accelleration and then it would totally bog. If I pressed the pedle any futher, it was either backfiring through the carb or pinging once REALLY loud (I couldn't tell).
Any ideas now?
I am thinking that my idle jets are a big part of the problem. For one, the o-ring on the primary idle jet has crumbled to nothing and is gone. Also, it just appeared like most of my idle problems was that I was way too lean anyway (Thanks to mercman63 for the help with this!). I am going to order a rebuild kit for the o-rings and a jettng kit and see if I can get the idle sorted out.
Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
-Chris
It sounds like you have several things tripping you up. Here's my theory. I wish I could see it to verify.
It sounds to me like there is a possibility that you are not getting enough fuel thru the idle circuit due to dirt or an adjustment way out of whack. You are having to open the throttle to get the fuel transition circuit to provide enough fuel for the engine to run, but that gives you too much air and opens the ported vacuum. You tinker with the timing to get the idle bakc down, but then it backfires because it is running too lean and too retarded. You can't find a sweet spot because you are constantly going over the line with either spark or fuel. Idle quality is poor and vacuum is low as a result. Bottom line, I think you need to get the idle fuel circuit working right before this is going to run well.
The idle jet holder is not an adjustment, I'm pretty sure. If you are having to loosen it to make the engine run, you are inducing an air or fuel leak. Something is wrong there. Your idle mixture is only set with the idle bleed screw at the base of the carb.
There is a possibility that the carb got some trash in it. It only takes a minute amount of dirt, rust, or metal shavings to clog an idle circuit.
What I would do first is to get some compressed air, carb cleaner, and a good set of instructions. Then disassemble the carb, cleaning and blowing out all the passages. Carefully reassemble and install a good filter right at the carb inlet to insure it stays clean.
I could be wrong on all this, but jetting is the last thing I would tackle. The idle adjustment screw provides enough lattitude that it will take most engines from way-too-lean to way-too-rich right out of the box unless the carb was installed on an engine way-too-small (lawn mower) or way-too-big (Big Block Chevy).
It sounds to me like there is a possibility that you are not getting enough fuel thru the idle circuit due to dirt or an adjustment way out of whack. You are having to open the throttle to get the fuel transition circuit to provide enough fuel for the engine to run, but that gives you too much air and opens the ported vacuum. You tinker with the timing to get the idle bakc down, but then it backfires because it is running too lean and too retarded. You can't find a sweet spot because you are constantly going over the line with either spark or fuel. Idle quality is poor and vacuum is low as a result. Bottom line, I think you need to get the idle fuel circuit working right before this is going to run well.
The idle jet holder is not an adjustment, I'm pretty sure. If you are having to loosen it to make the engine run, you are inducing an air or fuel leak. Something is wrong there. Your idle mixture is only set with the idle bleed screw at the base of the carb.
There is a possibility that the carb got some trash in it. It only takes a minute amount of dirt, rust, or metal shavings to clog an idle circuit.
What I would do first is to get some compressed air, carb cleaner, and a good set of instructions. Then disassemble the carb, cleaning and blowing out all the passages. Carefully reassemble and install a good filter right at the carb inlet to insure it stays clean.
I could be wrong on all this, but jetting is the last thing I would tackle. The idle adjustment screw provides enough lattitude that it will take most engines from way-too-lean to way-too-rich right out of the box unless the carb was installed on an engine way-too-small (lawn mower) or way-too-big (Big Block Chevy).
Interesting...
You may be on to something there. I pulled the jet and it looked clean, but the O-ring was crumbling apart. Perhaps some of the rubber from the o-ring got sucked into the idle circut and is partially blocking the passageway.
Ugh, is there a way to verify/recitfy this without tearing the carb apart? Maybe removing the idle mixture screw completely would let the obstruction pass through?
While changing the idle jets sounds easy and I might be adept enough to open up the top of the carb to replace the main jets, a total rebuild sounds out of my league...
-Chris
You may be on to something there. I pulled the jet and it looked clean, but the O-ring was crumbling apart. Perhaps some of the rubber from the o-ring got sucked into the idle circut and is partially blocking the passageway.
Ugh, is there a way to verify/recitfy this without tearing the carb apart? Maybe removing the idle mixture screw completely would let the obstruction pass through?
While changing the idle jets sounds easy and I might be adept enough to open up the top of the carb to replace the main jets, a total rebuild sounds out of my league...
-Chris
Sigh...
I got the rebuild kit last Wednesday, so I finally got under the hood yesterday to try and sort things out.
First, I removed the primary idle jet and the lean idle mixture screw and blasted a bunch of compressed air in there. Nothing came out but some gas. Then I replaced the o-rings on both idle jet holders and put the idle mixture screw back in to factory specifications. Same problem. I had to set the idle really high to keep the car running once the choke disengaged.
I was able to loosen the idle mixture screw all the way with no change till I actually pulled it out and then the engine stalled.
Next I replaced the primary (60) and secondary (50) idle jets with 65s in both. Tried again. Pretty much the same thing. Had to set the idle pretty high to keep it running. When I checked the timing, it was high (I am guessing 17 or 18 degrees because I don't have a dial back light). When I set it to about 13 degrees, I was able to back out the idle screw (alot - 4 to 5 turns) and get it sort of running at idle, but the idle screw is almost all the way in to get it so it will run in gear.
Once I took it on the street, it is worse than ever! Now I can only press the accelerator peddle an inch or so before the engine bogs completely or backfires though the carb REALLY loud.
I am completely stumped and am about to start taking offers on the car...
-Chris
I got the rebuild kit last Wednesday, so I finally got under the hood yesterday to try and sort things out.
First, I removed the primary idle jet and the lean idle mixture screw and blasted a bunch of compressed air in there. Nothing came out but some gas. Then I replaced the o-rings on both idle jet holders and put the idle mixture screw back in to factory specifications. Same problem. I had to set the idle really high to keep the car running once the choke disengaged.
I was able to loosen the idle mixture screw all the way with no change till I actually pulled it out and then the engine stalled.
Next I replaced the primary (60) and secondary (50) idle jets with 65s in both. Tried again. Pretty much the same thing. Had to set the idle pretty high to keep it running. When I checked the timing, it was high (I am guessing 17 or 18 degrees because I don't have a dial back light). When I set it to about 13 degrees, I was able to back out the idle screw (alot - 4 to 5 turns) and get it sort of running at idle, but the idle screw is almost all the way in to get it so it will run in gear.
Once I took it on the street, it is worse than ever! Now I can only press the accelerator peddle an inch or so before the engine bogs completely or backfires though the carb REALLY loud.
I am completely stumped and am about to start taking offers on the car...
-Chris
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Anonymous
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It still sounds like it could be a timing issue to me eventhough you replaced the distributor. Have you verified that the balancer has not slipped? Your spark may not be occurring at or near TDC as indicated by the mark on the balancer if the mark itself has slipped relative to true TDC.
When the timing is off, you often have to raise the idle speed in order to get the thing to run. This opens the the throttle plates too much such that adjusting the fuel mixture screws has inconsistent or no impact on the car's idle, because the carb is now functioning off of a different fuel circuit. The throttle plates (controlled by the idles speed screw) need to be closed or just slightly off fully closed or the idle circuit is defeated.
When the timing is off, you often have to raise the idle speed in order to get the thing to run. This opens the the throttle plates too much such that adjusting the fuel mixture screws has inconsistent or no impact on the car's idle, because the carb is now functioning off of a different fuel circuit. The throttle plates (controlled by the idles speed screw) need to be closed or just slightly off fully closed or the idle circuit is defeated.
No, I haven't verified the balancer. The engine has less than 200 miles on it since it was totally rebuilt so I didn't think that could be an issue.
How is this done? If it involves removing the timing cover (hence, the fan, radiator, etc) then I think I am done for the year. I already need to replace the radiator with a bigger, better cooling unit, but I am out of money for the year and don't see myself tearing it appart and putting it back together only to be taken apart again in the Spring.
If there is a easy way to verfy this, I am all ears.
I can say that if I retard the timing any more than 12 degrees, the idle drops significantly and dies.
-Chris
How is this done? If it involves removing the timing cover (hence, the fan, radiator, etc) then I think I am done for the year. I already need to replace the radiator with a bigger, better cooling unit, but I am out of money for the year and don't see myself tearing it appart and putting it back together only to be taken apart again in the Spring.
If there is a easy way to verfy this, I am all ears.
I can say that if I retard the timing any more than 12 degrees, the idle drops significantly and dies.
-Chris
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Anonymous
Guest
you dont have to remove the timing cover to change the balancer...I dont think...do you?
A
Anonymous
Guest
If the balancer was not replaced with a new unit on the rebuild it could have slipped after engine assembly and or the mehanic may not have bothered to verify the timing mark relative to piston's TDC.
No cost involved to check the balancer. Pull the #1 spark plug. Turn the engine by hand to TDC as indicated on the mark on the balancer pulley. Now look at the distributor cap and note the post position of the # 1 spark plug wire. Pull the cap, and the rotor should be pointing to that position or just prior to it by a matter of a few degrees. If not, rotate the engine 360 deg and check again. (Engine is at TDC on both compression stroke and exhaust stroke. It is the compression stroke when the distributor rotor should be aligned properly) Also place a long screw driver into the spark plug hole and turn the engine by hand and stop when the screw driver is at the top of the stroke. Check the pulley mark to verify that the ring has not slipped.
A slipped balancer and timing index mark may be the cause of retarded spark timing eventhough the timing light indicates it is set up properly. If you are in fact running with retarded or insufficient spark advance, then the combustion temperatures are also elevated and may explain the higher temps your cooling system is seeing. Get the timing fixed, and you may not need the new/bigger radiator.
No cost involved to check the balancer. Pull the #1 spark plug. Turn the engine by hand to TDC as indicated on the mark on the balancer pulley. Now look at the distributor cap and note the post position of the # 1 spark plug wire. Pull the cap, and the rotor should be pointing to that position or just prior to it by a matter of a few degrees. If not, rotate the engine 360 deg and check again. (Engine is at TDC on both compression stroke and exhaust stroke. It is the compression stroke when the distributor rotor should be aligned properly) Also place a long screw driver into the spark plug hole and turn the engine by hand and stop when the screw driver is at the top of the stroke. Check the pulley mark to verify that the ring has not slipped.
A slipped balancer and timing index mark may be the cause of retarded spark timing eventhough the timing light indicates it is set up properly. If you are in fact running with retarded or insufficient spark advance, then the combustion temperatures are also elevated and may explain the higher temps your cooling system is seeing. Get the timing fixed, and you may not need the new/bigger radiator.
A
Anonymous
Guest
cfm, you may have no choice but to tear the carb down and rebuild it. Take it apart and clean it all out. Did I read somewhere up the thread that you said it sat for a long time out of the car, and you just put it in and fired it up? That disintegrated O ring doesn't sound like a good sign to me.
I rebuilt the Holley carb on my 'mont when I first got it, and had some driveability problems to sort out after that. Wouldn't idle, bogged, no throttle response, etc. I was extra careful when I had done the rebuild, cleaned everything and made sure the work area was free of dirt.
Long story short, I took the carb back off the car and found a piece of lint (yeh, lint) in one of the passages. I got a can of compressed air and blew out every passage on that carb, and looked it over carefully before I buttoned it up and put it back on. Ran like a champ after that, still does, drive it every day.
It may not be that simple, but at least you'll be doing something constructive, and it'll give you a different focus for a while, to rest yer brain. Been there, done that.
I rebuilt the Holley carb on my 'mont when I first got it, and had some driveability problems to sort out after that. Wouldn't idle, bogged, no throttle response, etc. I was extra careful when I had done the rebuild, cleaned everything and made sure the work area was free of dirt.
Long story short, I took the carb back off the car and found a piece of lint (yeh, lint) in one of the passages. I got a can of compressed air and blew out every passage on that carb, and looked it over carefully before I buttoned it up and put it back on. Ran like a champ after that, still does, drive it every day.
It may not be that simple, but at least you'll be doing something constructive, and it'll give you a different focus for a while, to rest yer brain. Been there, done that.
I'd have to agree. You've got a new engine with a new distributor and the timing is set within reasonable specs. Assuming your vavles are properly adjusted and your cam timing is not off by a tooth (is it?), then your carb is the suspect. Especially since adjustments that should make a difference aren't.
In my experience with these carbs (this is a weber 32/36, right?) the stock idle jets are too small. Still, it will idle, just a little outside of the recommended adjustment range. Nevertheless, you upped the jet size with no difference. So, it sounds like it's time to rebuild. It may be intimidating, but you've been beating your head against this for a month with no progress, so it can't be worse than that. Another idea is to start fresh with a rebuilt carb from Stovebolt. That would eliminate all doubt. They're only $65 and he may give you some kind of core credit if you send him yours (take the big jets out first!).
For what it's worth, I had a similar experience with my weber 38/38 last year. Turned out to be a bad coil
. I won't tell you how much I spend on fuel pumps and pressure regulator, etc, etc before I figured that one out...
In my experience with these carbs (this is a weber 32/36, right?) the stock idle jets are too small. Still, it will idle, just a little outside of the recommended adjustment range. Nevertheless, you upped the jet size with no difference. So, it sounds like it's time to rebuild. It may be intimidating, but you've been beating your head against this for a month with no progress, so it can't be worse than that. Another idea is to start fresh with a rebuilt carb from Stovebolt. That would eliminate all doubt. They're only $65 and he may give you some kind of core credit if you send him yours (take the big jets out first!).
For what it's worth, I had a similar experience with my weber 38/38 last year. Turned out to be a bad coil
. I won't tell you how much I spend on fuel pumps and pressure regulator, etc, etc before I figured that one out...Actually, I have something else I want to try first. Mercman63 suggested that when I installed the new dizzy, I may have installed it one tooth off and I think he may be on the money.
When I installed it, I had no idea you could go off a tooth or two. I assumed as long as the rotor was pointing to the correct cylinder on the cap, it was fine. Between that and and the fact that many of the problems I am now running into (won't even run lower than 12 deg inital, backfires through the carb badly on acceleration, horrible idle at 12 degrees initial timing, etc) seem to be timing related, I have a feeling this is the source of a lot of my headaches! It is acting like the timing is severly retarded.
Unfortunatly, I don't have any time to readjust the dizzy till Saturday so I'll have to keep everyone posted.
Thanks for all the help, guys!
Chris
When I installed it, I had no idea you could go off a tooth or two. I assumed as long as the rotor was pointing to the correct cylinder on the cap, it was fine. Between that and and the fact that many of the problems I am now running into (won't even run lower than 12 deg inital, backfires through the carb badly on acceleration, horrible idle at 12 degrees initial timing, etc) seem to be timing related, I have a feeling this is the source of a lot of my headaches! It is acting like the timing is severly retarded.
Unfortunatly, I don't have any time to readjust the dizzy till Saturday so I'll have to keep everyone posted.
Thanks for all the help, guys!
Chris
Distributors aren't sensitive to actual position like a timing chain. If the timing is right, the timing is right. It doesn't matter where things are positioned regarding the vacuum can, etc.
I would actually counsel against rebuilding the carb, or dismantling it for now. If you can find someone with a distributor machine, get it tested, running with your module. Get your alternator tested, too (trust me on this one; they can develop funny characteristics sometimes). Then beg or borrow a good, running carb that will fit the motor, install it with the verified ignition, and see how it runs. If it's better, then your carb is a problem - at which point, it is time to acquire a full parts diagram, and carefully dismantle, inspect and reassemble the unit.
Regards, Adam.
I would actually counsel against rebuilding the carb, or dismantling it for now. If you can find someone with a distributor machine, get it tested, running with your module. Get your alternator tested, too (trust me on this one; they can develop funny characteristics sometimes). Then beg or borrow a good, running carb that will fit the motor, install it with the verified ignition, and see how it runs. If it's better, then your carb is a problem - at which point, it is time to acquire a full parts diagram, and carefully dismantle, inspect and reassemble the unit.
Regards, Adam.
But if the distributor is one or two teeth advanced, the timing wll be much lower than it reads. 12 degrees initial could actually be 6 (for example).
Granted, everything should be off by the same amount so it is just perception and I should be able to set it by ear, but I would prefer to get it correct so I can set the timing with a light and then tune from there. Right now, it would be absolute guess work to set the timing.
Unfortunatly, I don't have access to another carb and the budget is blown for a while. I had originally planned for the rebuld to cost half as much as it did (plus an having to completely rebuild all four brakes and a bad rear wheel bearing), so the coffers are bare.
A new carb would have to wait till at least Spring.
Granted, everything should be off by the same amount so it is just perception and I should be able to set it by ear, but I would prefer to get it correct so I can set the timing with a light and then tune from there. Right now, it would be absolute guess work to set the timing.
Unfortunatly, I don't have access to another carb and the budget is blown for a while. I had originally planned for the rebuld to cost half as much as it did (plus an having to completely rebuild all four brakes and a bad rear wheel bearing), so the coffers are bare.
A new carb would have to wait till at least Spring.
That's not a correct understanding about the teeth on the gear. Timing is determined by when the ignition fires relative to where the crank is.
Your ignition timing can be spot on, while the cam is completely mistimed. The only instance the ignition timing can be set "wrong" is when the balancer is not correctly indexed to the crank keyway (either by slippage or mis-manufacture). When using a timing light, the timing is deduced from the instant the spark travels the plug wire, which corresponds with the instant of the strobe illuminating the timing marker. As this happens about five times per second at idle, the flashes are easily enough read as constant illumination.
I will annoy a few people by saying that unless you're a skilled mechanic (maybe forty years practice), final timing by ear is a good way to lose accuracy. Setting timing by vacuum gauge has its place, but if the engine is fresh and the distributor curve reasonably close to the cam requirements, then the timing should be set with a strobe.
It doesn't matter how much the carb is chugging in fuel; the timing is set at the idle speed of the motor build (ie, flow characteristics, which are a combination of the head and cam). If you know that idle speed, and the advance curve is right, then the timing can be set. Further work on the carb may change the idle speed, but you then readjust the idle and the timing comes back to spec.
If you have the strobe type timing light and some details from the cam grinder, you should be able to get this much sorted!
Regards, Adam.
(I just edited some of the text where it seemed a little strident, on reflection.)
Your ignition timing can be spot on, while the cam is completely mistimed. The only instance the ignition timing can be set "wrong" is when the balancer is not correctly indexed to the crank keyway (either by slippage or mis-manufacture). When using a timing light, the timing is deduced from the instant the spark travels the plug wire, which corresponds with the instant of the strobe illuminating the timing marker. As this happens about five times per second at idle, the flashes are easily enough read as constant illumination.
I will annoy a few people by saying that unless you're a skilled mechanic (maybe forty years practice), final timing by ear is a good way to lose accuracy. Setting timing by vacuum gauge has its place, but if the engine is fresh and the distributor curve reasonably close to the cam requirements, then the timing should be set with a strobe.
It doesn't matter how much the carb is chugging in fuel; the timing is set at the idle speed of the motor build (ie, flow characteristics, which are a combination of the head and cam). If you know that idle speed, and the advance curve is right, then the timing can be set. Further work on the carb may change the idle speed, but you then readjust the idle and the timing comes back to spec.
If you have the strobe type timing light and some details from the cam grinder, you should be able to get this much sorted!
Regards, Adam.
(I just edited some of the text where it seemed a little strident, on reflection.)
I agree with Addo. I would be checking the cam timing about now. This really isn't very difficult to do and removes a big question from the equation, and I have had to troubleshoot engines that were not assembled correctly, so I know it can happen. If the cam timing is wrong you will have fits trying to tune it. I can drop a distributor in place with my eyes shut and then wire it so it runs fine. As long as the spark fires in the correct relationship to the crank it matters not one whit where the distributor gears are meshed, but the next guy that works on it may have to look at it twice to figure it out 
Joe
Joe
Selling it? That'd be a major sacrifice. It's not one anybody here is recommending.
All Joe and I are talking about is a measured, practical approach. Consider/investigate a possible problem, evaluate the results, cross it off the list. The same type process your mind whips through as you leave the house - lights, stove, keys... It hasn't helped here when you've been exposed to the odd misinformed remark.
Have you got a cam card? It would have come with the cam. Otherwise, try contacting the manufacturer for a copy. Post the info here, and we'll give some thoughts on it.
The car runs, drives. That's a fair win in my book. Plus, it's in good physical shape. What we can do here, is walk you through a few further logically sequenced operations with respect to your budget, that will get the problems narrowed down. That will enable you to either fix them straight away, or failing that, ameliorate the condition until repairs are affordable.
Adam.
All Joe and I are talking about is a measured, practical approach. Consider/investigate a possible problem, evaluate the results, cross it off the list. The same type process your mind whips through as you leave the house - lights, stove, keys... It hasn't helped here when you've been exposed to the odd misinformed remark.
Have you got a cam card? It would have come with the cam. Otherwise, try contacting the manufacturer for a copy. Post the info here, and we'll give some thoughts on it.
The car runs, drives. That's a fair win in my book. Plus, it's in good physical shape. What we can do here, is walk you through a few further logically sequenced operations with respect to your budget, that will get the problems narrowed down. That will enable you to either fix them straight away, or failing that, ameliorate the condition until repairs are affordable.
Adam.
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Anonymous
Guest
cfm, in the grand scheme of things, this is relatively minor.
Look at it this way: once you have it running the way you want it, and the way it should be, you'll enjoy it a lot more. You will forget about this mess every time you get in it and drive it down the road.
These cars/engines are easy to work on, and fairly easy to fix. They are good ones to cut your automotive teeth on. I'd say most of us learned how to wrench on cars back when these were kinda state of the art for the day. You gain an understanding of auto theory each time you conquer a problem.
Don't sell it, just walk thru the basic steps outlined by some of the masters on this forum. I myself don't claim to be a master, but I can fix most anything non computer related on my cars. The computer stuff needs tools I'm not willing to buy. Too much moola for me.
Look at it this way: once you have it running the way you want it, and the way it should be, you'll enjoy it a lot more. You will forget about this mess every time you get in it and drive it down the road.
These cars/engines are easy to work on, and fairly easy to fix. They are good ones to cut your automotive teeth on. I'd say most of us learned how to wrench on cars back when these were kinda state of the art for the day. You gain an understanding of auto theory each time you conquer a problem.
Don't sell it, just walk thru the basic steps outlined by some of the masters on this forum. I myself don't claim to be a master, but I can fix most anything non computer related on my cars. The computer stuff needs tools I'm not willing to buy. Too much moola for me.
Nope. Don't have the cam card. This cam was bought from Clifford over 10 years ago when the engine was rebuilt (incorrectly) the first time.
With the card, what would I do. Does it require pulling the timing cover and exposing the cam?
If it does, budget gets in the way again. I have pretty much decided that if I have to go that far, I am replacing the 272 (or possibly a 280 - it's a long story) with a milder grind - most likely a 264. While this cam ran fine before I did the head work, now that the head is breathing better it is just too rough with the automatic.
If I replace the cam, I will replace the dampener (more $$$). And, since the radiator would have to come out, I would replace that too (original and not up to cooling the engine now).
Chris
With the card, what would I do. Does it require pulling the timing cover and exposing the cam?
If it does, budget gets in the way again. I have pretty much decided that if I have to go that far, I am replacing the 272 (or possibly a 280 - it's a long story) with a milder grind - most likely a 264. While this cam ran fine before I did the head work, now that the head is breathing better it is just too rough with the automatic.
If I replace the cam, I will replace the dampener (more $$$). And, since the radiator would have to come out, I would replace that too (original and not up to cooling the engine now).
Chris
