At wits end...

[Anonymous]

Have you tried the basics yet--like verify your firing order. A while back i had a 6 that wouldn't run worth a crap and it turned out the dizzy cap that i just bought had the alignment stud wrong and since it had #1 cyl labeled on it things were wierd till i realized that #1 is supposed to be over here not over there. Have seen caps that were installed 180 out also. Sometimes a little thing can be a major hurdle.
Perhaps a trip to a pro might be in order.

 

[Anonymous]

However, I found I still had to turn out the idle mixture screw quite a bit to smooth out the idle and the idle screw has to be turned almost all the way to get it to idle.

Chris, do you have a water choke or electric choke?

Setting the choke on these carburetors has a tremendious impact on engine idle and tuneability. If the choke isn't set right, what you said will happen. Believe me, I have experienced this on a few occasions.

Also, I think I read somewhere on the 32/36 (not the Carter veriosn 5200), it's best to drill a small 1/8" dia. hole in teh primary choke plate. For some reason this helps in balancing out air pressure between the main body and air horn assembly. I've done this on two Webers' and it has made a difference in idle and take-off acceleration.

On another note, I can't remember if this is you but I have been corresponding with a forum member about Weber troubles and haven't been able to get their emails anymore. Apparently they were being filtered at the server, for some reason, and wouldn't allow me to view any responses to my emails. If this is you, my apologizes. Just send me a PM whenever you have a Weber related question. If this isn't you, again my apologizes for the confusion.

 

[66200i6]

Also, I think I read somewhere on the 32/36 (not the Carter veriosn 5200), it's best to drill a small 1/8" dia. hole in teh primary choke plate.

Be careful. The reasoning behind this practice is to allow additional air down the throat of the carb in order to get the edge of the throttle plate into the proper position to engage the idle circuit.

Audi had made this standard practice. The idea was to increase the flow rate to aid in air fuel mixing. So the size of the carb was a little small for the flow needed for the displacement. This shouldn’t have to be done with the 32/36 conversion on the 200. The primary on the 32/36 is almost identical to the 1100.

So unless you can identify that you are idling in the main circuit (been there done that) there is no need to drill that hole to allow the throttle plate to be adjusted down into the correct position.

Good luck, Ric.

 

[cfmustang]

I'll have to check that vac line to the transmission. I guess the best way to check is to cap it off and see if there is any difference, huh?

Like I said, things have gotten significantly better since the carb rebuild and some rejetting. I am still concerned at how for off my primary and secondary air correction jets are off from what is suggested. Not sure what those jets do, but it is bound to help.

As for timing, I guess I spoke out of turn. I was haveing a devil of a time before but that was when the carb was so screwed up. I'll have to see this weekend if I can get it better now that I am running better. It is going to be tough no matter what. It is a big cam (probably too much duration) so the vacuum is going to be low no matter what. Also, with the lope, the idle will have to be set pretty high at idle as well. I know every guide recommends keeping it between 700-900 but with my engine, not a chance. I am keeping it at 1200 now to be able to put it in gear and drive.

I am almost positive that the firing order is correct and the cap is oriented correctly, but it doesn't hurt to double-check.

Lastly, I did ready somewhere about drilling that hole. I swear it was on a weber site, but then I could never find it again. I though it was recommended for performance engines that were running low vacuum. The problem is, that is a rather permenant mod and if it doesn't help, could be serious trouble. Honestly, I am not even sure where the primary chock plate is.

How do you tell if you are idleing in the primary circut?

Stang200, I don't think we have talked before. I have pm'd in the past with DBzOkole, JOHN G & mercman63 about the Weber woes and all have been a great help. I'll keep you in mind as well.

Oh...it is an Electric choke. Is that even adjustable?

 

[JOHN G]

Mr. Stang200-I think twas me that you helped-Many thanks!!!

 

[cfmustang]

Thanks to you guys, I made a major discovery late last night.

I was taking the mustang out for a drive to fill up a low tire and the car was still running pretty bad. It was at least idleing now, though shaky at stoplights and was still barely shifting.

Remembering what John G said about the vacuum modulator for the tranny, I stopped by Autozone and bought a vacuum pump (it was about time I owned one anyway).

Well, I got home, popped the hood and hooked up the pump to the vacuum line running to the tranny and NOTHING...ZERO...ZILCH. That vacuum line has been sucking vacuum the whole time. I started the car up and put my finger over the other side of the line running to the engine and the idle smoothed right out. I didn't have time to crawl under the car to see if the line or modulator was shot or just disconnected, but this may be crux of most of my tuning problems.

I know people kept insisting I had a vac leak and I kept dissmissing it (I checked all around the engine, but not the tranny). That will teach me not to listen to you guys!!!

 

[pedal2themetal45]

Glade your making progress
tim

 

[JOHN G]

It's always what ya think it isn't! Vac problems cause all sorts of grief with tuning. I'm off Sundays/Mondays whenever ya want to get together. There are a couple of nice little cruise-ins around Middleburg Heights/Parma area during the week that are begging to be over-run by 6 cylinders! Glad to hear your running again!

 

[cfmustang]

I'm not out of the woods yet. I still have to find the time to crawl under the car and see what is wrong. Unfortunately, I am out of town all weekend again. Once that is sorted out, I'll have to start tuning from scratch....

Hopefully by next weekend.

 

[cfmustang]

AAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGG!

I am back where I started.

I got cocky last night and figured I would try and set the carb using the factory recommended steps since it was running smoother. All that did was put me back where I started with it idleing too slow even with the idle speed screw turned in about all the way it can go.

Tonight, I crawled underneath and found that the vacuum line to the tranny was completely disconnected. Now, I had already caped the line when I noticed that it was leaking vacuum, so plugging it back in did not help the idle, but when I took it out for a drive, it is at least shifting again.

When driving, I am okay as long as I am on the accellerator a bit. If I step on it, I have some real dead spots along the way of stepping on it and it was occasionally backfireing. When it idled, it was idleing so low and shaking that I had to keep it in neutral when at stoplights to keep it from stalling.

I just don't get it. I am offically out of my league and stumped.

 

[JOHN G]

Still sounds like jets are a bit small for the application-especially the idle jet. Is this an electric choke? If so, maybe a quick check with a test light to see if the choke is working-also, does this carb have an electric idle solenoid? If it does and there is no power to it, guess what? no fuel through the idle jet. Turning the idle screw all the way in will cause the carb to draw fuel through the main jet and may alow the car to run with the poor performance you stated-let me know.

 

[cfmustang]

John.

It is an electric choke, so I'll check that out when I get home from work. I was planning on adjusting it anyway, so might as well make sure it is even working.

As for the electric idle solenoid, I have no idea. I have never heard of it before. Maybe someone else here more familiar with the Weber 32/36 would know. I can say in all my research I have not heard of one.

 

[cfmustang]

The choke appears to be working. Now for the dumb question.

When the engine is cold, the choke is engaged correct? Which way are the choke plates? Horizontal (open) or verticle (closed)? Mine were kind of in the middle.

I let the engine warm up and made it so the were vertical. Didn't seem to make much of a difference. It was just when I set it so that they were closed, the engine would stall.

Also, on a hunch I disconnected that vacuum line to the tranny so that it was wide open and the idle actually seemed to speed up. So, it was, in a wierd way, idleing better with the vacuum leak. It was rougher, but at least I was not having to turn my idle screw in all the way to keep it running...