BAD TICKING!

[Anonymous]

Okay, here's the story (back ground information).

I completely rebuilt my 200 just a little over a year and half now. Everything was fine for the first couple of weeks and then I starting hearing a ticking sound coming from the front of the engine. I purchased an engine stethiscope to try and pin point the cause. Well, after trying several different ideas, mostly suggestions from you guys, I was able to pin point it to the exhaust lifter on the #1 cylinder. Surely lifters don't crap out that soon but sure enough when I pulled it out, the lifter had collapsed.

So, out with the old and in with the new. Once I changed out the lifter I reassembled the motor and life went on - until about three weeks ago.

Sometime in the past several of you helped me in determining my compression ratio and came up with something like 7.7:1 This didn't suprise me considering a previous owner had swapped heads with a later date and didn't consider a mill. Anyway, so I thought it was time to get it right, or at least as close as possible.

I got the head back this morning and reassembled the engine, again. Everything went smooth. As a matter of fact, the engine fired right up and ran the smoothest I had ever seen! But here's where it goes down hill again.

Like better I'm getting a ticking noise. Not just from one location - the entire engine it ticking! I adjusted the timing a few times and have it currently set to 10 deg. BTDC.

It sounds like the rocker arms are going to explode into a thousand different parts! Seems like most of the ticking is coming from the head this time and not the block.

Here is what I had shaved from the head - .055

The machinist said he didn't want to do the .070 I had requested because it looked like someone already milled it before. How would he know?

So, with a stock engine and '77 head milled to .055 (?) and a Fel pro gasket I should be somewhere around 9:1, right?

Help, please?



-Chris

P.S. Before the mill, the combustion chambers average 61cc. Oh, and I still have the stock rocker assembly.

 

[jimarlie]

You sure you have the right length pushrods and that the lifters are in correctly? Just my first thoughts.

Jim

 

[80broncoman]

Do you have a stock cam? If not check retainer to guide clearence, and also check to see if you are going in or getting very close to coil bind.
these are my thoughts.
Jim

 

[wsa111]

Chris, get a set of adjustable rocker arms, which will need different pushrods.
Install the adjustable rockers & go from there.
Also when the head was milled did you open up the passage-trough for rocker arm oiling on the left rear of the engine. When you mill the head that amount you normally have to go in with a grinder & open up the passage on the left rear head surface area. Keep us informed. William

 

[Anonymous]

Lifters in correctly? I thought you just drop them in place of the originals, I didn't know they went in upside or downside in any particular way.

I still have the stock camshaft. I would like to get a set of roller rockers but that extra cost is out of teh question for now. A replacement cam would be first then roller rockers.

Would bend rods cause the ticking? I remember my oldest accidently stepping on them when I had them out the have the head machined.



-Chris

 

[Anonymous]

Just realized something...lifters can only go in one way. If you put them in upside down, with the retainer ring down, then that would be a problem. I'm sure I haven't down that mistake.

Hmm...



-Chris

 

[Anonymous]

Fixed the problem. I didn't torque down the rocker arm enough! It was too lose allowing the arms to rattle around. Lesson learned!



-Chris

 

[addo]

35 foot-pounds is all!

 

[Anonymous]

Yes, I know. I had originally torqued it by hand (no torque wrench just socket wrench).

By-the-way, I found out my typical torque strength is pretty darn close to 35 lbs. Would have never quessed.



-Chris

P.S. Morning bud!