All Small Six Battery tray rusted

[gserafini]

So my car has pretty bad rust in the battery tray area. I’ve been driving it like this anyways but I feel like it’s a disaster waiting to happen. Anyone have thoughts about what to do about this for the time being? Can I just install a new battery tray or have to do body work to make it safe? I haven’t welded before, but my good friend is welder and would help me out if needed. Wondering how bad this is and what’s needed to do it right

 

[gserafini]

Also: ‘66 mustang 200 coupe

 

[Kritas]

I used the later modified '67 tray from NPD. It fits batteries without the foot.

Battery Tray Kit - 10732-1CPK - National Parts Depot

Buy Part#10732-1CPK - Battery Tray Kit

www.npdlink.com

 

[gserafini]

That looks great. But do I have to do any body work before installing this? Part of the wall looks rusted through and the corner floor too

 

[Cool23]

Clean off any old acid spills before you put in a new tray.

 

[Kritas]

That looks great. But do I have to do any body work before installing this? Part of the wall looks rusted through and the corner floor too

I replaced the inner fender panel as well due to rust. That will require some spot welding.

 

[DON]

I think they are bolted in from the underside, at least my 67 is. It is concerning that there is a hole in the front. Sometimes rust can look bad and still structurally sound. You could try to take if off, hit it with a wire brush/wheel. Then apply a rust inhibitor like linebacker. I used this on my boat trailer that got dipped in saltwater on every use. I sprayed everything that wasn’t aluminum, stainless or wood. Lug bolts were especially susceptible. This stuff worked great! Goes on wet, then dries to a waxy film. Surface rust actually helps hold it in place, where it’s needed, and kills it. This is not a restoration process, it is purely functional.

 

[Kritas]

The tray itself is bolted in and does not require welding.

 

[powerband]

.. mild baking soda wash will neutralize light acid spread
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suggest inspect the front frame rail and strut rod bracket for structural damage. the '61 looked like 'alien blood' went through it. readily available early Mustang repop' rad support and strut rod brackets were 'close' and fit with some simple fab'
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hav fun
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[DON]

Nice job! Looks good
It will probably go faster now with mustang parts on it

 

[gserafini]

Thanks everyone! I see that fender apron is an easy sheet metal part to get, but what about the hole in the front? What part of the frame would that be to fix?

 

[Kritas]

Thanks everyone! I see that fender apron is an easy sheet metal part to get, but what about the hole in the front? What part of the frame would that be to fix?

If you're referring to the area that I circled, I think the apron takes care of it. If there's rust on the radiator support, you have a few options in the NPD catalog depending on how large the repair needs to be. Small patches could be easily made up with sheet metal available from Tractor Supply and other places.

 

[gserafini]

If you're referring to the area that I circled, I think the apron takes care of it. If there's rust on the radiator support, you have a few options in the NPD catalog depending on how large the repair needs to be. Small patches could be easily made up with sheet metal available from Tractor Supply and other places.

View attachment 21539

Got it, thanks! If I could just patch the radiator support that would be awesome instead of the whole thing. The fender apron is going to be a big enough job haha

 

[Kritas]

Got it, thanks! If I could just patch the radiator support that would be awesome instead of the whole thing. The fender apron is going to be a big enough job haha

My support had about 1/2" of rust that I replaced using some leftover metal. I'm sure that everyone is curious about the red line in the pic. Well, the 'necks that painted the car years ago didn't bother to tape off anything behind the body panels. I mean, WHY WOULD YOU?!?

 

[TrickSix]

When I replaced the battery tray on my '66 Mustang there was an issue. The bolts at the bottom of the legs under the tray were blocked by the big bumper bracket, which was held on by big frozen nuts and bolts. The quick easy little job was suffering from mission creep. But the legs under my old rusty tray were in good shape yet, so I drilled out a few spot welds and just left them in place. I removed the legs from the new tray and bolted it in place using the old support leg bracket. With some area clean-up and paint, it all looks real good now.

 

[Kritas]

When I replaced the battery tray on my '66 Mustang there was an issue. The bolts at the bottom of the legs under the tray were blocked by the big bumper bracket, which was held on by big frozen nuts and bolts. The quick easy little job was suffering from mission creep. But the legs under my old rusty tray were in good shape yet, so I drilled out a few spot welds and just left them in place. I removed the legs from the new tray and bolted it in place using the old support leg bracket. With some area clean-up and paint, it all looks real good now.

When I bought my "solid" 66 Mustang, I figured I'd get it running and drive it. Getting it running was easy. Then I started with the "I'll do each section, but really do it right". That worked well and I completed the underbody, went through the rear end, etc. etc. Then I got to the floors which had some rust-through spots. That led me to....