best options?

Boedy1

Active member
Howdy fellas! So, after driving my old Ranchero for a little over a year now, my thoughts on building an engine have changed. Ya see, it has the 200 ci with a three on the column and I think it’s bone stock except for an electronic ignition to replace the points. The clutch is terrible, slips so bad that sometimes if I’m going pretty slow (like 35mp) in third gear and floor the pedal, it slips. Now don’t misunderstand, it will slip in all gears, I just used third to illustrate just how bad it slips. I have pretty large (at least for a Ranchero) AT tires, I think they are 28”, and I know these suck a lot of power.

But with all that said, I’m really not dying for more power. The great thing is, it’s my little pickup truck, and I don’t wanna go fast in it. It has plenty enough power to get the job done, I just need to address a few problems, and a slight power boost would be nice. But shoving in a 250 ci with all the bells and whistles just doesn’t seem needed to me anymore.

So, here’s the dealio: I have a cylinder head from an ’82 fairmont that is currently at the machinist where it is being cleaned up and shaved down by .070”. I will be putting this on my original 200 ci that is already in the car, it’s in great shape and doesn’t need a rebuild-so why do it? I’ll put in a mild cam designed for torque, and some headers. And I have a T-5 from a ’95 S-10 and have confirmed it has the good gear ratio and that modern driveline can make a clutch for me and it will work. I’ve also got an 8” rear end from a Maverick that will go in with either 3.50 or 3.80 gears. (remember, big tires)

Where I am stuck, is with the carb choice and cam. For the cam, I have no idea-none. Hydrolic, solid lifters, all that crap, I just simply don’t have a clue what would work for my application.

With the carb, I’m kicking myself in the arse for not getting the carb that was on the Fairmont. I just remember seeing all those vacuum hoses, and coupled that with the thinking at the time that I wanted to really get a lot of power from my 250 ci that I was going to build, and I thought I would have no use for it.

So what I have as far as carbs, is the original Autolite 1100 that is on my 200, but it needs a rebuild (leaking when I shut the engine off), and I have the Carter RBS from the 1975 250 ci sitting in my garage and will definitely need a rebuild too.

So, what’s the best 1v carb to run? Keeping in mind that my head is the good log head from ’82 so it has a big ole carb opening. Should I rebuild my Carter, buy a different 1v, purchase a 2v and get an adapter, or have the 2v modified to directly accept a 2v?

Which, speaking of modifying the log head- no one in my area will do it, so who would I send it to an how much does it cost?

I know, I’m wordy, sorry.

Thanks for your advice in advance.
 
Howdy Boedy:

I sure like your thinking on your Ranchero and your plan.

I think you'll like the Carter RBS you already own. Give it a good cleaning and a kit and give it a try. You will need to adapt a cross the engine cable linkage of some sort. I used the throttle system from a Maverick on my Roo; everything from the cable to the carb. I even used the later style valve cover that has "Powered by Ford" embossed on it. That valve cover has several brackets on top of it to anchor the cable. I was looking for the Maverick air cleaner system but went to a 2v conversion without finishing the RBS project. I did use the RBS with: 1st a '68 distributor for the correct vacuum advance as well as centrifugal. Then switched to a DuraSpark II system. The DS II worked best, but not until I got it recurved to fit my situation.

The RBS will give you slightly more CFM than your stock 1100, 185 to 215 cfm.

On the cam I'd go with a Hydraulic type, duration in the 256 degree range and .400" lift with valve springs to match. A stock '82 head, even with (At least) a three angle valve seat and valve bowl smoothing, won't be able to use more. So why add the stress. A bigger performance cam will begin to detract from the engines idle quality.

A couple of things that you may have already thought of and didn't mention are; putting a back-cut on the intake valves to help with low lift flow. Finding a set of adjustable rocker arms and pushrods. And last, a high quality, double row timing set on the new cam.

The Carter YF series of carbs offers some good choices as well. Sizes range from stock use in the '70s on the 200, 250, 240 big sixes as well as the 300 in pickups and trucks.

Thanks for sharing your project. Keep us updated on you choices and the project. Best of luck.

Adios, David
 
That sounds great David! Thanks a bunch. But what do you mean about the back-cut on the intake valves to help with low lift flow? Could you explain this a little further?

Plus, I’ve got the big crazy exhaust manifold from the ’82 where the catalytic converter is right there. I’m thinking about just taking all of the junk out of the inside, making a smooth transition into a 2.5" or 3” to connect it straight to an exhaust pipe an run it straight back and through a glass pack and call it a day with the exhaust. Thoughts? It sure would save some money.
 
See if you can find a decent exhaust manifold from a ~'78 vintage six.
There are also some reproductions on ebay.
 
"...a decent exhaust manifold..."
forgot where you're located... 'junk yards' I guess is the above idea.
They can also be sourced new at the auto-parts stores, on-line, etc.
A Fairmont, Ford or Falcon on-line 'club' (also used), model specific after-market manufacturers, Ebay (used too), AutoZone, Classic Inline (specific to this engine)...
 
i cant add much except that when it comes to cam selection, you want to choose one that works best in the rpm range your engine will spend 80% of its time in. since you want a street engine, you want a cam that works best in the 1000-4500 rpm range. you want a smooth idle quality as well. classicinlines has one that fits you engine nicely, actually two, but the one i recommend for your application is this one;

http://classicinlines.com/proddetail.as ... 264-HSP-10

the stated rpm range is a bit higher than what i would recommend, but i like this cam as it does everything you want it to do.

as for back cutting the valves, if you look at the stock valve, you will note that it has a 45 degree face. it then transitions sharply into a tulip shape. back cutting means to take the edge of that transition and cut a 30 degree angle to lessen that sharp transition and create a better flow pattern.
 
Howdy Back Boedy and all:

Looks like you got your questions answered. Along with the back cut, if you could spend sometime blending the transition from cast to machined in the bowl just under the intake valves, that would also help flow.

As for the exhaust, you can use the '82 cat manifold and modify it or a header pipe to make it work. Xtasy has described this adaptation in other posts. Try a search to find it. I suggest to find a '68 casting as they offer the best in extra metal for strength as well as fewer bungs and taps that will need to be capped or plugged. It will have a 2" outlet. Add a 2" exhaust system to it to finish it off.

On the cam, spend some time studying the options, engine characteristics, performance and prices. Most cam grinders just use V8 patterns for their six cylinder engines. C.I.s are designed for inline six cylinder engines. FYI.

Have you made a decision on what carb to use?

Adios, David
 
Figured I’d finally get it together and post a pic of Julio, so here he is getting washed up. I will be clear coating him soon, trying to prep for that. I love the patina.

David, I want to give my Carter a shot as you suggested, but I’m not sure if it’s worth the effort. The plastic thing on the side is all busted up and it has a lot of corrosion on the insides. What is really hindering my decision is that I can get the Holley 1946 that was used on the 1982 from Rock Auto for just $195. Seems like a good deal. Or the one for the 1975 Maverick they have listed as a C-1 YFA and this is only $136. Is this the same as my Carter RMS? And out of these two, which is better?

But it will definitely be one of these. For now though, I’m trying to figure out what I’m gonna do about the floorboards. The little truck has a near perfect body, but the floorboards and hidden compartment in the bed is total trash! Someone tried to fix it before, but I am positive they made it worse. They used all sorts of tar stuff, small pieces of sheet metal, and even spray foam. Yes, spray foam. AHRR!

As far as the manifold goes, I new I had read on here that someone used to use the big goofy ones in racing applications. I’ll search Xtacy’s posts.

Oh, and that’s not me washing it by the way. Just sayin’.

Boedy


866332_49e6d66a811c4b038100f043b3d0eeb3.jpg_srz_592_442_75_22_0.50_1.20_0.00_jpg_srz
 
Howdy Back:

Well, a rebuild kit and some carb cleaner couldn't be more than $40. I'd give the RBS a try If I were you. It's only money, your money. In my humble opinion, the #1946 carb is a complex carb that Ford used to try to crutch epa requirements; extra thermo, vacuum and limits on adjustability. The Carter YF is a good choice, but, again, I'd look for a good core and rebuild it my self. The lessons will be worth it. A Carter YF from a 250 or a 240 engine will be a good get.

I understand about the floors and the footwells in the bed. I had to redo mine also. Be sure to take a good look at the cowl intakes as that's usually where the water comes from. Great photo. Thanks.

Adios, David
 
Okay, so I just ordered all I could think that the RBS could possibly need on Rock Auto. Parts where $40 and shipping was a whopping $20. Still not bad though. So I’ll give it a try.

As far as the floor pans JackFish, oh I know where to get them, but the hidden compartment in the bed can’t be purchased new. I’ll have to make it all from scratch and it will be a big job. Plus, it’s rusted so bad that even the new floor pans probably won’t cover everything. I’ll have to do a lot of fabrication. Big job, lots of time, and not exactly cheap either.

Lots going on with this truck, hard to figure out where to start cause everything depends on something else. Like the transmission for example. If I was just gonna put in the transmission, it’d be no problem. But along with the transmission comes the conversion of a T-5, which means my 2.79 gears have gotta go, which means I might as well buy the new gears for the 8” rear end I’ve got, which means that I might as well make it a posi while it’s apart. And then, I’m cutting a hole in the floorboard for the 5-speed shifter, which means- Hey, I should really replace these rusted out floorboards while I’m at it, which leads to, well I can’t replace them without replacing all the sheet metal in the bed compartment, which means………HOLY CRAP, that’s a lot of work to change a stinking transmission!

See.
 
The 1964 & 65 Ranchero's will use the same floor pans or foot wells (under the bed) as the 2 door Station Wagion so you might also be able to find some good used ones in a wrecking yard. Good luck
 
Looks like Bubba was able to relocate BUT he still aint in an area like "back East". No yards round me (Northeast) got 50 yr old parts. ATL. seems bout the same?
Hey Bubs, how ya like the new place?

Boedy! I like the way you think! Yes, the knee bone is connected to the hip bone, U just gotta do things in phases, less ur richer than me...
8^0
Just takes some planning. Carter RBS - if the bore is the right size (if not a lill 'relief' might B in store).
 
You are correct Chad, not many cars around here to salvage from. I have two that have something older every once in a while, but pickin’s are very slim. I talked to the shop that’s letting me rent a booth to paint in, might be able to get in there sometime next week to clear coat. REALLY looking forward to that, and hoping it will turn out great. So many things to do, yet so little money…….Ahhh, at least I don’t have a car payment on it!


Boedy
 
i have a working autolite 1101 carb and a few jets, you would need to find a throttle lever for it. you can have it if you are interested just pay for shipping :nod:
 
Howdy fellas,
So I had Julio dyno'd with the bad clutch and all. I couldn't just floor it cause the clutch kept slipping really bad, I had to roll on the throttle and it would still slip. With that said, he still got 70 hp and 110 ft lbs of torque, so I was surprised. Anyway, now I have a baseline to work with. I'm going to give the Carter Rbs a shot, but the original aluminum adapter is shattered into 4 pieces. I've got some 1/2 inch aluminum flat stock that I am fixin to cut into to make a new one, but here's my question:

Do I need to worry about those two ports coming out of the sides of the adapter? What are they for?
 
Instead of spending money on a cam, how about advancing the one you have about 4 degrees? Not sure the procedure for the small sixes, but it must be doable. That will give you the torque you're looking for.
Question on the exh. manifolds. A '78 was mentioned. Are they all air injection? Would the hassle of eliminating the air tubes be worth the hassle? Or is smoothing out the stocker a better/easier way to go? Not trying to hijack, just trying to do a stock, low budget job meself
 
It is common to the 78 Fox 3.3's to run dimensionally bigger cast iron rods. They are firstly inferior quality to the earlier and later forged rods.

For this reason, don't advance 4 degrees unless you've checked for clearance at the rods to cam parts at Number 4 piston. This involves sump removal, and some cam degreeing detective work. Its complicated, but doable if you know how.

viewtopic.php?t=65908

See parkwood60's post on this facebook post. Evidence from me and other long time posters here at Ford Six Performance is that anytime a rod bolt or rod face gets close to the cam, it can explode the whole engine, and such failures do occur commonly on older engines that have are subject to a large amount of detonation or timing chain scatter.

Both 200's
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 869&type=1

and 250's,
xctasy":35sp3hx0 said:
.....
The Aussie 250 can run to 7500 rpm.

Although this one didn't


Legoutabed.jpg


http://www.fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=195427

not just cast iron rod ones either.


She Blowed up real good Three?

Gorsh!

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 869&type=1

drag-200stang":35sp3hx0 said:
I do not think that the piston was at fault. What I see is broken late model cast rods,and unbroken early forged rods. Itis possible that the cam got out of time and the rods hit the cam,but the forged rods would just bend. Cast rods are a lot heaver,but they use a lighter pin.
 
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