Block cooling..

[rf8-gt1]

I been looking around to see how I can balance the cooling between 1st and 6th cylinders. Since 1st always burns cooler than the 6th.

I am open to any methods used to help the inline 6 length.

Thanks.

 

[Thad]

Some the NASCAR install external plumbing. Drill and tap water jacket and install fittings and line, from front cylinders to back. 3/8 - 1/2" ? don't know size.

 

[rf8-gt1]

sounds interesting.

I have heard you take the rear of the head with the coolant freeze plug out, put a fitting and hose that runs to the front of the block where another fitting is in place of the frost plug hole.

 

[addo]

How hard-core do you want to go? Coolant redistribution is a help, so too would be EFI.

Cheers, Adam.

 

[rf8-gt1]

efi already exists for this. Coolant redistribution? As an external pump, maybe a surge tank, and pipes to introduce coolant into the block?

 

[addo]

EFI already - so it's a truck six, not a small six?

Well, you could map head and block temperatures with a bunch of thermocouples - or just run it under differing conditions then quickly hop out and take spot temperatures with the laser pyrometer.

I don't think you'd need an auxiliary pump, just supplementary feeds/outlets along the head. It's worth noting how many transverse engines have the thermostat at the opposite end to the water pump... Any room to achieve this?

 

[rf8-gt1]

the thermostat is right before the the pump, after the pump there is a gallary along hotside of the block, at each cylinder is a 1 inch opening. On the cool side of the head there are 3 exits that dump into the intake assembly.. to be taken back to the radiator..

might be possible to bring an extra return at the end of the head to a sump and the sump to the radiator.

 

[quaddriver]

well what I'd do is take off the head and partially block the front block/head transfer holes, to restrict front flow and leave the rest for the rear.

does this work you ask?

do it on v8s all the time

 

[Asa]

well what I'd do is take off the head and partially block the front block/head transfer holes, to restrict front flow and leave the rest for the rear.

does this work you ask?

do it on v8s all the time

if he's doing enough of a performance build that he is concerned with the difference between #1 and #6, i doubt he wants to restrict the coolant flow

 

[quaddriver]

if he's doing enough of a performance build that he is concerned with the difference between #1 and #6, i doubt he wants to restrict the coolant flow

the coolest water is that which is just freshly sucked in by the pump.

since you would want all water in the head at the same temp, by restricting the closer cylinders to less cooler water, the BTU scavaging is essentially the same as cylinders that get more, warmer water.

like I said, do it all the time, its not new science.

Id do it before I started drilling and tapping freeze plugs to run some sort of piping that may or maynot (most likely not) flow at all.

 

[rf8-gt1]

it would make sense if the coolant came back out the block, but due the way the block flows by restricting the coolant for the first or second can actually hinder it's ability to cool. Especially at the cool side of the engine, because coolant enters hotside and exits both cool and hotside of block to the head.

I think the best way would be to open the rear of the head for a fourth exit, then have it run to a swirl pot sump, run a connection to the return line to the radiator, and one to the coolant balance tube, where the pump sucks from. This should help flow for #6 and drasticly improve flow for the entire block.

my concern for equal cooling is due to turbo charging application as well as high rpms used after this build.

I believe a combination of ceramic coating the pistons and the combustion chamber heads and block cooling, will ensure an equal burn.

 

[300nut]

I use to play around with 2.2 Mopars which had similar problems,the
number 4 cylinder ran quite abit warmer than the other 3. I ran a small
hose from the back of the head to the water pump inlet where I drilled a hole and tapped it for a barb fitting for the hose. It dropped the temp
quite a bit. They were turbo engines.

 

[StrangeRanger]

How much boost are you planning on running?

If it's more than 6-8 PSI or thereabouts (and it sounds like it is), how are you planning on keeping the head gasket in place? FTF has blown them out of his high compression N/A race engine with a greater regularity than he would like and does not have a completely satisfactory solution to the problem; a high boost level could only aggravate the situation.

 

[rf8-gt1]

15 - 20 psi or more.. not uncommon, using a multilayer metal gasket and some L19 head bolts.