carb problem

[havoline]

Well, it had a good run for about 6.5 years without being touched once.

It happened one time before but when I drove my car about a month after it first happened it happened again: hesitation, the smell of fuel, and it wanting to die unless I hit the gas pedal at stop lights to keep the rpm from going too low. Stuck float is what I think it is. Am I right? If so what can I do? I have a spare carb but it doesnt really work well at all meaning when I installed it my vacuum gauge was all over the place and the rpm fluxuated by about +-200 rpm even after I messed with the idle speed and mixture screws.

Do I need a new carb? I prefer not to get a new carb since they are so expensive these days and I got this one for only 130 but that was in 2002. So again any thoughts or suggestions?

 

[grocery getter]

hesitation usually leads to a vacuum leak,look for a cracked vacuum hose.
the smell of fuel would lead me to look at a flooding situation. are you pouring black smoke out?

if there is no vacuum leak. check the float it could have a crack. take it out and shake it. if there is fuel in it,replace it.

also, are you running points ? if so, how's the gap ?

 

[LaGrasta]

Not saying you need a carb, but most any parts store has a rebuilt for less than $100. People will tell you they aren't built so well, but that's all I've ever run with no real problems.

For a more hands on approach, try a rebuild kit for $20 and a new fuel filter and see where you stand. You haven't touched it in so many years, spend a little money and give it a good tune-up or better yet, install Pertronix for a real kick in the pants. It too is only about $100 and takes 20 minutes to install. Combined with a high voltage $20 coil (JC Whitney), plugs and wires, you'll swear you have a new engine.

 

[jamyers]

Could be trash in the fuel inlet valve.

Not much reason to replace a carb, especially if it's been working well before. Most replacement carbs are absolute garbage anymore, unless you spring for the ponycarb $$$ route.

Carbs are easy to rebuild yourself, kits generally run about $20, and it'll take a couple of hours start-to-finish.

Which carb do you have?

 

[JackFish]

Check for a stuck choke.
Or is it a manual choke?

 

[havoline]

should have been more clear on what I meant on by not touching my carb. Meaning that I didnt do more than just adjust the mixture two or three times a year tops. My ignition is fine, but I should put on pertronix ignitor because I do have one in my garage. Hesitant on doing so because I have heard some issues on here that the ignitors can go bad all of a sudden, and I didnt want to mess with something that wasnt broken because my car fires up very well still.

I have a autolite 1101 carb, automatic choke that works. I thought it was a vacuum line issue but it wasnt since I changed it completely. Fuel filter isnt the issue since last year I changed it and havent put much on my car and it runs great on the highway but after about 7-10 seconds after I take my foot off the gas it runs bad and almost wants to die. and when the car does die on me I smell gas and see some of it too dripping abit under the carb. and when I attempt to start the car right away it feels like it wants to start but it doesnt and I still smell the gas. 20 min after the car has sat and if I press the gas pedal down abit to open the valve in the carb it will start. overnight sitting the car starts without a problem.

I hope this clears things up about my carb issue.

Plus I never have rebuilt a carb before. And I have a spare carb I can use for parts I suppose since it doesnt work well and I have never really used it (fresh out of box from long time ago). Any useful advice or mentoring anyone can offer of how to rebuild this carb? Instructions? Pics?

 

[JackFish]

It could be something as simple as the screws that hold the carb halves together coming a bit loose.

 

[ludwig]

Check all your hoses, especially the fuel hoses feeding the carb. I had a leak and replaced the rubber. However, I go for the float/needle valve problem.

If you have a spare carb around, why not practice rebuilding it. That way you will learn something and not mess up something else. Then, one day when you are feeling bold, you can swap them out and see if there is any change. Bet there will be, one way or another.

 

[jamyers]

The 1100/1101 is a really simple carb to take apart, you can even take just the top off and check out inside the bowl for trash.

I'd suggest you play with your spare one to see how it fits together, then get a rebuild kit and dive in. Lay out some newspaper, then lay each part out just like it comes off the carb. Get some spray carb cleaner, and blast out all the holes and passages. The kit instructions will walk you through any adjustments as you reassemble it.

Heck, here is a pretty good set of rebuild instructions. http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/manu ... ndexf1.htm

 

[ludwig]

I was going to post more last night but the router conked. Here is the rest:

However, I go for the float/needle valve problem. The fact that it won't start and the gas runs over after it is running makes me think it is flooding, especially when it starts fine after sitting all night.

Flooding means that gas has drenched the cylinders - for whatever reason - and this snuffs the spark. Without fire, there is no ignition. The cure is to let it sit a while, anywhere from a minimum of 5 minute (which always feels like forever) to ten or more (an eternity).

You also have to get the automatic choke off when it is flooded because it now needs air and the choke blocks air entry. No air, no ignition. The auto choke pull off works through heat and the darn thing won’t warm up if it is not running. Block the choke flap open with a pencil or something similar. I use a roll of Necco wafers. Always have them in my car. (Whoop. Just kidding (about using them).)

If you have a spare carb around, why not practice rebuilding it, especially the float and needle valve adjustment. In my experience, this is done upside down and is measured with a little paper gauge. Hard to do right the first time, but this way you will learn something and not mess up something else. Then, one day when you are feeling bold, you can swap them out and see if there is any change. Bet there will be, one way or another.

I bet your float is not floating. Either it is a hollow brass one that developed a pinhole or - more likely these days with E85 - it is a foam or hollow PVC float and it melted from the alcohol part of the fuel.

 

[fordconvert]

Have you been through more than one tank of fuel since this started? My old cars act like that if I buy gas from one of the 'greener' local chain stores. Almost all the fuel in my area is suposedly 10% bends but its only that one brand that has consistent issues. There is always just plain old bad gas. Are you using a clear fuel filter or did you cut open the old one? If not how can you be sure its fine? Same with the points (although ignition would not cause fuel to leak out the carb).

 

[BIGREDRASA]

Take the top of the carb (airhorn) off. First, take photos from every angle, then remove the airhorn. It's pretty easy. Any of the common repair manuals will give you the float settings. Toss out the plastic float and replace it with brass. Doble check float settings. Never had any problems with brass floats in over 45 years of tinkering.

 

[engineer36]

had the same problem, the brass float has a hole it. does anyone know where i can get a float for the 1100

 

[BIGREDRASA]

For a temp fix, epoxy or solder the hole. (If it's a pinhole.)