Howdy Blue:
Rule # 1- a good carb tune-up always starts with the ignition.
Rule # 2 - if it ran good before and doesn't now it is not likely due to carb setting or adjustments changing.
It is very likely that you have several problems from your description of symptoms. Given a '64 Fairlane 170 I am assuming an Autolite 1100 with a Spark Control Valve (SCV) and a Load-o-Matic distributor.
Start by making sure that your ignition is in tip-top shape for reliable results. Spark plugs are clean and properly gapped. Plug wires are in good shape. The distributor cap and rotor are in good shape. While the cap is off, make sure the springs are in good shape and the internal advance mechanism is working freely. Make sure- The points are fresh and properly gapped, the vacuum advance diaphram is working properly, the metal line or hose from the distributor vacuum canister is connected and tight- both at the distributor end and the carb end. Once these things are addresses it is a time to reassess the problems. These changes may have; not changed anything, helped some, or fixed the problem- depending. These fixes could address your sympton #2.
Once this is done, verify that the initial timing is accurate. You didn't say whether this is an auto or manual trans. IIRC the manual calls for 6 degrees of advance, the auto calls for 12. Another reassessment. If problems still exist-
Check the carb thoroughly for leaks, vacuum or gas. Stop any leaks. How long has it been since this carb has been rebuilt? You said that is a daily driver so anything over three years is pushing it- especially with the accelerator pump function and crude build-up. A good spray down, both internal and external, with carb cleaner will be a start, but the ultimate solution may be a rebuild and cleaning. A new SCV will be in the rebuild kit and may be a part of a improper internal ignition advance. The SCV can simply quit working.
Start by checking the function of the choke. Make sure the heat stove pipe, from the exhaust manifold to the carb, is in place and working. Make sure the choke valve opens completely and as soon as possible. Spray the choke mechanisms and linkage down with carb cleaner and manually work to free it up. Running a gas system cleaner through the tank periodically is a good idea too. Since this is a Fairlane I'm assuming an automatic choke. This process usually takes several cold starts while observing the automatic choke opening. Set the choke as lean as possible. Time to reassess again. This is likely the cause of symptons #1 & 3.
Reread the section in your shop manual on setting the choke.
Also make sure that your air and gas filters are fresh and that the tailpipe is not obstructed or plugged.
Now you are ready to tune your carb. How about checking out the above stuff, rereading your shop manual on carb tuning and settings and then reporting back on your progress. Look closely at the sections on choke setting, accelerator pump setting, idle fuel mixture screw setting, idle and anti-stall dashpot adjustment, if you have an auto trans.
I'll be looking forward to hearing from you.
Adios, David
