clarification please.

[Anonymous]

Well, this is an update to my 'newbies first post' last week.
as of today I have installed the new balancer, a Pertronix II, and flamethrower coil and a new fuel sending unit. I have sucessfully stopped the fuel leaks in and around the carb, set the timing to factory specs 6* BDC (it was WAY off, could not see it with the light) and run the car for about 45mins with no major problems or leaks.
I need Clarification on the timing, some of the past post say: advance the timing until the car begins to ping, then back off ( I think I read the same advice from the people at pony carbs). Others say use a timing light. I perfer to use the light, but do I still advance the timing until it pings or set to factory?
NEXT: as for determining TDC, If your dizzy is 180 out, would it not be visually obvious? If the rotor is pointing to the NUMBER 1 plug on each stroke, how could it be 180 out unless it is installed that way?
Finally, is there a post or a guide available that will walk me through the tuning steps: IE timing, carb adjustment. which are done first, next and last?
thanks,

 

[CobraSix]

Setting timing is a personal thing. Some people like to advance the timing as much as possible, thus the "advance until pinging". That will give you max power, but make emissions and fuel consumption worse. Personally, I set my timing at 10* BTDC for everything, but I make sure to use the vacuum advance part of it.

The part about being 180* out is this...remember, the cylinder it TDC at two points in the rotation of the engine. You want the rotor at #1 position on the TDC of the compression stroke. Sometimes that can be reversed and positioned on the TDC of the exhaust stroke, hence, 180* out on the timing since the cam RPM is 1/2 engine RPM.

As far as what to tune and how, Try searching, there is a lot here.

Generally, try doing your timing first, then you're carb, but you'll find that you usually have to do both together, especially if your car is really out of whack.

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

slade,
thanks, I will keep playing with it till I get it dialed in.
I understand now, the rotor is to point to the no 1 position on the compression stroke. Thats easy enought to verify, what would the symptoms be if the Dizzy is 180* out?
I found ALOT of black, gritty soot on my pistons when I was verifing that the balancer had slipped, though I never had black smoke from the tail pipe, could this indicate the 180 out problem, or just that my timing was way off?
thanks again, this forum as been a life saver for me.
George.

 

[CobraSix]

It's normal...especially for #1 and 6 cylinders on these cars.

180* out will usually backfire through the carb, and not run.

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

180* out will usually backfire through the carb, and not run.

I can vouch for that comment. Just ask me how I know.


-Chris

 

[Anonymous]

did you lose an eyebrow? nose hairs?

 

[Anonymous]

Well, that should be easy enough to detect, and nope not having that problem. Now its out for a short test drive to see how she does.
A little driving, a little adjusting, a little driving ..... well you get the picture,
speaking of pictures hope to have them today, gotta get batteries for the camera.
george.

 

[Anonymous]

get rechargables....

never worry about it again..plus, with us guys, the charging station is like a machine so we actually pay attention to it

plus, for all you couch potoates...never be without a fully charged remote again

 

[Anonymous]

No, I didn't lose anything but it was very scary!

Besides, even if I did do you think I tell you guys?


-Chris

 

[pedal2themetal45]

HI GORGE
It well only be pointing to the #1 wire once for every two turns of the crank.. On the crank the timming mark well line up twice, One turn of the crank well be the top of the exghust stroke (180 deg. off) and the next well be the top of the compression stroke or TDC. The crank well turn twice for every one turn of the dizzy.
hope this helps clear it up for ya..
The black souty could be to rich. or your timming way off as it was..
Tim