Click when turning ignition switch on?

[ludwig]

Yes, and it is the quality of the contact that is important. Buff all the rust off the contact surfaces with sandpaper or a brush where there is a ground to ensure the continuity.

 

[Canary94GT]

So I could wrap this wire with electrical tape and call it good (for now) and replace it soon, but not ASAP?

 

[jamyers]

I'd replace it asap. That ground strap carries a lot of current when you're starting. I've gone so far as to add a second engine ground using an old battery cable. Seems like whenever I've had a wierd electrical issue, it's a ground.

 

[Canary94GT]

Ok will do.

By the way, I tested the resistance of the S wire on the end connected to the solenoid to ground and got ~0 ohms. I was told this means the wire is shorted to ground somewhere?

 

[Canary94GT]

Alright, I have 12V at the ignition switch.

Now my problem must be between there and the solenoid. Does anyone know how to disconnect the main wiring harness from the firewall?

 

[ludwig]

http://midlife66.com/wiring/66ignit.jpg

Check this diagram. There are two blocks at the firewall. You can unplug one of them.

 

[sixpony]

Very possible the start wire is shorted somewhere but you could be getting backfeed through the key switch, unplug the firewall connector and then check the s wire, if it reads "infinite" resistance, then you know the short is not in that part of the harness, inspect the harness where it runs along the firewall and across the shock tower brace to the solenoid,also give you a chance to take a good look at the firewall connector. When I bought my ol pony it had sat in a barn for 10 yrs, it had a broken pin on the alternator 3 pin connector and no power to the ignition switch because of a broken wire INSIDE the frame where it runs under the radiator,clean break with a patina of corrosion on both ends, now tell me how that happened, time can do strange things to wiring.

 

[sixpony]

Alright, I have 12V at the ignition switch.

Now my problem must be between there and the solenoid. Does anyone know how to disconnect the main wiring harness from the firewall?

As far as I could tell there had never been any locking tabs on the plugs, friction fit only just wiggle gently and pull, (please no comments from the terminally juvenile!lol) :rolflmao:

 

[Canary94GT]

Ok thanks, I'll try to wiggle off that connector.

sixpony, by the alternator 3 pin, you mean the thing that connects to the regulator? I notice one of my 4 pin sockets on my regulator connector seems to be missing, though I can't say if it was ever there.

 

[Canary94GT]

Ok so I finally wiggled the left firewall connector off. With the battery disconnected and the ignition off, I tested the resistance between the S term wire (at the solenoid) and the different terminals of the connector at the firewall. At least one of them has 0 ohms of resistance, and at least a couple more have like 200 ohms of resistance.

Does this make sense?

If it doesn't, then is it possible the wiring harness melted somewhere and fused some wires together?

 

[714 mustang]

word of advice only buy (Standard Motor Products) brand made in usa parts i bought a china starter relay when i was young a stupid it cracked in half as soon as i hit the starter and creamed my ring gear i took it back to kregan and hurled it in the parts department almost hit the manger and got the hell outa there never to go back

 

[Canary94GT]

Sorry for the triple-post, but

IT STARTS!!!!

I realized after my last post that those two terminals that I got 200 resistance on are the oil pressure sensor and the engine temerature sensor, which are grounded to the engine.

Then I went searching for more wiring diagrams because I found that two of mine disagreed with each other on the S and I wire colors.

I found another wire diagram that said brown on I and red-blue on S. Turns out this demo wiring diagram I downloaded is incorrect, so I had those two mixed up. Switched them back and she fired right up. Now I'm waiting for my dad to get home so we can listen for oil returning to the rockers and see if the starter is still running.

 

[ludwig]

You'll know if the starter is still running. You can hear it running. Put another way, you can hear it stop running once the engine is running. If you don't have motor whine, it is not running.

 

[Canary94GT]

Ok thanks, I'll also try to check if there is voltage at the starter just to make sure.

 

[Explorer]

Good work! Look at all the experience you gained.

 

[Canary94GT]

Everything looks good.

I did learn A LOT about my whole electrical system and its components. Thank you very much everyone who helped.

 

[Mercury Mike]

Hey Canary!
Hate to say I told you so... but... I told you so!!!

It's usually the simple things. If only you'd have gone out and tried that when I told you to!

Hahaha!

I'm happy for you.

 

[Lazy JW]

I'd replace it asap. That ground strap carries a lot of current when you're starting. I've gone so far as to add a second engine ground using an old battery cable. Seems like whenever I've had a wierd electrical issue, it's a ground.

He was referring to the ground strap that goes from the engine to the firewall; it had better NOT be carrying significant current while cranking!

That said, there is no such thing as too much ground.
Joe

 

[Lazy JW]

....Electrical problems are the worst thing for most people.

Electrical problems are the worst thing for all people. The beings who enjoy tracking down electrical SNAFUs are mutants.

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Explorer]

I confess, I am a mutant. Just been doing it for so long, I learned to like it. Learning how to use a meter and read a wiring diagram and you can find your problem. I never replace an electrical part till I have proven it bad. There is a reason you can't return electrical parts, you can smoke the new one if you're wrong. Computer controlled systems, forget it. Out of my league, hate them with a passion. I'll fix your electrical problem if you drill out all these d*** spot welds I'm fighting.