COOLING??

I have to agree with Jack. Aluminum is the way to go. I live in Alabama, and I can run the 6 wide open, or sit for hours in 100 degree heat and it never goes above 170. For 149 bucks that is a steal. I had mine custom made by Griffen, cost me 600. Oh by the way before I the aluminum radiator, I overheated everytime I was on the interstate. I have done a fair amount of mods as well(Aussie head, milled a whole bunch, headers, large valves, etc.).
 
Hey 66pony,
Whered you get your Perma Cool fan from?? How much was it??? How does it work, does it keep the stang as cool as a flex fan would. I like the fact that you dont have the fan robbing power.
Matt
 
Hey 66Sprint6:


I got my electric fan from Jeg's, and it cost $84
If you get it you definitely need to get an electric fan relay kit....which automatically turns the fan on and off depending on what the relay temps. are set at....

DON'T GET THE THERMAL SENSOR MENTIONED IN THE SAME AD!!!

i did and it never EVER kicked the fan on and the engine almost overheated and i just got done putting $$$thousands into the engine$$$

i got a much better one which costs $60...from summit racing...and my fan turns on @ 185degrees and turns off @170degrees...i would also add that you might want to put the chemical in your radiator called "Stops Overheating" it by Pro-Blend Motorsports..all you do is drain your radiator then add 1 gal. of the chemical then fill the rest up with distilled water...doesn't make sense to add nothing besides water but it works...i use it..except before winter you do have to change it back to antifreeze or engine will freeze up!!!!

it may cost a little bit of money bit it's worth it..i go for RAW POWER!!! and it works...i got some SWEET :D burnout pics you should see!!!!
 
66 pony: you don't have a/c, do you? i measured last night; don't have the clearance you mentioned. the a/c condensor takes up most of the free space in fromt of the radiator. :cry:


so, what do you guys think is better for traffic driving, a/c on cooling? a 2 row radiator with an aggressively pitched fan (or an electric puller fan) or a 3 row radiator with the stock 4 blade shallow pitched fan?
 
Yes, i do have a/c, four of them.....2 in front, 2 in back(windows)......but seriously, no i don't.........kind of a bummer that it wouldn't work out......sorry i couldn't help you out more :(
 
I have a question/concern. As the weather is starting to get better up here in 'The Great White North', I have noticed that in traffic my mustang starts to overheat. I do not experience any problems on the highway. Now, I have a newly rebuilt 200, with a new water pump, thermastat, and an electric fan. The fan is a puller and does kick in. The frustrating part is if the car starts overheating in traffic and then I jump on the highway, I lose quite a bit of performance. I don't have an radiator overflow return setup.

Anyone with ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.

.............Alex M
 
Mr. mcmillal:

One thing that gets bantered about (almost irresponsibly) in these pages is the static timing advance value. The 200 I6, in particular, is very tolerant of long spark advance at low engine speeds, so some of us add too much static advance. This causes extra engine heat, especially in heavy, slow traffic.

Try 2 things: first, reduce your static timing if it's more than 8 degrees. Second, check that slot inside the distributor. Whatever value it has, use this value to determine the MAX static advance to use:

38 - ( (Slot Value) x 2) = static degrees.

For example, is the slot is 13 degrees, like one of mine (there are usually 2 different slots, one is unused), the formula would become:

38 - (13 x 2) = 38-26 = 12 degrees.

I find that 12 degrees makes mine overheat in summer traffic, but 8 degrees lets the temperature needle stay below "NORMAL" in the gauge. The happy medium is somewhere in between, like 10 degrees.

I get best power with 12 degrees, but best gas mileage at 8 degrees.

Sorry for the math, but I am cursed with the Engineer's mind...
 
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