Diagnosis please

[hotrodford]

It had been a while since I had ran my Falcon. It had sat for about a month, and the last time I drove it before then the car seemed to stumble in speeds of no mre than 30 mph. So it sat for a month and I wanted to start it up and get some fluids through it. I noticed some very light gray smoke from the pipes. So today, I finally was able to take it for a drive to see if the smoke would go away. It almost went away, just very, very slight smoke now, but the car still stumbled. I adjusted the choke being I thought it wasn't getting enough air. Then it just died, would not crank over but a ting from the starter relay. Is the stumbling and the sudden stoppage from the same issue, or two seperate problems?

 

[bubba22349]

Start by checking the points if yours still have them. Make sure that they are clean and gaped right or replace them also look at your plugs condition and gap. Check the coil out good strong spark blue and should jump about 3/8 to 1/2 inch. Than check the float level in the carb if it's been a long time since carb has been rebuilt might be a good time to do it. Good luck

 

[hotrodford]

Where can I buy a rebuild kit for a 1bbl?

 

[bubba22349]

Most auto parts stores should still be able to get them like NAPA has a good kit The Carb Shop online too. Do you know which carb you have?

 

[hotrodford]

Not sure. I do know that the tag says it's a 65. There is two issues with it though. It has an auotmatic choke but the previous owner installed a manual choke or vice versa. The other is the A arm above the chokeplate that holds the air cleaner has been removed. Because of this, I have to rig a little air filter with a clamp to make it work. I would like to replace the carb but they are pricey.

 

[bubba22349]

There's a 1904 Holley has a manual choke for sale still in parts section

viewtopic.php?f=86&t=68027

 

[Frankenstang]

Had she run fine before the stumble started at some point...ie the 'stumble' began w/o any significant adjustments or repairs...in other words just started stumbling out of nowhere?

Today's ethanol fuel blends have a short shelf life, and generally a prime suspect for a stumble that just appears out of nowhere. They're like varnish by the gallon if you don't cycle it regularly. When you say you adjusted the choke, did you do it while it was running. A manual choke can be a big aid in diagnosing a fuel related issue...eg open the choke some more and she runs worse could mean she's leaning out...close the choke some and she runs worse could be too rich...or vice versa, open the choke and she runs better could be too rich, close the choke and she runs better too lean.

Then it just died, would not crank over but a ting from the starter relay. Is the stumbling and the sudden stoppage from the same issue, or two seperate problems?

Died and would not crank, 'only click at the solenoid?'...could be a bad/loose/corroded cable connection, positive or ground, and very well could be related if the stumbling is a 'miss' (cylinder not firing). Of course if it is a miss could be mechanical as well...stuck valve is another byproduct of long sits and 'sticky' fuel residues (compression test or visual inspection will ID that particular issue). I'd approach the not cranking issue as a main power problem, such as cables. Once she's 'cranking' I'd check over the fuel system...pressure and volume are easy enough to check after the pump, and most the 1bbls are generally simple to rebuild.
Good luck

 

[hotrodford]

Ok, last night I changed he plugs. It ran smooth but the old plugs were covered in carbon residue. One thing I forgot to mention was that I moved from 14oo ft elevation to 400-450 ft elevation. How do I adjust the carb for this elevation? When I opened the choke it did run better, and when I closed it, the engine would bog down even more or just stop running. Oh, it still had a slight presence of gray smoke, but only when I pressed the gas. Also, what direction should my fuel be facing? Mine (the filter can) is facing upward. Is this right?

How do I find out what carb I have so I can get a rebuild kit for it?

 

[Frankenstang]

Generally speaking a/f mixtures need to be leaned out slighly at higher elevations, but since you seem to be running rich (gray smoke, carbon build up, less choke is smoother, etc.) tune for altitude might not be as big a concern right now. IIWIYS I'd look more at float level being slightly too high, worn needle and/or seat, vanish build up on the needle or seat...not properly sealing fuel inlet, could even be an idle mixture adjustment if the problem were only at the lower end of the idle spectrum (800-900rpm or less).

Depending on the year of your Falcon, a common factory carb might be...
the Autolite 1100


or the service replacement Holley 1940


EDIT: There are a myriad of other possibilities as well...Carter YF, RBS, Holley 1904...I think one fella up here was even running a Rochester BC. You can post a pic if you're not sure (you'll need a pic hosting site to insert a thumbnail or properly sized pic into this thread) and I'll bet someone can ID it right quick. A good cleaning, rebuild and re-adjustment are probably not a bad idea, although your rich condition does not sound too severe if cleaning the plugs smoothed her out. Depending on the known maintenance and tuning history an ignition tune is likely in order as well as bubba suggested. Good luck

 

[chad]

"...Mine (the filter can) is facing upward..."

Since it seems to be a 1965 carb this may mean it's a Cal. car?
If no pic can you explain the lay out of the carb a lill more?
Still got the SCV & LOM dizzy?

 

[hotrodford]

Thanks Frankenstang, it is a Model 1100 carb for sure. I will try and get a rebuild kit for it this weekend. If not, is it possible to clean it up some without taking it apart for now? To Chad, the car was made in Texas. Here is a pic:


http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x115 ... 030701.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x115 ... 030702.jpg

As you can tell that is not the stock air filter mount.

 

[Frankenstang]

No sweat hotrod ford
EDIT: Autozone use to carry the GP Sorenson kit, but believe it was a web only or special order item last time I looked. It's a good kit, comes with new 'check balls' and a new SCV, gaskets, needle, seat, main jet, etc (no float), but if yours is the stock brass one you're better off with it than a nitorphyl replacement. You can dunk it cup of alchohol or water to make sure it has no leaks...you'll usually hear liquid sloshing around inside if its bad. Rebuilding the 1100 is not that tough at all and the best reference is the Ford Shop Manual.

The Falcon Comet FAQ one, on the web, has the blowups of the manual...
http://falconfaq.dyndns.org/display1.ph ... age=10-020
...and auto choke design
http://falconfaq.dyndns.org/display1.ph ... age=10-021
...reading through the section on the 1100 will tell you just about everything you want to know about it...
http://falconfaq.dyndns.org/display1.ph ... age=10-008

Mike's Carbs is one of the few places that still carries the Autolite jets that I know of...
http://www.carburetor-parts.com/category_s/104.htm

And this seller on ebay has the little a-frame bracket...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Autolite-1100-A ... 1b&vxp=mtr
but at that price I'd probably hunt down a used or salvage core for the spare part(s) IIWIYS.

One thing 'I think' you may have going on there is the fabrication of a manual to auto choke to design. The auto choke had a different lower carb body than the manual as can be see in the blowups above. JC Whitney and others carry an 'auto to manual' choke kit...maybe that's what someone put on there. Although I'm a big fan of the manual chokes...I'm not sure you wouldn't be better off converting back to the auto choke style that carb was designed for...my biggest concern with the 'conversion' kits would be a correct functioning choke unloader. The auto chokes are often decommissioned because of incorrect adjustment, malfunction or sluggish reaction. Sometimes they're deleted because they're just not functioning at all due to carbon build up plugging the vacuum channel or the usual burn out of the stove tube air passage going throught the exhaust manifold that lets the choke see 'full' exhaust gas (ie exhaust leak) when that passage ruptures.

Well without rambling on endlessly and to get back to your questions...I'd probably do a rebuild yourself and seriously consider coverting back to an auto choke (or even an electric conversion) or just find a good manual choke core to rebuild if you prefer that option.
Good luck

PS The FSM does have a pic of the accel pump 'pin setting' that is related to altitude, but according to ford, does not come into play till your at altitutudes approaching 5k ft.
Also when you do the rebuild, I'd do it over a big piece of light colored card board or poster board and keep close track of the check balls and weight and the passages where thay belong (2 balls and 1 weight on teh accel pump, one ball with the anti-stall dashpot) and don't mess with the 'power valve' (not to be confused with the SCV) if you don't have to. Rebuild bench adjustments are all laid out in specific order in the manual, and there are plenty of folks here very familiar with the carb if you need any help.