mysavioreigns":rnxaih03 said:
I was just referring to the 12V test light - not physically grounding the B-pin. I (assume?) I would take the 12V test light, clip the "ground" side of it to the B-pin, and put the "12V" side of the light on the C-pin.
OK, good - had me scared there for a second.
Nope, that won't check anything, because the "B" should be constant 12V and the "C" should be switching on/off 12V or so. Your light won't show you anything useful connecting it between the two pins.
I'd rather check the voltage like I described above, with the "ground" side of the test light on a good ground, and the "12V" side on the "B" pin. That way you'll know if you've got 12V feeding into the module. The "C" pin should be switching 12V on/off, according to the signal received from the distributor via the "G" and "W" pins).
Sounds like your wiring is as it should be, I'd start at the beginning, and check for anything resembling a spark at the plugs, using a plug checker. (may have a weak coil). Assuming you have NO SPARK at all, then look for;
1. Constant 12V at the "B" terminal with the ignition in the "Run" and "Start" positions.
2. Intermittent On/Off 12V at the "C" terminal with the engine cranking. This might be hard to see, might have to pull the dizzy and spin it by hand. If your module is switching on/off, then the trouble has to be 'downstream' in the coil, wires, or plugs.