DSII driving me nuts

mysavioreigns":2nbeialo said:
...the ground on B...
Waitaminnit...if you've got a ground on B, then you're grounding out the system and it won't work.

Easy way to check for igntion feed voltage is to connect the + lead of the voltmeter to the B terminal, and the - lead to ground. You should have 12V with the ignition switch in the "Run" and the "Start" position. If not, then go back one item 'upstream' to the coil and check again, then look at your ignition switch. If you do have voltage, then look 'downstream' at the module. Even new ones fail, and when they do they always (well, 99.9%) fail completely.
 
jamyers":3atnsoe6 said:
Waitaminnit...if you've got a ground on B, then you're grounding out the system and it won't work.

Easy way to check for igntion feed voltage is to connect the + lead of the voltmeter to the B terminal, and the - lead to ground. You should have 12V with the ignition switch in the "Run" and the "Start" position. If not, then go back one item 'upstream' to the coil and check again, then look at your ignition switch. If you do have voltage, then look 'downstream' at the module. Even new ones fail, and when they do they always (well, 99.9%) fail completely.

I was just referring to the 12V test light - not physically grounding the B-pin. I (assume?) I would take the 12V test light, clip the "ground" side of it to the B-pin, and put the "12V" side of the light on the C-pin.
 
mysavioreigns":rnxaih03 said:
I was just referring to the 12V test light - not physically grounding the B-pin. I (assume?) I would take the 12V test light, clip the "ground" side of it to the B-pin, and put the "12V" side of the light on the C-pin.
OK, good - had me scared there for a second. :D

Nope, that won't check anything, because the "B" should be constant 12V and the "C" should be switching on/off 12V or so. Your light won't show you anything useful connecting it between the two pins.

I'd rather check the voltage like I described above, with the "ground" side of the test light on a good ground, and the "12V" side on the "B" pin. That way you'll know if you've got 12V feeding into the module. The "C" pin should be switching 12V on/off, according to the signal received from the distributor via the "G" and "W" pins).

Sounds like your wiring is as it should be, I'd start at the beginning, and check for anything resembling a spark at the plugs, using a plug checker. (may have a weak coil). Assuming you have NO SPARK at all, then look for;
1. Constant 12V at the "B" terminal with the ignition in the "Run" and "Start" positions.
2. Intermittent On/Off 12V at the "C" terminal with the engine cranking. This might be hard to see, might have to pull the dizzy and spin it by hand. If your module is switching on/off, then the trouble has to be 'downstream' in the coil, wires, or plugs.
 
Well, it looks like the magical elves are at it again. I went out to the car when I got home, (I'll remind you I have not touched it at all since last night) and I put the spark plug up on something so I could see if it was firing or not.

So I go to the cab, start it up, AND THE CAR STARTED!!! Yea, it was running on 5 cylinders, but it was running, lol. Well, I quickly killed it, after freaking out. I put the spark plug back in, and started it up. It was beautiful.

So, it ran for a minute then died out. Started right back up again with ease, ran for a minute, and died out. I believe it is a combination of being low on gas and just being cold. Any ideas?

So, about an hour later my wife was walking by it and I said "hey check this out" and went to start it up. Nothing. :shock:
 
Enough to drive you to the looney bin eh? :) Before you go totally bonkers, I would try as suggested and go to the complete DSII set up. Once you are sure all the wiring is straight, switch back to the GM module. Stuff like that drives me nuts. I had a 72 Cutlass that would just cut out at in-opportune times (i.e. intersection). A guy at the electric shop idled it for six hours with no problem. It died again on the five mile trip home! :( End result, the wire to the points was broken internally giving an intermittent connection. I got THAT far into the weeds with it. Couldn't sleep at night LOL

Ron
 
Check for stray wires as well. Had a '67 Mustang (289) that would cut out under acceleration, but not every time. Turned out to be a stray wire a PO had added. It would swing around and every so often ground out and kill the ignition.

Drove me nuts.
 
addo":f5e1r3qf said:
It's possible to have a damaged pickup inside the distributor, too. Check for continuity.

Sound like it to me. The ignition coil usually works or they don't. Pickup coils are less than $20 at the parts store and you only have to remove the cap to exchange it.
 
mysavioreigns":2q28y45j said:
So, about an hour later my wife was walking by it and I said "hey check this out" and went to start it up. Nothing. :shock:

Makes you just want to kick something, don't it! Tellin' ya put that stock dizzy in there for now...
 
I had a s10 blazer that would randomly die. to make sure it was the module I bought a new module and I waited for it to die again. it finally did in a drive thru. I swapped the module in the parking lot and never had another problem with it.

change the module. or... get an msd box. :wink:


dumb question, you're not getting any spark, correct?

I thought i'd ask since i've just read it doesn't start.
 
Just a suggestion since nothing is working for you.I had a very simular problem and it ended up being my ignition switch itself!It took me forever to figure it out and to me i couldn't believe it but it was. I am still not sure what was wrong with it but when I changed it I had no problems.it started out starting fine and when I drove it it would just die.Then it progressivly got worse till it wouldn't start.worth looking at if all else fails!
 
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