ELECTRICAL-STARTER

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66 MUSTANG,200 SIX SOMETIME STARTER WILL SPIN & NOT ENGAGE ,SOMETIME STARTER WILL START ENGINE & NOT DISENGAGE. HAVE NEW BATTERY, SOLINOID, STARTER, NEW GROUND WIRE, NEW WIRE FROM BATTERY,NEW IG. SWITCH, DISCONNECTED RUBBER PLUG AT BACK OF IG. SWITCH WIRED DIRECT TO SW.W/ NEW TERMINALS. COULD REALLY USE SOME HELP THANKS
 
How many times do we hear this? :roll:

The best sensible options are just a recondition if you can, after an electrical shop have checked the leads and solenoid.



Here is an alternative:-

The issue is that the old click clack starters are old and suffer heat soak (look at the header which is right beside it) becasue they are

a) big

b) and inefficient.

One issue is that Nissan and Toyota six cylinder starters are of a better specification. The net hp to the flyweel is greater, they are smaller and pre-engaged so half the work is already done in getting the ring gear revolving. In Aussie, they use rebuilt Toyota Crown starters with a special V8 pitch nose for hard worked V8's with headers. Since America hasn't entierly sold of its componenent industry to the Chinese, wouldn't someone here look at the options of retrofitting a similar newbie starter into the 2 or 3 bolt I6 format? Doesn't have to ruin the classic status of our rides.

I'm certain just a new unit would suffice, but the issue may be simply that the spec in 1966 may not have been strict enough, and that in 2004, even the newer component may be a little passe', and they may be better alternatives around.
 
i found it easiest to just replace it...down time was 15 minutes...it IS mmy daily driver
 
I DID REPLACE THE STARTER W/ A REBUILT & HAD IT CHECKED OUT TO MAKE SURE IT WORKED
 
Check your grounds. Make sure your starter relay by the battery is grounded well. Also make sure the block has a ground. I think there was also a ground running from the firewall to one of the starter bolts on my 66.
 
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