Engine lift points

rabendan

New member
What is the best way to lift a 200ci engine and transmission as one unit out of a 66 stang?

My current engine had severely lost compression and I was lucky enough to get another 200 and transmission free from someone who was doing a V8 swap. I was going to replace my engine and have it slowly rebuilt, while driving around with the freebie.
 
Some folks have used the head bolts---after removing the head, but I am assuming you don't want to tear it down any. I have a 68 model block and I found several places to hook onto using grade 8 bolts..there were a couple in the center of the block on one side and at the base of the block on the right side. I equalized it by attaching to the front drivers side where there are some places on a flat piece of the upper casing on the block. I attached at two more points further on the back of the block on both sides. I don't have a decent picture but I will put in a couple I took just before I pulled it..Now I didn't pull the tranny with it, you have to come up at a steeper angle lifting the thing up more vertically with the front up and it has to go in that way as well, just be careful and have someone else there to steady the engine and help you guide it in and line it up for you while you let it down gradually.




Look at the bottom pic closely you can see where my leveler chains are laying they are on relatively equal points on both sides at 4 different but stabilizing locations. There are others with better pics and some at different points...the main thing is make sure it is on a fat piece of the block, that it is equalized and you use good bolts then ease it in.
 
Don't know if it's a good thing or not but both 200 ci engines for my '79 Mustang had lifting brackets on them, bolted to the head. Front drivers side (behind the top p/s pump bracket) and rear passenger side. I pulled the old engine out and put the new engine in with the C-4 attached. Just adjusted the legs of the chain to achieve the right pitch angle to get the trans. out and in the well. I used a bolt/nut through the chain to maintain unequal lengths on the legs. Long end to the front, short end to the rear. I left the one on the rear in place but took the one in the front off after I got it in.
 
I used the front and rear head bolt on my 170 with the head on. The shop manual listed a special tool for this that I'm sure would be near impossible to find. I'm curious about the newer engine lift points. That might be a good thing to find at the wrecking yard.
 
I just got an `83 cylinder head off a Fairmont and it had the bracket on it that's toward the rear of the engine, exhaust side. It attaches with 2 bolts and comes up over the log. The front one must attach to the block??
 
Yep,

It hooks up to the block right behind the distributor.

If you ever run across the brackets in the junkyard, buy them! They are kinda rare depending on what part of the country your in.

Later,

Doug
 
Mustang_Geezer":2hq9z26g said:
Yep, ... If you ever run across the brackets in the junkyard, buy them! They are kinda rare depending on what part of the country your in.
Doug
Yeah, I find them invaluable when you are trying to put in an Engine with the tranny on it and you have it almost vertical trying to get it under the shock tower braces and above the rad support - by yourself.

The right side rear lifting bracket also includes the AT kickdown lever. Here's a pic of one. (with the kickdown partsremoved to clear header) :
Hookersstarterfs.jpg


Here's the front left lift bracket that attaches to the PS bosses on newer engines. (right where the old road tube went).
ENGINERADFROMFRTRT.jpg


Powerband.
 
I pulled the 200 out of my '67 with the most rearward rocker shaft bolt hole and the most forward rocker shaft bolt hole. there 7/16" so I used grade 8 bolts, of course I had to remove the rocker shaft, but it came out perfect.
 
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