Engine swapping and general refreshing

[72maverick]

Is there any issues running drum front and disc in back? I only have the rear 5 lug available.

 

[wme013]

Is there any issues running drum front and disc in back? I only have the rear 5 lug available.

Major bad idea. The front brakes do 75% of the braking. You would also need a brake bias adjuster, disc brake require higher line pressure.
You would be locking the front brakes even on a moderate stop and a normal stop would take forever.

 

[bubba22349]

X 2 that's correct! it’s the opposite of what you want you would be better off running the drums on all four corners.

Do you know which rear axle you have under your Maverick now? There was a year of the Mavericks that had the good 8 inch rear axle with four lug wheels, if you had that one, later on you could put a set of 5 lug axles in or redrill them to 5. edited

 

[72maverick]

No biggie. I'll wait till I get a front end a well

 

[72maverick]

Also, any suggestions on radiators? The one I got in was to small to bolt to the support. Any good source for a radiator?

 

[72maverick]

With the 3g alternator swap, do I can the voltage regulator? Also, is there any wires I'll need to address? It looks like I have on from the regulator running to my front lights

 

[bubba22349]

Yes when you change to a 3rd gen Dord alternator you don't use the old regulator and the old alternator and regulators wiring harness. You will need to do a little rewiring, I want through this with another site member (See below link) not for a 3rd gen alternator but another 1 wire type the process will be semular, there are severial site members that have done the 3rd gen Swaps that you search for, JackFish is one that has done this swap , best of luck

1 Wire Alternator Swap on an Early Comet / Falcon with a Generator System
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=81504

 

[chad]

starting solenoid disappears w/PMGR or mini starter too

 

[wsa111]

starting solenoid disappears w/PMGR or mini starter too

Wrong, the solenoid provides 12V to the coil during the starting mode.
Depends what ignition system you are using.
The solenoid also is useful when requiring fused outputs from the battery cable terminal side.

 

[bubba22349]

i just found a post where JackFish talks about his 3 G alternator swap and the swaps details are in the below link, best of luck

Site Member JackFish's 3G Alternator Swap
/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=62869&hilit=3g+swap#p480540

 

[72maverick]

Getting ready toput the new engine in. Anybody know what size the bolts from the mount to the block are? I seem to be missing one

 

[chad]

not sure
if you are asking about the tower on the frame
/OR/
the motor mount on the engine.
I C "72 Mav" & am uncertain abt the yr break for "the late Mav mounts"
which are one piece anyway (i have on the below bronk w/'69 stang 250/4.2)

 

[72maverick]

The bolt that attaches the engine to the mount itself. You can see on bolt on the photo on the right where it goes into the block

 

[bubba22349]

I think it’s a 3/8 x 16 NC (course thread) not sure on the length around 1 1/4 inch or less. Measure how deep the threads are going into the block hole then subtract about 1/8 to 1/4 inch in length next add back the thickness of the motor mount bracket and add the thickness of a flat and a lock washer and that should get you real close. Good luck

 

[72maverick]

Awesome. I will have a lot more questions coming up.

 

[chad]

from that angle looks like "the late Mav" as its rivited together & hasa sorts hi strap.
If '250", dont the two bolt holes line up left to right, the 200 top to bottom?
:

 

[72maverick]

Well I hit a snag. I got the new engine in and mounted everything. All ways going well. Then I started to crank the engine by hand to bolt the torque convert and engine and the crank bolt started to spin freely on me. Engine can be turned at the ring gear, but the crank bolt is a dead fish.

Any way to get this thing out easily? I know this is not good, but need to figure it out.

 

[72maverick]

Aworse case what can I be looking at

 

[bubba22349]

before you installed the engine did you make sure the torque convertor was engaged into the front pump and slid all the way until it bottomed out? This is a very important first step to prevent damage to the trans front pump. I do this by grabbing the torque convertor center hub and lifting it up slightly so it's straight so that it dosent bind then I turn it and push in lightly until I feel it engage into the front pump drive flats when it's right it goes in easy and you can hear it bottom out. If the torque convertor hasn't been out of the trans then you usually only need to push it in until it bottoms out. Also when I do these installs I clock the torque convertor so that the stude next to one of the two torque convertor drain plugs is at 6 o'clock so I can see it under the car. Then I turn the flex plate holes so that one is lined up in the same 6 o'clock position before I try to slide the engine in I adjust this this as needed during the install so that the torque convertor stude slides right into the flex plate hole. On a C4 (as well as C6 and many other transmissions) even with the torque convertor seated all the way into the front pump the studs are long enough so that it can lock up the engine when the trans bell housing is bolt down tight if the torque convertor stude is pushed against the flex plate anywhere instead of being in the flex plate holes. Did you put the engine block plate (the tin plate) on the back of the engine before you installed the Flex plate?

Did you have the crankshaft bolt torqued to spec of 85 to 95 Ft. Lb.? It is almost imposable to damage the large 9/16 X 18 crankshaft center bolt. Sounds like the engine is locked up so don't try turning it until it's pulled again. I think in the worse case you will just need to pull engine again and torque the crankshaft bolt back to factory spec. then reinstall the engine as above. Hope that helps good luck Edited

 

[72maverick]

I got the engine to go one to the studs in the transmission. I never took out the converter. I've blow the pump once on my trans before... Lesson learned.


I was trying to torque it down when the bolt stopped cranking the engine and just started spinning and now it won't toque down or back out.

The engine isnt locked. I can turn it at the inspection plate


I'm pretty sure it's the bolt.