Engine swapping and general refreshing
- Thread starter 72maverick
- Start date
72maverick
Well-known member
Now im on the hunt for a harmonic balancer. The block is a 68 and has a dingle groove 3 bolt. I need a 2 groove 3 bolt. Any good sources for one?
What is the difference between the 3 and 4 bolt
What is the difference between the 3 and 4 bolt
Later engines used the 4 bolt dampners. Sometimes you can find one of the accessory 3 bolt on pulleys to add on to the existing dampner that were used to add AC. You can try your local wrecking yards, aftermarket AC install companies, antique Ford parts companies, eBay, Craigs list, Good luck in the hunt. 
72maverick
Well-known member
I have a 3 groove (or 2 with an attachmen) on my ood block but that bolt wont move. I dont mind a new one or a refirb is available
Know anyone with an air impact tool that would help you take the bolt out?
72maverick
Well-known member
I do not. Would running a 3 groove with only 2 belts be bad? Or do all 3 grooves come with the attachment?
U could do that. Make sure the rubber has not seperated (frm metal).72maverick":3nsdgs6c said:
1) Matt sold me my 3 shive pulley (1 piece HB).
2) Damper doc can rebuild what U have.
not sure what U mean 'attachment'~
bub's 'bolt on' is as he sez, 1 grove onto 1 or 2 (3 bolts)
72maverick
Well-known member
So I can use a 4 bolt 2 groove without any issues? I just need the alternator and the PS pump
C if I can post from my archive:
http://www.mustangtek.com/pulley/Pulley.html
no, but there is a full chart to search.
The stock three bolt pulleys for all small sixes from '63 to '77 measure 5 7/8" across that will B a factor.
http://www.mustangtek.com/pulley/Pulley.html
no, but there is a full chart to search.
The stock three bolt pulleys for all small sixes from '63 to '77 measure 5 7/8" across that will B a factor.
72maverick":vkvx29kx said:
No it won't hurt to run a 3 grove pulley with only 2 belts.
72maverick
Well-known member
What does the smog canister do? Do I nees it?
It's used to collect the fuel vapors from the fuel system (fuel tank, carb, etc.) and then vent them back into the engine during its operation. Depends on emissions rules you might have in your state and if the year of car your still required to meet those rules. Good luck
72maverick
Well-known member
No emmissions needed here so that's good. I almost have the and cooling system ready. Next ill be looking at a suspension rebuild. I know the shelby drop was mentioned which I will be looking at doing. However I wws looking at redoing all of it. Are there any kits that have everything needed for a rebuild or a good source of them?
Also, I do have some 5 lug rear ends. Any specific gear i should be looking at?
Thanks again
Also, I do have some 5 lug rear ends. Any specific gear i should be looking at?
Thanks again
Yes there are severial places that offer rebuild kits for front suspention the bushings, ball joints, ect but usally not the coil springs, sway bar are seperate. One company like that is this Performance Now Direct, see link. http://www.performancenowdirect.com/197 ... ce-rubber/
There is also PST, and couple others I can't think of right now. I have even seen a couple Mustang kits that offered performance based parts the front and rear springs shocks and sway bars kind of pricey but has everthing included, haven't seen them in while but haven't been hunting for them lately.
On rear suspension you usally have to get the parts individually this would be the front leaf spring bushings (one each side) and the rear shackle bushings or a kit with a new shackle and bushings or individual parts. If you were replaceing the rear springs you can get stock type spring eye height or mid eye for a lttile lower height these springs usually will come with new front spring bushings. Rear Sway bars are also available and new UBolts. Shocks are offered as front or rear sets, from many companies. Rear gear could be from a 2.75 for a hyway hauler looking for best MPG to maybe as low as a 3.50 for a street / track type performance car. I used to use mostly 3.00 or somtimes a 3.25 to 3.50 for a quick take off the line. The best of both worlds set up for a C4 is the low gear set (also known as the "Poor Mans Overdrive") gives a quick take off used with a high gear like 2.54 to 2.74 or 3.00 and still get decent MPG. Good luck
There is also PST, and couple others I can't think of right now. I have even seen a couple Mustang kits that offered performance based parts the front and rear springs shocks and sway bars kind of pricey but has everthing included, haven't seen them in while but haven't been hunting for them lately.
On rear suspension you usally have to get the parts individually this would be the front leaf spring bushings (one each side) and the rear shackle bushings or a kit with a new shackle and bushings or individual parts. If you were replaceing the rear springs you can get stock type spring eye height or mid eye for a lttile lower height these springs usually will come with new front spring bushings. Rear Sway bars are also available and new UBolts. Shocks are offered as front or rear sets, from many companies. Rear gear could be from a 2.75 for a hyway hauler looking for best MPG to maybe as low as a 3.50 for a street / track type performance car. I used to use mostly 3.00 or somtimes a 3.25 to 3.50 for a quick take off the line. The best of both worlds set up for a C4 is the low gear set (also known as the "Poor Mans Overdrive") gives a quick take off used with a high gear like 2.54 to 2.74 or 3.00 and still get decent MPG. Good luck
fella visits us here "What' the best fan I can buy?". After 3 guys'n 15 posts on the thread we find out his coolant system is clogged (no fan will ever fix that). Sometimes its better/faster to ask the right question (by stating the problem or layin out the end goal).
Seems like where we may B @ right now.
What is the application you seek for this vehicle?
We've switched from some ideas on a motor (& around that) to suspension mods and handling ideas (and around that).
How will the Mav be used 80% of the time. What is the budget? How much of the work will you be doing ur self..?
Seems like where we may B @ right now.
What is the application you seek for this vehicle?
We've switched from some ideas on a motor (& around that) to suspension mods and handling ideas (and around that).
How will the Mav be used 80% of the time. What is the budget? How much of the work will you be doing ur self..?
72maverick
Well-known member
Who said it was clogged? Car sat outside for about 7 years, so im putting in everything new.
Its just going to be cruising car. Id like to make it better since im redoing everything anyways
I have now:
Offenhauser triple carb
HEI ignition
Siganaw PS pump
High output alternator
1.6 ratio rockers
New radiator and hoses
New transmission lines
Want next
Suspension rebuild
Header and exhaust
5 bolt rear (have just need wheels and what not)
Rear disc brake
New brake lìnes
Front and rear valance
Passenger fender
Its just going to be cruising car. Id like to make it better since im redoing everything anyways
I have now:
Offenhauser triple carb
HEI ignition
Siganaw PS pump
High output alternator
1.6 ratio rockers
New radiator and hoses
New transmission lines
Want next
Suspension rebuild
Header and exhaust
5 bolt rear (have just need wheels and what not)
Rear disc brake
New brake lìnes
Front and rear valance
Passenger fender
72maverick
Well-known member
I'm thinking this kit: http://www.performancenowdirect.com/for ... ce-rubber/
And the shelby drop.
Anything else I should be looking at doing?
And the shelby drop.
Anything else I should be looking at doing?
Looks like a good rebuild kit, this should give your Maverick a good ride and great handling performance. There is an improvement that can be made to the spring towers to beef them up some this was done by Ford on the 1969 & 70 Boss Mustangs. It consists of a set of steel plates that are welded onto the bottom of the spring towers for reinforcement. I did this mod on my 1966 Mustang Fastback but the first thing is to make sure that both of spring towers are standing up straight, and then stitch welding the stock tower bracing / backing plates to the spring towers. This add's a lot of strength and stiffness to the front end of the chassis and with it helps to give you the best in handling. Since these cars with this type suspention (Falcons, Comets, Mustangs, and Mavericks to name a few) are quite old now it's not uncommon for their spring towers to be leaning inward at an angle from Age, Gravity, and or from neglect of Collision Damage, this causes handling and alignment issues. Because of this you should be sure to carfully inspect the spring towers and make needed repairs to bring them back into alignment, regardless of if you do the following Boss Tower mod's.
Next I made my own plates following the Boss Mustangs design and welding them in place at the bottom of the spring towers. After compleateing this work and getting a good aliment (if you need help on the correct settings let me know) this resulted in the very best handling early Ford car I ever owned, that car traveled straight for miles on the freeway with out having to continually steer the car back a forth to keep it going in a straight line. What are you using for the front brakes?
Next I made my own plates following the Boss Mustangs design and welding them in place at the bottom of the spring towers. After compleateing this work and getting a good aliment (if you need help on the correct settings let me know) this resulted in the very best handling early Ford car I ever owned, that car traveled straight for miles on the freeway with out having to continually steer the car back a forth to keep it going in a straight line. What are you using for the front brakes?
72maverick
Well-known member
Well I do not weld, but it gives me a good excuse to start at least.
I have drums all around on the 4 lug. My grandfather has a few rear ends I need to go through and figure out which gear ratio they have. I will probably do disc in that when I get it and wheels
I have drums all around on the 4 lug. My grandfather has a few rear ends I need to go through and figure out which gear ratio they have. I will probably do disc in that when I get it and wheels
If you want to change over to the 5 Lug wheels and the bigger brakes then I believe the 1975 up Mavericks and Comets, had those. I know my stock 1977 Maverick (250 cu. in. six with C4 & 8 inch rear axel) had the bigger / stronger spindles and 5 Lug disk brakes on the front with the larger V8 size drum brakes on the rear it stopped excellent. If you are wanting to add the disks on the rear axle that would also be a good upgrade. If I rember correctly people are bolting on the Explorer or Ranger rear disks for this upgrade, you would need to use a different master cylinder that works with an all disk brake system with this swap.
Similar threads
All Small Six
New Adventures in electrics fans and inline 6’s
