fairmont flood question

[Drives a 5]

I don't post much, but here it is. I've got an 82 Fairmont with a 200ci and 1946 carb. It runs fine, but when I shut it off after it's been running for a while, a minute later the carb will fill up with gas and then it will start dripping out of the throttle shaft onto the manifold. Naturally, I want to fix this. Thanks for any ideas!

 

[JackFish]

The '46 has a vent pipe going to a vapour cannister on the fender.
Could be either the vent isn't opening properly, or the pipe is plugged, or the vacuum control valve on the cannister is F'ed up.
Gas is boiling over from heat soak.

 

[Drives a 5]

Yeah, it does look like it's boiling over.
Thanks a lot for the info, I'll check it out.

 

[JackFish]

The vent bowl thingy could be stuck, it has a couple of screws on top and you can inspect it. All that might be required is some carb cleaner.

 

[Drives a 5]

I'm a little confused about where the bowl vent is? All I can find on the diagram of my carb in my Chilton's is the bowl vent solenoid, which is a small cylinder with a single wire connector that angles toward the passenger side of the car and toward the front - next to where that screws in is a tube which has a straight hose going to the carbon canister (nothing on the hose). That hose isn't the original setup, and before this it used to be plugged, so I'm not sure how it's supposed to be. The manual also says there are 3 screws to remove the bowl vent cover, and then one more that attaches the bowl vent .. but like I said it gives no indication of where that is. So if you could help me out on that I can find it and get it cleaned up! Thanks again!!

 

[Geezer 300]

A 1946 carby????? Something that old needs a rebuild!!!

 

[Drives a 5]

Come on, it's only 24 years old! Has 55k miles and runs good ... just have to fix this one issue and it's golden.

 

[LEROY POLL]

HEY SCOTT


.....I JUST WENT OUT AND LOOKED AT MY 1983 -MODEL 1946 CARB. I DON'T HAVE A VENT THAT UNBOLTS. MINE HAS A WIRE GOING TO IT AND A CONTROL VALVE THAT CONTROLS THE VENT THROUGH A VACUUM SWITCH. THE SWITCH TURNS ON AND SENDS A VOLTAGE TO THE SOLINOID. I DON'T KNOW IF IT OPENS IT OR CLOSES IT.

.....THE TWO SCREWS ON TOP ARE FOR A REMOVEABLE POWER VALVE. THAT POWER VALVE GOES BAD AND YOU GET POOR MILEAGE. ALSO WHEN IT GOES BAD YOU CAN'T PASS ANY SMOG TEST IN ANY STATE.

.....I GET THE SAME PROBLEM WHEN I STOP. IT BOILS AND GRUGGLES FOR ABOUT FIVE MINS. AND THEN STOPS. THEN WON'T START BECAUSE NO GAS IN THE CARB.

.....THE PROBLEM IS THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD/PRE-HEATER CANISTER. I LIVE IN CALIF. AND HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO CHANGE ANY THING ON THE CAR. IT IS A REAL PAIN!!!!. CHANGING TO A HEADER WOULD HELP A TON.

.....I DON'T USE THIS CAR MUCH NOW. IT IS NOW MY GRAND-DAUGHTER'S AND SHE ISN'T DRIVING YET.

.....IF ANYONE OUT THERE HAS A FIX FOR A CALIF. CAR,...... I WANT HERE IT.

.....THIS IS NOT MUCH HELP BUT NOW YOU CAN UNDERSTAND THE PROBLEM BETTER.

LIVE IN GRACE

LEROY POLL

 

[Drives a 5]

Yep, that's exactly what mine does, Leroy - boils for a few minutes, then the gas is all out so it takes some pumping to start it again.

I didn't realize at first that the vent isn't there (no wonder I couldn't find it). How is the problem with this the exhaust manifold/pre-heater canister?
I'm not really interested in switching to a header because (and I know this is sacrilege at this site, but...) I don't intend on keeping the straight 6 forever, just for now.

Finally, if the only problem is the solenoid, would it fix it to either A: replace the solenoid, or B: manually operate it with a switch? (providing you know when it's supposed to be off and on?) Any idea if it's just closed / not venting when the car is running and opens / vents when there is no vacuum present which makes the switch open it? or vice versa.

It's too bad you can't do anything to the car - I thought after so many years they were exempt from that? Maybe not in CA.

Anyway, if you have any thoughts let me know! Thanks for the input!