found out whats wrong with my car!!! i think..

wsa111

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First remove the spark plugs & look at the top of the pistons where the valves if stuck open would have hit the top of the pistons.

Second, put 100# of air pressure in each cylinder with the valves closed in each cylinder you pressurize.

That will test real fast where the loss of compression is from.

It will come out the exhaust if you have an exhaust valve leaking, or bent & not seating, open the carb butterfly up & listen for leakage out the intake valves. Then pull the crankcase breather cap off & listen for leakage from the rings.

When you pull the spark plugs to inspect the crowns of the pistons for physical contact if you find contact areas, pull the head right then & there & replace the stuck & or bent valves.

If you feel the rings are stuck in the piston ring grooves, put pb blaster or seafoam penetrant in each cylinder regardless of what you find on the top end.

The air pressure test will reveal your problem, good luck Bill
 

teggy87

Well-known member
i dont have the tools to do a leak down test.. for now i think all i can do is find a machine shop to take a look at my head and tell me if anything is wrong.. with my head.. i'll go buy a head gasket and pull the head and let you guys know how the diagnosis goes..
 

addo

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The valves will never hit the pistons on a stock Ford Six. We can put that theory to bed!

Next up - I suggest two things have happened, both related to time sitting and damp. First is the growth of light corrosion on the valve seats and valve faces. You lose sealing ability. Most of this will bed in with a little running.

Second is when moisture condenses in the cylinders and sits atop a ring for years. It will eat a circle of light corrosion in the cylinder wall, that won't heal.

Finally I'd double check the valve timing. It could be that the cam is mis-timed from an inexpert rebuild in the past. It won't have the issues diagnosed, from chain stretch and they never skip a tooth (that I recall reading about or hearing of, in over ten years).

Cheers, Adam.
 

teggy87

Well-known member
addo":1gke6t2k said:
The valves will never hit the pistons on a stock Ford Six. We can put that theory to bed!

Next up - I suggest two things have happened, both related to time sitting and damp. First is the growth of light corrosion on the valve seats and valve faces. You lose sealing ability. Most of this will bed in with a little running.

Second is when moisture condenses in the cylinders and sits atop a ring for years. It will eat a circle of light corrosion in the cylinder wall, that won't heal.

Finally I'd double check the valve timing. It could be that the cam is mis-timed from an inexpert rebuild in the past. It won't have the issues diagnosed, from chain stretch and they never skip a tooth (that I recall reading about or hearing of, in over ten years).

so that means i shouldnt have bent valves :) well that makes my day,
i poured tranny fluid down the carb, and i have noticed a slight difference, but not alot.
so would you suggest pulling the head and cleaning the valve seats? how would i fix the rust on the cyllinder walls? steel wool? it think would be the only good idea.

the issue im trying to figure out, is that the car used to shake really bad.. but it wouldnt shut off when i came to a stop. and then one day i got to work, and went to park it, and it shut off.. and it has been doing it ever since. so im assuming that im working with a problem that has gotten worse. and alot of the things people are suggesting dont seem to fit, idk.
 

170-3tree

Well-known member
i would not advise that you use steel wool to clean the cylinder walls.. any metal shavings would cause even bigger problems.. really the only way to fix any damage to the walls or rings is to either drop the engine and do a full inspection/rebuild or find a way to take out the rolling assembly without pulling the engine (highly unlikely) if it is a cylinder wall problem it will need to be bored with the kind of compression loss you are experienceing or if the rings are bad then they will have to be pulled all the way out to replace the rings. either way it would be a good idea to take the head in to get some work done to it cleaned and any bad parts replaced.

the fact that it died that one time could be a fluke or an indication that things will only get worse from then on. and more damage is being caused to the engine. as much as i hate to tell you there may be no easy inexpensive way out.
 

teggy87

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well i dumped a bottle of mystery oil in it, and a bottle of that piston ring oil stuff, and drove it accross the country and it was of no help. maybe my head gasket is bad?
 

addo

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I'm going to suggest that it was parked up because all those years back, it didn't run right. People forget stuff, sometimes to their convenience.

After this much running, and assuming all pushrods have been viewed operating I am confident to call bore problems on the car. The cheapest quick fix would be a warranted shortblock from one of the major rebuilders, with no core changeover. That gives the time to diagnose its present block issues.
 

teggy87

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well i'll call it after i pull the head.. how bout them apples!

and i was told the car was parked because it was wrecked in the front, and then the heater core went out and was leaking pretty badly
 

170-3tree

Well-known member
that is very possible, but what damage might have been caused by the heater core leaking a lot of coolant that would protect the engine from internal damage. even if it ran perfect when it was parked time didnt help and the signs of a scratched sleeve wouldn't appear right off the bat.
 

teggy87

Well-known member
So I know this is a super old thread but I figured I'd post what happened. I drove this car from Ohio to SC pulled the head and found 3 cracked exhaust valves and a cracked exhaust manifold. Pulled and replaced them and threw it back together with a felpro gasket, the gasket didn't have all the water jacket holes carved out so I called felpro and they said if it was that way, it was to improve performance. Well it overheated so I parked the car and sold it eventually sadly. So hindsight is cut those holes out of the head gasket or get NOS gaskets
 

DoctorC

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Awesome you came back to update. Many thanks!
Sounds like time to buy another mustang =)
 

mystere

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Keep us posted on your 55 F100 with the 223 six. I just posted 2 replies to your post regarding the 223 six in it. I have my late dad's 59 with the 223 six. It's a Southern California truck he bought new. It has a PCV Valve smog retrofit kit mandated in 1966 for pre 1961 vehicles.
 

chad

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"...PCV Valve (smog) retrofit kit mandated..."
gosh darned, havent even thought bout those in decades. Remember how they wanted us to abuse engines?
 

teggy87

Well-known member
See that's just cool, I don't know when he got this truck, I do have registration going back to 1975 though. Him and my father beat that truck up hauling firewood and what not, then after he came back from Europe and retired from the military, he had it painted and somewhat restored in the 90s but it has not been stored very well for the last 20 years or so. šŸ˜‘ But I enjoy working on the old machines so I'm excited about it. Trying to convince myself I need to drag out this engine lift to get the head back on, but I think in going to have it cleaned first. Idk.
Keep us posted on your 55 F100 with the 223 six. I just posted 2 replies to your post regarding the 223 six in it. I have my late dad's 59 with the 223 six. It's a Southern California truck he bought new. It has a PCV Valve smog retrofit kit mandated in 1966 for pre 1961 vehicles.
 

chad

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we havea forum for your motor (vehicle) & I fella I know gota lota use from it. Here's one thread of about 4 on here w/him~
this way U got both our names and can work away (or look up his others, explore the forum.) It would B the best on the site for you (altho there is "more action" over here I bet). Scan the index page for other goodies~
 
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