You don't have to use the steering extension from the Fairmont 200 ci donor when your swapping in the 200 ci K-member, but its synthetic connector is one-eighth of an inch thinner and that is a big help.
The trick to getting that steering shaft bolt back in is to use one 9/16" open end wrench one the solid shaft and another one right next to it to fill the gap and then pry towards the firewall to slip the bolt in. I tried a jack handle, screw drivers, but the wrenches worked best.
My 1979 302 C4 driveshaft fits right into the 1978 200 ci C4 tranny. Tomorrow is engine drop day. It took until 1:30 to get warm enough (-8C) to start working and by 4:15 there's no daylight. Well, we'll start gaining 2 minutes per day now until June 21.
The trick to getting that steering shaft bolt back in is to use one 9/16" open end wrench one the solid shaft and another one right next to it to fill the gap and then pry towards the firewall to slip the bolt in. I tried a jack handle, screw drivers, but the wrenches worked best.
My 1979 302 C4 driveshaft fits right into the 1978 200 ci C4 tranny. Tomorrow is engine drop day. It took until 1:30 to get warm enough (-8C) to start working and by 4:15 there's no daylight. Well, we'll start gaining 2 minutes per day now until June 21.
Hey! Hey! The 200 ci is in! Tricky to do with the transmission in, but no where near as tricky as a 392 Hemi. My dad and I built a fueler once. We put it into an aluminum Bread Delivery truck. Once we had it ready to install, the track made them illegal because they were so high that a small crosswind could blow you into the other guy's lane or worse the audience.
We installed it into a restored Monaco convertible! My dad drove it, all 650 HP with dual holleys, headers, solid lifters from a 1957 D-300 convertible. AND he put Nitrogen on it! He got more tickets for his heavy foot than I paid for brand new 1981 Fairmont Wagon. Over $10,000 in tickets! But boy could that thing scream, between gas-stations!
We installed it into a restored Monaco convertible! My dad drove it, all 650 HP with dual holleys, headers, solid lifters from a 1957 D-300 convertible. AND he put Nitrogen on it! He got more tickets for his heavy foot than I paid for brand new 1981 Fairmont Wagon. Over $10,000 in tickets! But boy could that thing scream, between gas-stations!
JackFish lent me the original 1978 Ford Car Shop Manuals. I was scanning the Chassis manual, and noticed the drive shaft differences. In Chapter 15-60 (Single Cardan Type U-Joints), the shaft uses U-bolts, just like my 1979 Fairmont (hecho in Mexico), and this same chapter says "Applies to all models except Lincoln Continental And Versaille" (Fox bodies only).
The next chapter 15-66 "Double Cardan Type U-Joints" and "Applies to Lincoln Contintental and Versaille" (NON-Fox bodies.) Just like the 1978 donor car!!!??
The Double Cardan type uses 13 mm 12-point bolts and has a large disc-type weight at each end of the shaft. The Single Cardan with the u-bolt mounting system doesn't have these discs - it's uniform in diameter from one end to another.
I wonder why the discs. Being larger than the shaft, they'd act like extra ballast weight (like a gyroscope) and if they had an oil or liquid inside, the shaft would never be 'out of balance'.
Mine (u-bolt type) just has a couple of small steel plates weld in line on the tranny end. (I marked the rear axle and shaft for reinstallation).
I've restored at least 15 cars of the 77 cars I've owned, and never thought about spraying undercoat on the driveshaft, but these books say its a definite NO NO.
The bolt spacing on the differential end is different too, so you couldn't just swap shaft.
It must've been a Versaille day on the line when this '78 was built.
The next chapter 15-66 "Double Cardan Type U-Joints" and "Applies to Lincoln Contintental and Versaille" (NON-Fox bodies.) Just like the 1978 donor car!!!??
The Double Cardan type uses 13 mm 12-point bolts and has a large disc-type weight at each end of the shaft. The Single Cardan with the u-bolt mounting system doesn't have these discs - it's uniform in diameter from one end to another.
I wonder why the discs. Being larger than the shaft, they'd act like extra ballast weight (like a gyroscope) and if they had an oil or liquid inside, the shaft would never be 'out of balance'.
Mine (u-bolt type) just has a couple of small steel plates weld in line on the tranny end. (I marked the rear axle and shaft for reinstallation).
I've restored at least 15 cars of the 77 cars I've owned, and never thought about spraying undercoat on the driveshaft, but these books say its a definite NO NO.
The bolt spacing on the differential end is different too, so you couldn't just swap shaft.
It must've been a Versaille day on the line when this '78 was built.
Noise, vibration and harshness. Yank Linc compacts were always supposed to be quiet!
From earlier Hot Rod and Wheels articles, apparent problems with leaf spring X-sheel Fords is that a soft sprung Granada's or Lincoln Versailies were often equiped with 145 hp 351's which liked to rip the trail shafts out of C4's or FMX's. Fords development guys needed a reduction in driveline noise, and better durability, still with soft leaf springs, and without going to a four link coil spring rear. So extra dollars were needed in making better drive shafts.
Over in Australia, they just widened the track 6 inches, ran bigger wheels, and stiffened the heck out of the rear suspension bushes. It was only the XR6 utes and the 155 mph 5.6 liter Windsors that resulted in the need to better quality drive shafts.
From earlier Hot Rod and Wheels articles, apparent problems with leaf spring X-sheel Fords is that a soft sprung Granada's or Lincoln Versailies were often equiped with 145 hp 351's which liked to rip the trail shafts out of C4's or FMX's. Fords development guys needed a reduction in driveline noise, and better durability, still with soft leaf springs, and without going to a four link coil spring rear. So extra dollars were needed in making better drive shafts.
Over in Australia, they just widened the track 6 inches, ran bigger wheels, and stiffened the heck out of the rear suspension bushes. It was only the XR6 utes and the 155 mph 5.6 liter Windsors that resulted in the need to better quality drive shafts.
I posted a few gripes under separate topics about the Carb Kit and my AC system's heater, and a question about the Driveshaft (the 78 donor has disc-type counterweights at each end, which should only have been in the Versailles and Continental models. My Mexican 79 has the u-bolt mounted type with no big disc counterweights on the Driveshaft.
Well, we're going to a high of -3C, so I'll install the driveshaft and tranny mount. None of the manuals (Haynes, Chilton or original Ford) show the bracket at the tranny mount, but both cars have them. The six version has the mounting hole/tube on both sides of the tranny (like it was intended for dual exhaust?
When JackFish and I went to the Parts distributor, I noticed a spray degreaser with a lemon concentrate that would work in colder weather. I got distracted and forgot to pick one up. I'll try today with the name brand degreaser to get the motor cleaned up a bit with the old trunk mats underneath, so I can spot any leaks. I don't want to use harsh stuff there, cause we want to landscape this spring and put a pair of cobble-stone 'trails' for the car, and lots of grass to reduce the reflected heat (South side of the house) from hitting the kitchen windows. You get gas or chemicals into our gumbo-clay, and it takes years to dilute or grow anything but dandilions!
Well, we're going to a high of -3C, so I'll install the driveshaft and tranny mount. None of the manuals (Haynes, Chilton or original Ford) show the bracket at the tranny mount, but both cars have them. The six version has the mounting hole/tube on both sides of the tranny (like it was intended for dual exhaust?
When JackFish and I went to the Parts distributor, I noticed a spray degreaser with a lemon concentrate that would work in colder weather. I got distracted and forgot to pick one up. I'll try today with the name brand degreaser to get the motor cleaned up a bit with the old trunk mats underneath, so I can spot any leaks. I don't want to use harsh stuff there, cause we want to landscape this spring and put a pair of cobble-stone 'trails' for the car, and lots of grass to reduce the reflected heat (South side of the house) from hitting the kitchen windows. You get gas or chemicals into our gumbo-clay, and it takes years to dilute or grow anything but dandilions!
It was too cold yesterday (-14C). But I got the parts cleaned up and touched up for reinstallation. I have to change the underhood wiring for the DSII, since mine was a V-8 points distributor, and my starter (Bosch) had a solenoid right on top (too close to the 200 ci exhaust manifold. Too bad cause I just had it rebuilt before the engine died. But this one was rebuilt by the same rebuilder last year.
I'm going to touch up the speedo/guage needles with translucent orange model paint. I hate those faded needles. I guess Ford never heard of UVA/UVB sunray mixtures.
Ah yes! A nice surprise. I was cleaning up the horn from the Canadian 1978, and wondering where I was going to install the Distributor module, because my car has dual-tone stock Mexican horns. Hey, hey! She sings. The Canadian one has a square exit for the sound. The Mexican ones actually have a small 'trumpet-type' exit. About the same size as the regular horn, but two of them. And they do sound like a Train horn! If anybody is looking for some the Mexican manufacturer is PROAUSA SA. de CV. You want one ACUDO (Acute) and one GRAVE (Base or Heavy) tone. I couldn't find a link.
Still leaves me with finding a home for the module. The starter solenoid and voltage regulator may not be too bad, but that emissions/fuel canister may just go back to where the V-8 was (down below the battery at the firewall.) There's a stock bracket for it down there. This car had it on the shock tower.
In the Canadian Forces, I was on the Tank repair crew (RCEME). I've done this wiring stuff before, but you didn't have to hang like a bat to change the stuff under the dash in an Army Tank! I'll take the front seat out, I think.
I'm going to touch up the speedo/guage needles with translucent orange model paint. I hate those faded needles. I guess Ford never heard of UVA/UVB sunray mixtures.
Ah yes! A nice surprise. I was cleaning up the horn from the Canadian 1978, and wondering where I was going to install the Distributor module, because my car has dual-tone stock Mexican horns. Hey, hey! She sings. The Canadian one has a square exit for the sound. The Mexican ones actually have a small 'trumpet-type' exit. About the same size as the regular horn, but two of them. And they do sound like a Train horn! If anybody is looking for some the Mexican manufacturer is PROAUSA SA. de CV. You want one ACUDO (Acute) and one GRAVE (Base or Heavy) tone. I couldn't find a link.
Still leaves me with finding a home for the module. The starter solenoid and voltage regulator may not be too bad, but that emissions/fuel canister may just go back to where the V-8 was (down below the battery at the firewall.) There's a stock bracket for it down there. This car had it on the shock tower.
In the Canadian Forces, I was on the Tank repair crew (RCEME). I've done this wiring stuff before, but you didn't have to hang like a bat to change the stuff under the dash in an Army Tank! I'll take the front seat out, I think.
No, I didn't fade away. My XP2 Machine (computer) died. I spent 2 days trying to get my old Win98 machine up and online, and fixing a blown of heater element on my hotwater tank. What would we be if we weren't challenged?
Anyway, my WinXP2 machine has a special power supply and I'm hoping I can find one here in town or I'll buy another ATX tower.
Back to my Car, the 1979 Squire. I got a break in the weather yesterday with +4C. So I cleaned up the engine and compartment. Like new! I had to take the grill out to get the Air Intake in under the fender from the 1978 donor. The 79 had a spot-welded plate to drill out first. A bit of tin bashing and in it went!
I just realized that my car has a clock! It hasn't worked for a while, so I'll have a look-see if it can be repaired. I want to repaint the speedo needle and fuel-tank needle (Testor fluorescent model paint).
I changed the front bumper. I hit a snow bank once and warped the support brackets. The Canadian car (1978) has a telescopic frame mount, whereas the Mexican car's are solid steel tubes (3/16" wall).
Started on the electrics today -removing the dash wiring. The donor doesn't have all the options mine does (no light in the ashtray, no clock, no underhood engine compartment light) so I have to merge the two.
I'm going to make custom grills for the Station Wagon speakers. One side was already punched through
and my car only came with the center mounted front dash speaker, so I'm going to modify mine to install the two little ones, and the two new 6" X 9" speakers, where the original rear wagon speakers were. The donor came with a nice Toshiba AM/FM cassette radio. I had a Panasonic but I messed up the digital display and I like the radio knob adjustment on this Toshiba - you don't have to look down.
Onward and upward.
Addo, I've got a break in the weather for another week! Running around
-5C.
Anyway, my WinXP2 machine has a special power supply and I'm hoping I can find one here in town or I'll buy another ATX tower.
Back to my Car, the 1979 Squire. I got a break in the weather yesterday with +4C. So I cleaned up the engine and compartment. Like new! I had to take the grill out to get the Air Intake in under the fender from the 1978 donor. The 79 had a spot-welded plate to drill out first. A bit of tin bashing and in it went!
I just realized that my car has a clock! It hasn't worked for a while, so I'll have a look-see if it can be repaired. I want to repaint the speedo needle and fuel-tank needle (Testor fluorescent model paint).
I changed the front bumper. I hit a snow bank once and warped the support brackets. The Canadian car (1978) has a telescopic frame mount, whereas the Mexican car's are solid steel tubes (3/16" wall).
Started on the electrics today -removing the dash wiring. The donor doesn't have all the options mine does (no light in the ashtray, no clock, no underhood engine compartment light) so I have to merge the two.
I'm going to make custom grills for the Station Wagon speakers. One side was already punched through
and my car only came with the center mounted front dash speaker, so I'm going to modify mine to install the two little ones, and the two new 6" X 9" speakers, where the original rear wagon speakers were. The donor came with a nice Toshiba AM/FM cassette radio. I had a Panasonic but I messed up the digital display and I like the radio knob adjustment on this Toshiba - you don't have to look down.Onward and upward.
Addo, I've got a break in the weather for another week! Running around
-5C.
One other thing to consider with all this subframe swapping is that the later subframes incorporated some changes to improve suspension geometry. With the later frames it's possible to increase caster and the mounting points on the steering rack is slightly revised for less bumpsteer. If you can adapt a late subframe it may improve the handling on your car.
Also, I don't recall the exact year, but sometime in the mid-eighties (85-86?) ford went to an improved low friction ball joint that is supposed to be a significant improvement over the early ones. Easiest thing to do is to grab a set of lower control arms and spindles from a late Fox or SN-95 Mustang to bolt on.
Also, I don't recall the exact year, but sometime in the mid-eighties (85-86?) ford went to an improved low friction ball joint that is supposed to be a significant improvement over the early ones. Easiest thing to do is to grab a set of lower control arms and spindles from a late Fox or SN-95 Mustang to bolt on.
In Manitoba, the mechanics are PR techs (Parts replcement) They certify the car if it has Original or Equivalent parts. My car came stock (from Mexico) with the bigger Police Special brake drums (wider and thicker). I had the car completely refreshed at a Ford Dealer in Guadalajara, Mexico, before we left. We were hauling a 1.5 tonne utility trailer from there to here (2,600 miles). When I got it here, the car had to be certified for Insurance. The mechanic wouldn't pass it with the bigger drums, even though the Police car version is listed, but not for wagons in Canada. I had to buy new Canadian drums and linings for the back end. He didn't say squat about the front discs.
The Six subframe from the 78 Fairmont went in easy, and my own Power steering system will serve as a good spare. Just the hoses are $145 each! The steering links are good on both cars, but if I'm stuck somewhere and there's only an 85-ish car around, I'll know what to do to get on the road again. It's hard to throw stuff out when you know that parts are getting rarer every day.
The Six subframe from the 78 Fairmont went in easy, and my own Power steering system will serve as a good spare. Just the hoses are $145 each! The steering links are good on both cars, but if I'm stuck somewhere and there's only an 85-ish car around, I'll know what to do to get on the road again. It's hard to throw stuff out when you know that parts are getting rarer every day.
Well I got the dash off of mine. I can honestly say I admire the mechanics and bodyshop guys who had to repair or replace a dash or an AC part. What a piece of plumbing! Since the car is 28 years old, the styrene dash framework is cracked in places, so I'm going to the Model Aircraft shop to pick up some repair materials. The challenge is merging the two wiring harnesses. My car has a few options that the 78 sedan didn't, whereas mine lacks the wiring for the heated tailgate window. In Mexico, they come with a tinted glass and no heating element. When mine was shot with a BB gun by some kids, the Ford Dealership installed a new one with the element, but no wiring or Circuit breaker/Fuse Link.
Mine has a little black box that was mounted underneath the steering column, but I don't have a clue what its for. Its a MotorCraft part with large grey connectors (6 wires). I know its not a Cruise Control, because I have one of those black boxes.
My car didn't come with the rear deicer switch in the heater control box, so I have to Dremel out the rectangle to insert it. I'm going to keep the underdash AC box, because I have the extra 2 vents for the high/low circulation. But the AC functionality goes. We get one month of 85 to 05 degree weather here, except Southern Saskatchewan where they can hit 110. I can fly cheaper than drive it or take a Northern highway (its nicer anyway.)
The one thing that really surprised me is that there is only one Circuit Breaker in mine. I've never had an electrical problem, even in our -20 winters. The last battery lasted 7 years. The 78 seems to have 6 or 7 CBs. Its gonna be a another week with no car. Thank goodness for wiring diagrams.
Mine has a little black box that was mounted underneath the steering column, but I don't have a clue what its for. Its a MotorCraft part with large grey connectors (6 wires). I know its not a Cruise Control, because I have one of those black boxes.
My car didn't come with the rear deicer switch in the heater control box, so I have to Dremel out the rectangle to insert it. I'm going to keep the underdash AC box, because I have the extra 2 vents for the high/low circulation. But the AC functionality goes. We get one month of 85 to 05 degree weather here, except Southern Saskatchewan where they can hit 110. I can fly cheaper than drive it or take a Northern highway (its nicer anyway.)
The one thing that really surprised me is that there is only one Circuit Breaker in mine. I've never had an electrical problem, even in our -20 winters. The last battery lasted 7 years. The 78 seems to have 6 or 7 CBs. Its gonna be a another week with no car. Thank goodness for wiring diagrams.
The Black box is the Variable Speed Wiper control. Whew! Thought maybe it was a secret GPS tracker :roll:
My good warm days are fading for a while. Today and tomorrow, although right now, its -24C with the Windchill factor. It's going to a balmy -4C this afternoon. The 14 day forecast calls for about 6 days of -15C to -23C in daytime and colder at night.
I think I work faster in this cold weather, because I have to plan each detail and sequence. In the summer, you can almost do things in any order, but in this deep-freeze, the stuff under the car has to get done before the wheels freeze into the deep snow. No electrics, no Neutral Switch. No Neutral Switch, No Speed Control, no speedo cable, no transmission fluid. Hah the balmy days of summer.
My good warm days are fading for a while. Today and tomorrow, although right now, its -24C with the Windchill factor. It's going to a balmy -4C this afternoon. The 14 day forecast calls for about 6 days of -15C to -23C in daytime and colder at night.
I think I work faster in this cold weather, because I have to plan each detail and sequence. In the summer, you can almost do things in any order, but in this deep-freeze, the stuff under the car has to get done before the wheels freeze into the deep snow. No electrics, no Neutral Switch. No Neutral Switch, No Speed Control, no speedo cable, no transmission fluid. Hah the balmy days of summer.
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