Hi everybody I am building a 1968 Mustang with a 200 inline six and an automatic transmission. When I’m done with it I want the car to be my daily driver so I'm looking to increase gas mileage over performance. Does anyone know what sort of simple mods I could do to get better gas mileage I think I get high teens now. Any help would be appreciated.
gas mileage help
- Thread starter i_lang
- Start date
early ford fan
Well-known member
if you can find a 81-83 200 it will mostly bolt to an aod transmission.good luck though.i went the four junkyards yesterday looking for a 67-80 bellhousing.
Explorer
Well-known member
The Duraspark is a new distributor and a control module. Wrecking yard is a fine place to find one cheap and pull the wiring harness with it. Thats the cheapest route. The dizzy and box can be found at most parts stores and NAPA also sells the plugs if you wish to make your own harness. The vacuum gauge can be hooked to any full manifold vacuum port. If you have an automatic, you can T into that line or vacuum booster if you have power brakes.
Howdy Back i:
And welcome to the Forum!! When you say you are building a 200, do you mean a complete overhaul, or just bolt-on and upgrades? Being you're from Ontario, Canada, I'm assuming that your '68 200 is comparable to a 48 state type engine specs; smaller cfm Autolite 1100 and a point type distributor with both centrifugal and vacuum advance? is that correct? This combination is unique to '68 & '69 200s. What is the elevation in your locale?
While waiting for you to give us some more details of your plans and budget, you can improve your daily drive mileage by increasing you initial advance by 5 degrees more than stock specs call for. For example a 1965 200 with an auto trans calls for 12 degrees of initial advance. By setting the advance at 15 to 17 degrees you will gain mpg and throttle response. Also reduce all weight possible and air up your tires to 10% more than the DOT max psi on the sidewalls calls for. For example if the Max rating is 32 psi, try 36
And make sure that your engine's automatic choke is set for the quickest opening and the accelerator pump is at it's leanest setting. Lower idle speed to just above dying at a stop light. Keep your winter thermostat in year round. Don't idle every! Start up and drive off, slowly for the first 5 minutes or so. You engine will warm up more quickly and efficiently while under load as opposed to idling.
Building and engine for economy is like building an engine for power. Efficiency is the key and that comes with a refined plan of parts and machining.
AKT the most critical component to optimum mileage is the driver.
Again, welcome and keep the info coming.
Adios, David
And welcome to the Forum!! When you say you are building a 200, do you mean a complete overhaul, or just bolt-on and upgrades? Being you're from Ontario, Canada, I'm assuming that your '68 200 is comparable to a 48 state type engine specs; smaller cfm Autolite 1100 and a point type distributor with both centrifugal and vacuum advance? is that correct? This combination is unique to '68 & '69 200s. What is the elevation in your locale?
While waiting for you to give us some more details of your plans and budget, you can improve your daily drive mileage by increasing you initial advance by 5 degrees more than stock specs call for. For example a 1965 200 with an auto trans calls for 12 degrees of initial advance. By setting the advance at 15 to 17 degrees you will gain mpg and throttle response. Also reduce all weight possible and air up your tires to 10% more than the DOT max psi on the sidewalls calls for. For example if the Max rating is 32 psi, try 36
And make sure that your engine's automatic choke is set for the quickest opening and the accelerator pump is at it's leanest setting. Lower idle speed to just above dying at a stop light. Keep your winter thermostat in year round. Don't idle every! Start up and drive off, slowly for the first 5 minutes or so. You engine will warm up more quickly and efficiently while under load as opposed to idling.
Building and engine for economy is like building an engine for power. Efficiency is the key and that comes with a refined plan of parts and machining.
AKT the most critical component to optimum mileage is the driver.
Again, welcome and keep the info coming.
Adios, David
Okay i going to check out the duraspark stuff thanks.
I'm doing mostly bolt-ons and upgrades just for saving money. My mustang is actually originaly from florida so thats the engine stuff it has. i just bought the car but i think that in somepoint in the past it has been rebuilt because the inside of the engine is in decent condition (not ripped up by piston rings). i am 250 ft above sea level so i don't know how much of a difference that would make. Do you have any idea how i would change the idle speed is it something i would change on the carb?
Thanks everybody for all your help
Ian.
I'm doing mostly bolt-ons and upgrades just for saving money. My mustang is actually originaly from florida so thats the engine stuff it has. i just bought the car but i think that in somepoint in the past it has been rebuilt because the inside of the engine is in decent condition (not ripped up by piston rings). i am 250 ft above sea level so i don't know how much of a difference that would make. Do you have any idea how i would change the idle speed is it something i would change on the carb?
Thanks everybody for all your help
Ian.
i_lang":pr82t366 said:
Check out the ignition pages at www.gofastforless.com for a cheap education on economical ignition upgrades; even if you choose to go a different route you will be better informed.
Joe
Howdy Back i:
Let me suggest that you invest in a Shop Manual for your year Mustang. As you want to do stuff and get knowledgeable about your car a Service Manual is invaluable. They run about $50 and are worth every penny. There is a section in it on the carb on your car and on tuning it. There are photos too. A Service Manual is the next best thing to having someone to show you.
The advantages of the DuraSpark II system is that it eliminates points and the need to set and replace points periodically. The system offers a stronger, more reliable spark to the plugs. The system includes the distributor, a module (box), a specific coil, Spark plug wires and a wiring harness that links all parts together.
IF you're getting high teens MPG now, you're doing pretty good. Did the previous owner give you any information on what might have been done to the engine?
There are two easy adjustments on the carb. One is the idle mixture or low speed air screw. On an Autolite 1100 it is at the base of the carb on the side away from the engine. It has a round slotted screw head with a coiled spring on the shank between the head of the screw and the carb base. It is used to adjust the air-to-fuel ratio on the idle circuit of the engine. It can effect the idle speed, but is best to use to get maximum power and efficiency from off idle to mid engine speed. The other is the idle or curb idle screw. It is located on the linkage arm. It typically has a hex head, is slotted and also has a spring on the shank. It is used to set the idle speed once the choke opened completely. If the choke is in operation the idle is determined by the fast idle cam as part of a cold start. The fast idle screw is on the underside of the linkage and should be left alone at this point.
A vacuum guage can be used to tune an engine as well as to give feedback to the driver on getting the best mileage. The goal is to achieve the highest vacuum reading at all times. It must be hooked up to a full manifold vacuum source, somewhere below the carb.
Questions????
Adios, David
Let me suggest that you invest in a Shop Manual for your year Mustang. As you want to do stuff and get knowledgeable about your car a Service Manual is invaluable. They run about $50 and are worth every penny. There is a section in it on the carb on your car and on tuning it. There are photos too. A Service Manual is the next best thing to having someone to show you.
The advantages of the DuraSpark II system is that it eliminates points and the need to set and replace points periodically. The system offers a stronger, more reliable spark to the plugs. The system includes the distributor, a module (box), a specific coil, Spark plug wires and a wiring harness that links all parts together.
IF you're getting high teens MPG now, you're doing pretty good. Did the previous owner give you any information on what might have been done to the engine?
There are two easy adjustments on the carb. One is the idle mixture or low speed air screw. On an Autolite 1100 it is at the base of the carb on the side away from the engine. It has a round slotted screw head with a coiled spring on the shank between the head of the screw and the carb base. It is used to adjust the air-to-fuel ratio on the idle circuit of the engine. It can effect the idle speed, but is best to use to get maximum power and efficiency from off idle to mid engine speed. The other is the idle or curb idle screw. It is located on the linkage arm. It typically has a hex head, is slotted and also has a spring on the shank. It is used to set the idle speed once the choke opened completely. If the choke is in operation the idle is determined by the fast idle cam as part of a cold start. The fast idle screw is on the underside of the linkage and should be left alone at this point.
A vacuum guage can be used to tune an engine as well as to give feedback to the driver on getting the best mileage. The goal is to achieve the highest vacuum reading at all times. It must be hooked up to a full manifold vacuum source, somewhere below the carb.
Questions????
Adios, David
i just bought a service manual ebay thanks for the advice it sounds like a good thing to have.
the person i bought i from thought it had been rebuilt but he wasnt 100% sure. I think that it has at some point but i dont know what they will have done.
i did just put a new water pump and a rad on because they were both in brutal shape.
i am going to look into the duraspark thing now because it seemed most people thought it would be a good idea.
thanks for the help everybody
the person i bought i from thought it had been rebuilt but he wasnt 100% sure. I think that it has at some point but i dont know what they will have done.
i did just put a new water pump and a rad on because they were both in brutal shape.
i am going to look into the duraspark thing now because it seemed most people thought it would be a good idea.
thanks for the help everybody
