Getting Ready to Old School Hot Rod a 223

C

Cosmotiki

Active member
I'm brand new to the board, but thought I'd share my exploits. I've finally collected almost all the old-school hot rod bits I can find for the 223 in my '56 Effie: Offy 2 pot intake, Patriot split header with Smithy's, Barker hi-lift rocker arms (for both I & E), OE steel head gasket & Pertronix Ignitor II w/ Flamethrower coil. The previous owner says the engine was rebuilt, and given how smooth it runs and how clean it looks under the valve & lifter covers, I think he was telling the truth.

Before I start throwing part at it, I need to compression test the engine, and then if I can finagle some dyno time, I'd like to get a hp/torque baseline before adding the go-fast parts to see what the final result produces.

One other thing... I'm hoping to make this truck my daily driver, so I've opted to swap a T-5 for the old 3-on-the-tree using one of John Mummert's adaptors... not cheap, but if I can roll w/ SoCal freeway traffic and not get run over by semi's, it will be worth it.

I've been sponging info from the members here for a couple of months, but would appreciate any additional thoughts before I start wrenching in the next couple of weeks.

I'd like to know how much anyone's successfully shaved off the head, what's the most compression anyone's successfully run (keep in mind my truck's intended to be a daily driver), and what the max RPM is that you twist the stock motor to (I don't want to go into the bottom end to balance things, replace rod bolts, etc.)?
 
June 1 update: I've finagled some dyno time to establish the baseline of the stock motor on Friday 6/9. I'll post results afterwards.

Note that I plan to first swap in the T5 before hot-rodding the motor (my commute is 55 miles each way on SoCal freeways... not fun w/ the stock 3spd and 4.11 gears). The only piece I've been told I need to complete the swap (other than having the driveshaft shortened) is a late model Mustang disc that is the same as, or very close to the thickness of the OE 223 disc... anyone have any experience with this???
 
I am unfamiliar with Mummert's conversion parts.. so if these parts are covered by his kit im sorry in advance, but I want to know about
Shifter linkage, stock or replaced? What do you do about the collar on the column that the original shifter was located in?
Shifter (obviously replaced) but what do you use instead?
Crossmember?
Speedometer cable attachment?
Are you going to shorten your driveline?
Do '56 have a real 9" rearend? Could you change the gears to something more highway friendly like 3.73 or 3.55?


sorry, no answers, just more questions
-ron
 
CoupeBoy,
Mummert (www.ford-y-block.com) offers 3 pieces to adapt a T5 to a Y-block, which also works behind the 223; an adaptor plate to mate the trans to the bellhousing, a clutch bracket (for F100s), and a sleeve to adapt the OE T/O bearing to the smaller T5 input shaft.

Jim Rupe in San Diego provided the hybrid trans which uses a Chevy S10 case (which has the shifter on top in approx same location as the Ford truck 4spd box's location) & a Mustang input shaft (to accomodate Mummert's adaptor plate). I haven't gotten to the point of removing the 3spd linkage yet. I don't think it'll be an issue, but will report on my findings if it is.

The T5 box is surprisingly short & much lighter than the OE 3 spd, so no additional cross-member is needed since the truck bellhousing provides support. The driveshaft does need to be shortened (I'll measure this once the T5 is in the truck), and a new clutch disc is needed that is the same diameter & thickness as the OE disc, but has a Mustang center spline (still need this but don't have the OE disc out yet to start searching for the correct part). Also, the rear trans yoke is Chevy, but the U-joint size is identical to Ford so no need to change the front yoke on the driveshaft.

Mid-Fifty in AZ reportedly carries a new speedo cable to mate the Chevy trans to the Effie's speedo head.

'56 was the last year for the old Spicer rear end ('57 was the first year for the 9" in F100's), so gear ratio changes aren't as easy. Plus, the previous owner had completely rebuilt the rear axle and the 223 really likes the low gear ratio when starting from a stop, so the T5 seemed like the best overall solution (though not inexpensive).

Thanks also for the links... I'll check them out.
 
I'm curious about one other thing. What about the pilot bearing? Will an original work in this application?
 
I've been told it will w/ the late model Mustang input shaft, but need to confirm this once the trans is out... hopefully next weekend.
 
Well, as it sometimes goes when you're trying to call in a favor (read "freebie!"), I got bumped from my dyno baseline pull this past Friday. It's now set up for this coming Friday, but if it doesn't happen then, I'll have to pass as I've got a lot of out-of-town business travel scheduled and need to devote my remaining weekends on installing the T5, followed by the engine mods... more to follow.
 
Life's thrown me several curve ball's since my last post, which put a serious damper on my project (let me know if anyone's looking for consuting expertise in automotive marketing/branding/strategic planning!). I won't bore you with those details but will provide an update.

1) I was never able to get the baseline dyno run done, so everything I provide going forward on performance will be purely subjective, which is too bad. I really thought I'd be able to provide some good tech info on performance gains... c'est la vie.

2) The T-5 was swapped in using Mummert's adaptor, the stock 223 cover, the stock TO bearing and a McLeod disc. Note that I developed a progressively worsening take off shudder from the clutch that would actually knock it out of first gear (Uggh!). Ultimately, I had to take it all back apart and took the cover and plate to McLeod. Their investigation revealed that the cover actuating levers were not set at the same height. I sacrificed a feeler guage set and after MUCH trial & error, finally was able to set the levers to within 0.001". After reassembly, TA-DA - no more shudder! The swap also requires shortening the driveline and adapting a new shifter (another eBay find). My T-5 is a hybrid between Mustang internals & gear ratios and an S-10 case (forward shifter placement). I bought the trans from a guy Mummert recommended, but he's since moved/retired (I think). From a seat o' the pants persepective, what a difference! I can run from a stop with all the other traffic that seems to be in such a @)$)*~#^&! hurry here in SoCal, and keep up at freeway speeds while only twisting the motor to about 2200 rpm (need a new speedo gear, then I'll post RPM @ MPH info but I believe I'm running between 70 & 75, given "normal" SoCal freeway speeds).

3) Pertronix Ignitor 2 and Coil - Purely subjective, but the engine seems 'punchier' and more perky. I've been a believer in Pertronix for a while, and feel this add really improved general driveability.

4) Barker Hi-Lift rocker arms - Despite the instructions indicating these were only for the intake side, I subsribe to the "If some's good, a whole bunch is great!" theory and have them on both I & E side. I haven't noticed any change at idle. I've got lash set at their recommendation (0.018" I think), but haven't had a chance to play with the math on the OE cam's lift/duration and experiment with different valve lashes yet. I also need to spec the cam to insure it is at factory lift/duration, and not reground. As for performance, the engine seems to pull stronger up my test hill in the mid-high RPM range. It does feel choked by the stock intake set-up.

5) My truck's been down for a while now as I decided to paint the block, use my Eastwood powder-coater on pulleys, replace as much hardware with polished SS as possible and install: Offy dual intake, Sacto Vintage Ford (Patriot brand) split header and Smithy's dual exhaust (with provision for flame-throwers, of course!)

6) The intake, I now believe, is for a 215 as the port size is slightly smaller than my 223. It was an eBay buy & I didn't know any better at the time, but I think it should work just fine as is - I'm not going to waste more time w/ port matching unless someone has experience to the contrary. I spent WAY more time than I should have building throttle linkage, but now it's dead on and pretty trick.

What's left to do? Figure out how to plumb PCV into the manifold and provide vacuum to the PB booster and distributor, rebuild the 1904's and rejet them, run fuel lines, run vacuum line to the distributor, then tune, tune, tune & hope I don't regret any of this.

I'll post pictures as soon as I can figure out how to do it, and will report my findings as I get "Elvis" back on the road.
 
The saga continues... :cry: Yesterday, I stripped down the 4 Holley carbs I have (3 complete and 1 'parts' carb), bead blasted them and got them ready for powder coat and rebuild. As I'm looking through them, however, they're all different! Different venturi sizes (visual inspection only - I don't have a mike that will fit down into the venturi), different throttle plate sizes, different accelerator pump pivot locations and one has a different power valve set up. YIKES!!! I thought all 1904's were the same, but obviously not. My education at UHK (University of Hard Knocks) continues... :evil:

Does anyone out there have 2 matching 1904's available, or sources for finding a matching pair that won't cost an arm and a leg? I've been watching eBay, but it's a crap shoot on what you get and if it matches (which is why I'm at, where I'm at now!)

Thx!!!
 
Nice work on building the 223.

I'm in a similar boat with trying to match up 1904, 1908 or 1960's; they all get advertised as 1904s. Post or send me pictures of your carburators. I might have a match.
 
Thanks for the info John. I've got a 'matched' pair of 1904 carbs on their way courtesy of eBay (buy stock, they're makin' a fortune off of me!). They're supposedly from a Gray Fireball marine engine (Oohh, they must be fast!) I'll get pics and confirm carb #'s once they arrive. Hopefully, this is the last (major) hurdle. I'm itching to hit the Saturday morning cruises to Donut Derelicts.
 
Thanks for posting all of the info!

I've seen those high lift rocker arms on ebay and was wondering about them.

I bought a '62 f100 with about 12k on the rebuilt motor. 2 weeks later I cracked the head going up our local grade. I have the motor out and down to the short block. I'll post more info on the cracked head in a seperate thread. I want to find out why it cracked!

Before cracking the head, I put a smithy's 18" (i think that's the length) glass pack from Sacto Vintage Ford on the exhaust. It was REALLY quiet. I wanted something a lot louder. How does yours sound with the duals and the smithys???

When I took the top end apart I found that the cast iron exhaust manifold was cracked on the side facing the block. Good excuse to upgrade to split headers and dual exhaust. Any opinion on the Clifford vs. patriot?

Thanks for any advice. I would like to see photos of your truck.

Shane
 
Hey Shane - Sorry to hear about the manifold cracking... seems like an odd failure but I'm by no means an expert on these old I-6's. I haven't started by truck since I put the duals on it, but will report back once I (finally) get it running. I started off w/ the original muffler, and if it weren't for the tach, you wouldn't know it was running it was so quiet (actually, kinda cool).

I then put a single Dynomax turbo-style muffler on it. It was definitely louder but sounded like the UPS truck, which my wife, son and a couple neighbors pointed out, much to my dismay. I'm hoping the dual Smithy's will give it a period 'rap'. I believe mine are the 26" (middle size) versions.

As for Clifford vs. Patriot, I chose the latter strictly based on price (and nothing readily available on eBay when I was ready to buy). While I suspect there may be more engineering behind the Clifford, as I recall, the Patriot w/ ceramic coating was comparable to the plain steel Clifford. From a quality standpoint, I'm satisfied w/ the Patriot (although the head flange is a little rough). The tube lengths are very close to equal length, the bends are nice and mandrel formed, and it fits!
 
"Elvis" is a 1956 F-100, and is still very much a work-in-progress. Spent most if it's life as a Riverside County truck in the Coachella area, so the cab, doors and hood were 100% rust free. Everything else was dented beyond recognition and have been replaced.

The design concept will be a late 50's/early 60's kustom vibe in HOK Pagan Gold w/ Burple scallops accented by white outline pinstriping. The interior is predominantly white, with the upholstery planned to be white and metalflake gold pleated nauga-beast. Currently, Elvis has a stock dash, but that will be replaced with a complete dash out of a '56 T-bird... somewhere down the road when I have time.
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1110/579 ... 04.jpg?v=0
Big plans, but little budget and less time!
 
Killer Motor, Cosmo. You and I are on similar paths... My 223 long block is a weak or so to being finished. Using Dayton Yellow, with Satin Black covers and components, but I dig the white and polished combo you're sporten as well.

My block is bored .060, decked .030, with all swinging internal balanced. I like your Offy stuff, but I'm going with a Clifford intake, a single Holley 4V pulling 390 cfm, and the Clifford header set up. Also using a Clifford cam with 399 lift and 260 durations, plus we've enlarged the exhaust valves to the using Ford 351's.

I'm pretty stoked. Have you fired yours up yet? How's it run and sound? What are your exhaust plans.

Also, what is your rear axle and wheel set up... it seems to both stand tall and fill up the fenders pretty well right to the edge?

Brian
 
Hey Phity- I'll be interested in how your internal mods turn out, though if mine runs the way I hope, I'll probably leave well enough alone. Haven't fired it yet, but hope to this weekend. With graduations and some family emergencies, not sure if it'll happen but I'll update everyone when I do with (hopefully) great news.

For exhaust, I've gone w/ 26"(?) Smithy's & 2.25 dual exhaust straight out the back (with flamethrowers, of course!). I have no idea how it sounds. All my other projects have Flowmasters behind FoMoCo V8s, so we'll see.

Rear tires are 285/70r15 BFGs which do consume the wheel well (what I was looking for). They are about 1/4" too wide and will rub the sidewall slightly (the rear is lowered via removed leaves and a drop spring hanger), so I've added air shocks to allow me to carry weight in the bed and lift the rear just a bit.

The rear gear is the stock 4.11 Spicer. It seems to work well together although ultimately I've got a 9" out of a '63 F100 that I'll install, and I'll probably change the wheel/tire combo to ET-III simulated spindle mounts, window rears and whitewall cheater slicks.

Then again, maybe I'll just drive it for a change!
 
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