hard starts when cold; what's up?

LaGrasta

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Just as the subject lines suggest, when it's hot, I have to hold the key just right to get it to turn over fast enough to start. It's embarrising. :cry:

ignition switch, starter solenoid?
 
LaGrasta":1ou4ds5i said:
Just as the subject lines suggest, when it's hot, I have to hold the key just right to get it to turn over fast enough to start. It's embarrising. :cry:

ignition switch, starter solenoid?

Not sure what you got subject line says hard starts cold but the post says hard start hot?????????????

Hard start cold could be
choke (not enough)
accelator pump (not enough shot of gas if any)
timming

Hard start hot could be
timming
heat soaked starter ( starter well turn real slow)
over heating (boiling out carb gas)
bad power valve (draining carb when shut off flooding motor)
maybe the ign switch with the way you discribe it.. as holding the key in just the right place (as well a mounth)..

good luck
tim
 
pedal2themetal45":15wy9e48 said:
LaGrasta":15wy9e48 said:
Hard start hot could be
timming
heat soaked starter ( starter well turn real slow)
over heating (boiling out carb gas)
bad power valve (draining carb when shut off flooding motor)
maybe the ign switch with the way you discribe it.. as holding the key in just the right place (as well a mounth)..

good luck
tim

I think you may have narrowed it down to two; timing and ignition switch. My timing is really advanced, 20+. My ignition switch is really shot too. I can push and pull the key in and out in any location. I haven't tried it, but I bet anything I could shove anything in there and it would start the car. I guess I'll buy the switch and rule that out since mine is so worn anyway.
 
I had the same thing on the bronco, I figured it was heat soak at the starter (being the turbo is on the same side). Wrong, I forgot to tighten my connections at the battery post (make sure they are clean, too). Sometimes it is the smallest things overlooked. But yeah, check your starter selenoid, too. Mine is fixing to go out, because sometimes I will turn the key off the engine keeps running (I have already replaced the ignition switch). Good luck.

Kirk
 
Hay kirkallen
I don't think you silonid is you prob... the silonid has nothing to do with it running on...
does it contenu to run good or does it shake (kind of chug-chug) and then stop??
Thats called Disseling causes
idle to fast
running to rich
timming
or if it run good when shut off them maybe theres feed back in the elect circut. I had a race car that did that after I fliped the kill switch it would contenu to run for a few sec. I was getting power feed back from the fan switch. I had it wired wrong..
tim
 
pedal2themetal45":71i6i0vj said:
Hay kirkallen
I don't think you silonid is you prob... the silonid has nothing to do with it running on...
does it contenu to run good or does it shake (kind of chug-chug) and then stop??
Thats called Disseling causes
idle to fast
running to rich
timming
or if it run good when shut off them maybe theres feed back in the elect circut. I had a race car that did that after I fliped the kill switch it would contenu to run for a few sec. I was getting power feed back from the fan switch. I had it wired wrong..
tim

No it is not dieseling, it really probably is the 34 year old wiring still in it. It has not done it in awhile, but when it does I just step on the brake put it in gear and let the clutch loose to stop it. Then I go under the hood and loosen my battery disconnect I have on it. Works evertime.

Kirk
 
OK
but next time it does it after you kill it and the key is off befor you pull the battery cable maybe check the coil for power with a test light as well as the ign side of the sylinoid.. You might be experanceing power feed back from the alt. I've heard of that befor.. especialy if you've upgarded the alt/generator. If there is no power at the coil after you kill it that may be the prob sence the alt isn't moving anymore and not producing power, and not the sylinoid.
Just a though
take care
tim
 
Anthony, the key part and the electrical switch are sold separately. My experience of the NAPA key barrels (Echlin brand) is that they're not red-hot, even brand new.

Anyhow - as you pointed out, it will eliminate the vagueness at one end. I had my new ignition barrel re-keyed to suit the original door locks (HATE excess keys with a passion). That was about $45 extra.

Cheers, Adam.
 
pedal2themetal45":1hu38ynr said:
Hay kirkallen
I don't think you silonid is you prob... the silonid has nothing to do with it running on...
does it contenu to run good or does it shake (kind of chug-chug) and then stop??
Thats called Disseling causes
idle to fast
running to rich
timming
or if it run good when shut off them maybe theres feed back in the elect circut. I had a race car that did that after I fliped the kill switch it would contenu to run for a few sec. I was getting power feed back from the fan switch. I had it wired wrong..
tim

the Ford remote solonoids can backfeed, all it has to do is allow a small amount of current into the I terminal and it will stay running.
 
the hard starts are likely related to how much advance you have - too much advance will cause that.
as for the running on, it may be the solenoid. to check, next time it does it, just crack the hood and pull the wire off the I terminal of the solenoid. it its the cause, itll die like when you turn off the key.
solenoids do that sometimes - my battery disconnect (solenoid controlled by a toggle on the dash) let a trickle of power through a few days ago - it was just enough to keep the stereo running only if everything else was turned off.
--josh
 
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