Headers on a 200ci...how much difference?

[jcom4179]

I was speaking with Modern Driveline, he recommended getting a t5 from an 85-93 mustang. If you contact them with what you have, they can tell you if they have the parts to make it work. Also, I have a 67 mustang

Hey Don, that some great information. I would love to put a T5 in the 67. I didn't know 85 to 93 mustangs had T5 transmissions. They could possibly hook me up with just the transmission, or everything, like clutch assembly and whatever else I would need to make it work. I'll check them out. I didn't know you had a 67. Is it a coupe convertible or fast back. I'm sure it has a 200!!! Have you done anything to beef up performance in that straight 6?
Thanks for the great info, I'm going to follow up on that and see what they say
Thanks again
Jeff

 

[DON]

Soy for the delayed response . Sometimes life gets in the way.
I have upgraded the carb to the Webber 32/36 and did the DUI distributor. Helped drivability a lot. Also have upgraded front brakes to v8 size while doing a five lug conversion. I had to get a new drive shaft from Modern Driveline, the original did not hold the u-joint cups tight, I dimpled the inside with a punch, that helped some but didn’t want problems. The rest of the driveline is stock. I have a second engine that is in progress, it will have extensive upgrades.

 

[funkaholik]

I recently purchased a set of the eBay stainless headers that have been ceramic coated from fordsix member @DannyG (thanks, Dan!)

My plan this winter is to dyno my car, add the headers, weld up an exhaust, and then dyno the car again without making any other changes. That should give us a real-world answer to how much difference adding just headers makes on a car with a stock autolite 1100, stock head, cam, etc. The only mod I will have before the first dyno session is an Aussie Bosch electronic distributor.

I will report back here when I have results.

 

[chad]

C the chart in Tech Archive. Compaire
and contrast yours.

 

[78_200_C4]

Your "a real-world answer to how much difference adding just headers makes on a car with a stock autolite 1100, stock head, cam, etc" does not take into consideration which stock exhaust system is used or whether a Load'O'Matic carb distributor is used.
Early Falcons had a round muffler with a 1-1/2" tail pipe.
The Load'O'Matic had a major part in making the small Ford six legendary as the lowest performing OHV six ever made.

 

[chad]

Ford Six HotRod Articles

Ive compiled as many of the HotRod Magazine articles from the 60's as i personally own. Im sure im missing a few and if anyone wants better pictures of a certain part of a page let me know which one and ill try to get it for you.

fordsix.com

 

[DON]

Your "a real-world answer to how much difference adding just headers makes on a car with a stock autolite 1100, stock head, cam, etc" does not take into consideration which stock exhaust system is used or whether a Load'O'Matic carb distributor is used.
Early Falcons had a round muffler with a 1-1/2" tail pipe.
The Load'O'Matic had a major part in making the small Ford six legendary as the lowest performing OHV six ever made.

I agree, that’s why I recommend a carb upgrade and by doing that, a distributor upgrade is need. I think those are the best, most economical improvements to start with, provided you have a somewhat sound engine to begin with

 

[chad]

AKMiller shown real performance measures of incremental changes. ('Horsing Around', etc)
One can ID specific ‘add-ons achieved’ by specific components (of a cumulative nature).

 

[78_200_C4]

AKMiller shown real performance measures of incremental changes. ('Horsing Around', etc)
One can ID specific ‘add-ons achieved’ by specific components (of a cumulative nature).

Get rid of the Load'O'Matic and the 1-1/2" outlet muffler first.
According to real world practical experience:
A header is better without the Load'O'Matic.
A 200 with a quick advance curve all in by 2,500 along with a 68 2" outlet exhaust manifold or a 1-3/4" 66 Mustang exhaust will easily out perform a Load'O'Matic 200 with a header.
People who disagree most likely are motivated by parts sales and have no practical experience.
My daily driver has been a 200 small six since 1992. Before that my wife drove a 1966 California emission 200 Sprint Six Mustang coupe for 14 years. I once had a Load'O'Matic 170 4 speed with a header. It was not match for the stock exhaust 66 California emission 200 C4 Mustang which had centrifugal and vacuum advance/

 

[chad]

read them and see...
#1, nota bout sales (or even close), #s 2 - 5 still on power’n speed
8^ )

 

[funkaholik]

The question was asked whether or not a magnet would stick to the eBay “stainless” headers or not. The answer is both yes and no. The header tubes and down pipes are made of stainless, and it looks to be of a pretty good quality, maybe 304. A strong magnet will not stick. The flange that mounts to the head, the collector flange, and the collector itself, are not stainless (or if so, lower level) and a magnet sticks readily to them.

 

[chad]

dozens of companies, no?
Which are of interest? questioned? which did U test?

 

[bmbm40]

That seems like a good price for these headers. I like them, 189, long tube, built in port divider, no clearance issues, how can you do any better?

If these were available for the 250 I would probably get it. I like that built in port divider feature.

 

[drag-200stang]

If these were available for the 250 I would probably get it. I like that built in port divider feature.

Check out Lavron's (RIP) 250 build , he made some simple spacers to make 200 headers fit the 250, but they were shorty headers, I think, something like that may work for you.

 

[bmbm40]

Check out Lavron's (RIP) 250 build , he made some simple spacers to make 200 headers fit the 250, but they were shorty headers, I think, something like that may work for you.

Thank you I do now remember that and yes that will do the job, Lavron did some nice work. Good way to fit those shorty headers on a 250 block. I have the long tube Hookers for the 250 and have gone back and forth about if I will really need headers on the Bronco. I am planning a Rochester small base 2v carb upgrade and so started considering the exhaust upgrade as those two items can provide a decent power increase.
It might be easiest if I go with my Hooker headers to use the port divider.

 

[wsa111]

I am buying Clifford dual outlet headers. I am curious what kind of difference it will make. My exaust currently is as follows...
stock manifold
2.5 inch pipe, Y, dual pipes, dual glasspacks, tips.

so i'm gonna go with TRUE 2.5 inch dual exhausts with glasspacks.

anyone got any experience how much the headers will help? any numbers by chance, or at least driving experience. the motor is stock except for the pertronix conversion...

drew

Your tail pipes are too large. Go with 2" or 2 1/4 diameter to improve flow velocity.

 

[Soldmy66]

Your tail pipes are too large. Go with 2" or 2 1/4 diameter to improve flow velocity.

Agreed. OP - too large of ID/OD of pipe reduces exhaust gas velocity which causes a reduction in exhaust scavenging. Overly large pipe diameter may work well for WOT, but isn't ideal for normal driving conditions.

 

[chad]

“...what kind of difference..."
again, said above. C the wrk done w/search function,
in tech archive (blue horrizontal line top of page)
or
the mag articles.

 

[78_200_C4]

AKMiller shown real performance measures of incremental changes. ('Horsing Around', etc)
One can ID specific ‘add-ons achieved’ by specific components (of a cumulative nature).

Horsing Around with the Mustang Six
1967 Mustang California Emission 200 with centrifugal + vacuum advance.
AK installed an LOM spark valve carb on it!
Not a good idea.
AK did not test the power increase of a header installed on a LOM 200.

 

[chad]

“...did not test.."
I read that as a 1st/early mod

“...installed an LOM spark valve carb..."
and onto 6 Keihins (motorcycle carbs)