Holley 2v conversion help

[blueroo]

I know, I just retuned the 1v on my motor. Part of the reason I didn't want to get a 2v yet is I wanted to see if I could tear the 1v down, tune it a little, put it back together and have the car still run before I went to a more complicated carb.

Well I suceeded in my goal and now I want to put a 2v on. I was talking to the guy at my local speed shop and we decided on a 350cfm Holley 2v with manual choke. There are a few things I need to know however

1) I know I'm going to need an adapter plate to go from the 2v carb to the 1v style manifold. Does anyone make these?

2) Should the carb be oriented any certain way, ie with the choke assembly closest to the valve cover, facing toward the firewall, etc?

3) Can I use the stock choke cable as is or do I need to modify it?

4) Would it be best to switch over to a throttle cable assembly or would it be easier to modify the stock linkage?

5) Would I need entirely new vac lines from the distributor and new fuel lines from the fuel pump?

6) Will the 2v+adapter plate be the same height or lower than the 1v? (this is critical as my Fairlane has very little clearance between the top of the 4 inch round air cleaner I have now and one of the hood braces)

 

[Anonymous]

1) I know I'm going to need an adapter plate to go from the 2v carb to the 1v style manifold. Does anyone make these?
4) Would it be best to switch over to a throttle cable assembly or would it be easier to modify the stock linkage?
5) Would I need entirely new vac lines from the distributor and new fuel lines from the fuel pump?
6) Will the 2v+adapter plate be the same height or lower than the 1v? (this is critical as my Fairlane has very little clearance between the top of the 4 inch round air cleaner I have now and one of the hood braces)

This has been covered so many times in so many threads, I am surprised it isn't a sticky. You might wantt o do a search....you will get more information searching old threads than waiting for new answers.

1)Summit racing carries one, Clifford Performance, Transdapt. The clifford is usually considered the best one.

4) Go cable

5) Vac lines and fuel lines are the LEAST of your worries. Think harder about what you want to eat for lunch.

6) No, it WON'T....it will be quite a bit taller and that is something you will need to conquer.
If you want to REALLY impress people, you can pull the head off and have the carb area of the intake log milled flat, then make an adapter plate so the carb bolts right to the head (search: direct mount). This is the best way to go about it but it is a lot more trouble.

 

[Anonymous]

also, the Motorcraft 2 bbl carbs might be a little shorter than a Holley. Something to investigate.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Blueroo and All:

AKT-
*Your stock 170, Load-o-Matic distributor will not be compatible with a Holley 350;
*An Autolite 2100 two barrel may be the simpliest carb ever, to rebuild and work with. A 1.08 or 1.14 size will be more more compatible with your 170 at 300 CFM rathere then 350. THis carb will not be compatible with the L-o-M either.
*You have several good one barrel carb upgrade options with a 170 that will have a SCV to be compatible with your stock distributor vacuum advance system and not give you a hood clearance problem to solve.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

David, if the Load-O-Matic distributor was to be replaced at the same time as the carb, what would be ideal? (one that would work in a 170)

 

[Anonymous]

I agree, a sticky would help. Maybe just pictures of different set ups with tech data /parts, etc...

http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... light=carb

Info on carb swaps:
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... light=carb
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... light=carb

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Back All:

Linc- I wish there were a simple, definitive answer to that question. Unfortunately, there are many answers. Just about any carb we've talked about on this forum has been used successfully by someone. A case in point- I've had not luck with the late model Holley 1946. You've done very well with one.

THe key is that there is no such thing as the "ideal" carb. There are only carbs that someone believes in and takes the time to understand it and get it to work well with the other systems. Please note the term, "Other systems". Without a corresponding compatible ignition system no carb will reach it's potential.

If Blueroo wants to go with a Holley 350 on his 170 he can do it. Will it be perfect, out of the box or compatible with the L-o-M? NO!!!, but it can be easily and extensively tuned tuned. IT will leave room for future upgrades. It is capable of flowing 350 CFM. It would take a very healthy 170 to be able to utilize that capacity. This carb would be great at higher rpms and wide open throttle, but would be a challenge at all other ranges. WSA111 has been down this road with his Innovate A/F meter and has several suggestions to come close to solving issues. Remember though, each situation is different.

If I were in Blueroo's shoes- limited in; distributor upgrade choices with a '64 block, hood clearance, an otherwise relatively stock engine, I'd
1st explore upgrading to a 200 autolite 1100 one barrel with a SCV for the stock Load-o-Matic distributor. I'd also upgrade the distributor with a Petronix Ignitor. Going from a 170 1100 to a 200 increases cfm from 150 to 185.

If that didn't meet my burning desire to upgrade, I'd next consider a two stage Holley/Weber, and mount it as low as possible.

Adios, David

 

[blueroo]

I believe I'm actually going to try the route suggested a few months ago in the hardcore forum.

Basically, what I want to do is use the Tempo/Topaz/Taurus 1v cfi setup, for hopefully better drivability, economy, and power. I just need some of the questions answered first.