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Anonymous
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Use a can of Berryman's B-12 and blow the bleeds clean from inside out (have to come in where metering plate comes off)
holley issues....
- Thread starter XFlow_Fairlane
- Start date
so prob should jsut blow out all the holes in the main body from the metering block side then? should I take out the adjusting screws when I do this? (place for junk to blow out?)
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Anonymous
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turbo_fairlane_200":1hwrrczp said:
Take the whole entire carb apart and do it right. NO SHORTCUTS.
You think I can run 100 MPH in the 1/4 on a 1 barrel with a junky, dirty carb?
No way.
And your car will never aspire to the glory it is meant if you don't do the carb right - - 100%.
Not 96%, Not 98%, 100% correct.
It is, by FAR, the most important part of YOUR WHOLE ENTIRE BUILDUP!!!
Everything abount your car - -
how it starts,
runs drives,
builds boost or NOT,
makes power or NOT
Centers on how much attention to detail you pay to your carb.
I had my turbo mounted and plumbed in two days.
But I'll bet I have over 250 hours (I am positive MORE) in attention to the fuel system.
NOTHING on a turbo car is more important. NOTHING.
well the carb was presivously rebuilt when I got it and never had gas in it.....just sat on a shelf...
but with all these issues I think the time for a full teardown is here and a through cleaning. besides b12 what can I use to clean passages? some torch cleaning "brushes" or other FINE wire to poke through anything too solid for the b12?
but with all these issues I think the time for a full teardown is here and a through cleaning. besides b12 what can I use to clean passages? some torch cleaning "brushes" or other FINE wire to poke through anything too solid for the b12?
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Anonymous
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Fine wire is good.
Holley carbs are reall yvery simple, there isn't many places for junk to hide. Just make sure you understand very clearly where air and fuel flow (trace all the passages) while you do this....
Getting to know your carburetor INTIMATELY is what separates the men (those who makes their cars run well and strong) from the boys (those who don't)!!
Holley carbs are reall yvery simple, there isn't many places for junk to hide. Just make sure you understand very clearly where air and fuel flow (trace all the passages) while you do this....
Getting to know your carburetor INTIMATELY is what separates the men (those who makes their cars run well and strong) from the boys (those who don't)!!
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Anonymous
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turbo_fairlane_200":2esxgih3 said:
I NEVER, EVER trust anyone else's work.
see I was wondering if something liek a #60 drill would work good too since it would pull junk out and not force it in farther. will the b12 do much if there is some corrosion in a passage or other tough stuff like that (impacted dirt)
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Anonymous
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corrosion is different...
If that carb is that bad it may be more trouble than it is worth.
Try cleaning it first and see what happens. Stay away from the drill set!!
If that carb is that bad it may be more trouble than it is worth.
Try cleaning it first and see what happens. Stay away from the drill set!!
ok I took the metering block and bowl off tonight. soprayed in the bleeds and got fluid out the mounting surface.....nice heavy amount too
so what gaskets should be on there? they have a two pack of meteringblock and bowl gaskets at the parts store (all they have are the fancy nostick ones) and some kits for vac and mech sec carbs.....
now can I use 4bbl gaskets on mine? as far as I understand the 2300 is just a 4bbl with no secondaires on it.
so what gaskets should be on there? they have a two pack of meteringblock and bowl gaskets at the parts store (all they have are the fancy nostick ones) and some kits for vac and mech sec carbs.....
now can I use 4bbl gaskets on mine? as far as I understand the 2300 is just a 4bbl with no secondaires on it.
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Anonymous
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turbo_fairlane_200":2997n5gx said:
Not necessarily. I would make sure I got the right ones for that EXACT carb.
how do I know the EXACT ONES....counter monkeys ain't too smarts here
well I got on the holley website and looked up the gaskets for a 7448 carb (that is the number for a 350 carb) when I get home I will double check my body, block, and bowl numbers to make sure they are all correct.
standard blue no stick
what I fould was for the bowl: 108-83-2 108-89-2
meterting block: 108-35-2 108-121-2
these are all sold in pairs (damn 4v people) I pretty much have destroyed my old gaskets (thought my fuel inlet leak was the bowl leaking and overtightened)
the local o'reily's is the only place with decent carb parts (no one else even has jets) they had some blue gaskets there for a metering block and bowl but not sure if they were the right ones so will check today.
standard blue no stick
what I fould was for the bowl: 108-83-2 108-89-2
meterting block: 108-35-2 108-121-2
these are all sold in pairs (damn 4v people) I pretty much have destroyed my old gaskets (thought my fuel inlet leak was the bowl leaking and overtightened)
the local o'reily's is the only place with decent carb parts (no one else even has jets) they had some blue gaskets there for a metering block and bowl but not sure if they were the right ones so will check today.
ok I made some progress tonight.
I put in new bowl and block gaskets (old ones were about toast anyway)
no change in what it is doing.
so I got it on high idle and everything is fine then it starts gushing out the bowl vent after the car gets up to temp....
so I unhook the line to the pump (from teh tank) and hold it wide open (it was WAY flooded out) and after a bit it cleans out and runs real smooth....so I turn the idle down and no problems at all.....just sits and idles around 900 rpm with no problems....until it runs dry
so it seems I have a float level issue. I have it adjusted to the max and it still won't hold a proper level.
now I am starting to wonder if my pump (from a 1978 granada I think) is putting out too much pressure? this whole time I have reall been fitting a float level problem....just barely adjust it and it overflows....and it keeps overflowing all of a sudden for some reason.
I have a regulator I could toss on tonight and see if I can turn down the pressure and make any change in it.
I have "adjusted" the hanger on the float abunch trying to get it right but no availe....
(note.....I am gonna double check to make sure it is in the right direction...as I think I moved the float UP and not DOWN in the bowl..)
I put in new bowl and block gaskets (old ones were about toast anyway)
no change in what it is doing.
so I got it on high idle and everything is fine then it starts gushing out the bowl vent after the car gets up to temp....
so I unhook the line to the pump (from teh tank) and hold it wide open (it was WAY flooded out) and after a bit it cleans out and runs real smooth....so I turn the idle down and no problems at all.....just sits and idles around 900 rpm with no problems....until it runs dry
so it seems I have a float level issue. I have it adjusted to the max and it still won't hold a proper level.
now I am starting to wonder if my pump (from a 1978 granada I think) is putting out too much pressure? this whole time I have reall been fitting a float level problem....just barely adjust it and it overflows....and it keeps overflowing all of a sudden for some reason.
I have a regulator I could toss on tonight and see if I can turn down the pressure and make any change in it.
I have "adjusted" the hanger on the float abunch trying to get it right but no availe....
(note.....I am gonna double check to make sure it is in the right direction...as I think I moved the float UP and not DOWN in the bowl..)
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Anonymous
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turbo_fairlane_200":3odor8gx said:
1) AND IT WAS SUPPOSED TO BE REBUILT???
2) Go the other diection.....Or the needle/seat are shot.
3) NO!!
4) Bad needle and seat - carb was not rebuilt.
5) not the cure for the ACTUAL problem.
6) Maybe. You probably still need a needle and seat
The holley part # I use which are the blue gaskets, come in 2 pairs 2 for the bowl to block & the other 2 for block to body #108-200.
I get mine from summit, they are new & have not been sitting on a local parts shelf for years.
What is your fuel pressure?? These holleys can tolerate 8# I doubt your mechanical pump even comes close.
Are you using a fuel filter before the carburetor??? Is the o'ring on the needle & seat in good shape.
Take the float bowl off the metering block & set the float level in the bowl in the same horizontal plane as the bottom or top of the bowl for a rough setting. I have never ever had a holley carb flood fuel out of the vents or even be not adjustable. When you install the needle & seat in the bowl lubricate the o'ring with silicone or with vasoline so it enters the sealing part of the float bowl body not damaged, also check that area for sharp edges in the needle & seat bore in the bowl.
Remove the screw in needle & seat & see if a piece of debris or even teflon tape is caught in the needle at the seat??
Do you have the spring which supports the float to aid in sealing missing or installed correctly. That spring should have a slight assist to hold part of the weight of the float if installed correctly.
Unless you are running a turbo, your main jets should be in the area of 59-63. I run 59's for decent fuel miliage & I have no flat spots or hesitation.
Do you have a friend to borrow another carb from or just get another carb to try. Good luck .William
I get mine from summit, they are new & have not been sitting on a local parts shelf for years.
What is your fuel pressure?? These holleys can tolerate 8# I doubt your mechanical pump even comes close.
Are you using a fuel filter before the carburetor??? Is the o'ring on the needle & seat in good shape.
Take the float bowl off the metering block & set the float level in the bowl in the same horizontal plane as the bottom or top of the bowl for a rough setting. I have never ever had a holley carb flood fuel out of the vents or even be not adjustable. When you install the needle & seat in the bowl lubricate the o'ring with silicone or with vasoline so it enters the sealing part of the float bowl body not damaged, also check that area for sharp edges in the needle & seat bore in the bowl.
Remove the screw in needle & seat & see if a piece of debris or even teflon tape is caught in the needle at the seat??
Do you have the spring which supports the float to aid in sealing missing or installed correctly. That spring should have a slight assist to hold part of the weight of the float if installed correctly.
Unless you are running a turbo, your main jets should be in the area of 59-63. I run 59's for decent fuel miliage & I have no flat spots or hesitation.
Do you have a friend to borrow another carb from or just get another carb to try. Good luck .William
1) bowl has been off and one a million times this week and after overtightening it once they died (they were the cheap ass paper ones)
2) I went the other direction.....IDLED PERFECT
3) see above
4) see above
5) not needed
6) running fine now
if anything I could jsut use a slight tweak back the other way (seat raised all the way to get get fuel in it) it was idleing perfect and only needed the idle mix set so I went for a drive to the hardware store to get vac line and a tee for the wastegate (it is 2 blocks away) so I putted over there and put on the vac line and tee in the parking lot.
I drove back home and nailed the gas on a little one block stretch.....it pulled pretty good but feels flat once it gets going. I have the 65 jets in now so once I get my idle set proper I will start messing with those. it is dark out so I can't even see if it is belching black smoke or what.
I went up my street a couple blocks and it pulled pretty good through 3rd (only ran up to about 40mph) turned around and came back. it has a little hesitation off idle (prob needs more fuel as it is at 1.5 turns out) came back towards my place and it pulled the same.
I get back and there is some vapors form under the hood....pop it and find oil all over the drivers side near the front. I have my pcv tube laying loose and it looks liek it came from there or out the VC gasket (I tossed on some cover I had sround to drill holes in it for the cable)
2) I went the other direction.....IDLED PERFECT
3) see above
4) see above
5) not needed
6) running fine now
if anything I could jsut use a slight tweak back the other way (seat raised all the way to get get fuel in it) it was idleing perfect and only needed the idle mix set so I went for a drive to the hardware store to get vac line and a tee for the wastegate (it is 2 blocks away) so I putted over there and put on the vac line and tee in the parking lot.
I drove back home and nailed the gas on a little one block stretch.....it pulled pretty good but feels flat once it gets going. I have the 65 jets in now so once I get my idle set proper I will start messing with those. it is dark out so I can't even see if it is belching black smoke or what.
I went up my street a couple blocks and it pulled pretty good through 3rd (only ran up to about 40mph) turned around and came back. it has a little hesitation off idle (prob needs more fuel as it is at 1.5 turns out) came back towards my place and it pulled the same.
I get back and there is some vapors form under the hood....pop it and find oil all over the drivers side near the front. I have my pcv tube laying loose and it looks liek it came from there or out the VC gasket (I tossed on some cover I had sround to drill holes in it for the cable)
Set your idle mixture to lean side but still retain a smooth idle. If you have hesitation use the orange accerator cam in the # 2 position & your accerator pump discharge nozzle should be .031.
Also your pcv valve should get its vacuum supply from the centrally located carb base & not the vacuum port at the front of the intake log. this will lean the front cylinders & aggrivate a lean condition on the front cylinders.
If after this you still have problems, you had better see a professional to get this problem resolved. William
Also your pcv valve should get its vacuum supply from the centrally located carb base & not the vacuum port at the front of the intake log. this will lean the front cylinders & aggrivate a lean condition on the front cylinders.
If after this you still have problems, you had better see a professional to get this problem resolved. William
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Anonymous
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turbo_fairlane_200":39owm07e said:
1) CONGRATS!!
2) READ THIS THREAD:
http://www.turbomustangs.com/forums/sho ... hlight=PCV
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