holley issues....

[XFlow_Fairlane]

when I had my TC I read alot on this. I have a stock ford PCV valve in teh cover with a hose coming off it and just hanging there. it has been like this all summer since the port on my cliffy adaptor is a smaller thread than the fitting I had on the stock carb spacer. because of this no noost is seeing the crankcase...just blowby. I had torn the motor down when I got it from a guy. turned out it was a fresh rebuild (cam not even broke in yet) so I tossed it back together and drove it. so all I can think of is:

1. rings not seated right

2. VC leaking

3. jus tmild blowby but shot out of a small tube pointed forward and blew back over everything

4. head/block just weaping on the side nad dripping everywhere.

 

[Guest]

Id try putting your hand half over the inlet of the carb again.

I suggest you reinstall a choke flap and connect er all up, just my opinion. You can always open it all the way manually by adjusting inside the car.

Great its running better.

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

nah it starts and runs great now. just need to fine tune the idle mixture (I have no vac gauge to do it with)

 

[Anonymous]

nah it starts and runs great now. just need to fine tune the idle mixture (I have no vac gauge to do it with)

Use a good rpm gauge, find the middle of where each screw runs best.

 

[Guest]

Most idle air screws are all the way in, 1 1/2 turns out.

Some vary up to all the way in, 1 1/8 turns out.

Maybe that might be a good reference.

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

ok so I still have a horrible transition circuit problem. with the float level raised up it helps some but still won't remove it entirely.

 

[Anonymous]

what is the vacuum number on the power valve?

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

65 I think. do I need to go up numerically?

 

[Anonymous]

Maybe......

Going up numerically will open sooner....

Maybe your main air bleeds are too large? Closing them down will tip in the mains sooner.

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

how do I do that?

I would think the changing the PV would only change tip on response and not cure my dead spot I have. the motor idles fine but as the idle speed is increased there is a spot where it doesn't deliver fuel so will not even idle there. are the main air bleeds changed as easy as they are on a 5200? I am taking that they aren't

 

[Anonymous]

I change my air bleeds the easy way - I epoxy them shut and drill to the size I want! (or soldering- the old fashioned way)

I have a drill bits all the way down to .013" !!

I can use whatever drill bits will fit in the hole for a reference,

then epoxy shut (very small amount - doing it twice with two very small amounts is better than one huge blob that flows a long way down)

The thicker the better.
JB weld actually works pretty well, but the hole needs to be very clean
(JB weld doesn't stick as well as other epoxies)

The smaller the bleed, the sooner the mains start flowing. You may have to jet a little leaner after this mod to get it right.

 

[wsa111]

I would suggest first trying another carburetor to see if the same conditions exist.

Since this carb is used with a blow through turbo, get a new carburetor so then you know nobody has drilled any bleeds out & the throttle shaft & other seals are tight.

Then hook up an air fuel ratio sensor via an oxygen sensor to monitor the air fuel ratio.

First check the cruise air fuel ratio this can be changed via main jet changes.

Second run a full throttle check, if the mixture is too rich all the way through the full rpm range change the power valve restrictions either leaner or richer.

If just the top end fuel ratio is too rich open up the main air bleeds .003 if too lean do as linc says & make the main air bleed smaller.

If you have a hesitation off idle make sure you are at least using the orange pump cam in the # 2 position, or increase the pump nozzles or try a more agressive pump cam from the holley assortment package.

If the idle transition is still to lean you can solder or epoxy the idle air bleed & make it smaller or enlarge the idle mixture orifice in the main metering block.

Good luck, this can be costly & time consuming.

I think you need to get in touch with Linc or Will-does10 & see what they have done. I have not seen a post from either of them on any of these problems.

This rebuild carb you have could be your entire problem. William

 

[Anonymous]

I think you need to get in touch with Linc or Will-does10 & see what they have done. I have not seen a post from either of them on any of these problems.

I'm here! :

Will's carb is all stock, pretty much with "practically" no mods (except for float and such as needed for boost - he hasn't got inside and fooled with fuel passages and bleeds and stuff like that).

I am very curious about that carb - - - - - - it has been surrounded by mystery ever since you got it in "rebuilt" (!) condition!!

It could have had the metering plate swapped from another carb for all you know. That would jack with the idle transition metering settings.

It would be nice if you knew someone with another holley 350-----


I have a motorcraft 1.08 that you can try!!!

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

well I know a pump cam change would help it BUT even with the idle speed raised it will hit this dead spot. and when I say dead I mean it flat out has no fuel delivery at all there. well if I am taking it apart again to mess with the bleeds I was wondering if I should just tap it to take the 5200 style swappable air bleeds so I can just (carefully) swap them on the motor?

I would try another carb if someone had one....modded for boost. but even then it cold have different jets or PV in it or different bleeds so I wouldn't know if they match up any. I think the carb is coming off anyway this weekend as I seem to have a dead idle circuit on one side of the carb I think since I get no change from one of the idle screws.

so if will was willing to loan me a carb for a couple weeks....

I guess the real problem I have is that I am in the last 6 weeks of my degree so I am pretty swampped plus it is reaching freezing temps for a low around here so messing with a carb isn't alot of fun. it would help in the warming up in the morning since I could hold it at say 1200-1500 rpm instead of 2000 while warming up plus I could (should) bump my idle up a little now that it is colder, until it warms up fully it doesn't like the 800rpm idlle.

 

[Anonymous]

Find a carb with a choke on it.
Who cares if a little boost goes past the choke linkage hole, drivability is more important in the winter.
and you need to focus on school.

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

well I don't know anyone with a carb I can just toss on there. and buying a new carb to try is out of the question. once warmed up it idles ifne and all but is still missing that transition circuit. as far as focusing on school...I am busy but alot of my time is going into work (20 hours a week there) I live in town (pop 25K...college is 20K) so only have a 10 min drive in town to get there (maybe 2 miles total each way) so I cna handle the drive ok. I am considering drilling and tapping for removeable air bleeds though since it will only take a few mins on the mill and be easier to make changes than epoxy and drilling. is there any common place to get those small drills for jetting/bleeds? there is NOTHING in this town but the typical parts houses and a true value. I will check in the shop but we have some lettered and numbered drill sets or will those be too big stilll?

 

[Anonymous]

Letters will be too big and numbers usually only go as small as 60

sometimes hobby shops have mini drill bits. Or even ebay

 

[wsa111]

The small drill set is available from snap on tools & often a local industrial supply company like grainger.

I really think you don't need to start fooling with air bleeds without the proper air fuel mixture reading analizer.

Like Linc & I say get another carb & try it for comparasion.

Did you put the orange cam @ #2 setting in for your accerator pump??

Believe me you don't need to go the air bleeds if you don't run a fuel curve on a dyno or with the proper air fuel tester to record your readings.

The 7448-350 carb is real close stock, with the exception of just tweeking main jet sizes & accerator pump cams. William

 

[Anonymous]

I agree, the carb shouldn't be that jacked up. I am thinking it got assembled from random parts.

I can try to get the 1.08 carb sent if you want to try it. Choke horn has been milled so far, that is it.

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

does that 1.08 carb have a solid float?

well I work a million hours tomorrow so maybe when I get to work (I work in a computer lab sitting on my butt posting on here) I will bring in my carb and digi cam and try and get this sorted out some. I still don't see how a pump cam is gonna change my idle though? but it would bandaid the off throttle response.

like I said it will idle fine at a low idle speed smooth as silk but as I turn it up it will reach a point where it starts breaking up and abou /18 turn on the idle speed form there it will just flat out die. if I turn it up higher it will idle again (once restarted) I am working almost 30 hours in the next 3 days (plus classes) so hoping to get this sorted out sometime hopefully. plus at least this way I am done working weekends for the semester!!



like I said I also live in BFE...closest grainger is STL (2 hours away) ALL we have in town here is the chain autoparts stores and a truevalue hardware store and a lowes. the only sears we have is one of the applicance places with ONE shelf of tools. this town only exists for the college and there is pretty much no local industry here (poorest part of the state)