If a 200 rev,s better than a 250...

[Anonymous]

If a 200 rev,s better than a 250 would i be better off putting the 2v head on a 200 (can you do that ) if so will it have the grunt of the 250 and what mods would be best ,as it is i give v8s a good run but i want more.
these are pre-cross motors .
or would i be better off going crossflow some thing thou 200 or 250 i know the xf came out with a great looking rocker cover on the 200 but its gunt i want :splat: and carb perffed its for a cortina mk3 td and i dont want to go computer and all that stuff and what sort of mods so as it rev,s well and gets up quick
cheers GSpack

 

[Anlushac11]

8)

Best would be to get a Oz 221. More cubes than a 200 and shorter rods than the 250.

Short of that then yes the Oz head 200 would be ab excellent motor. Bulletproof, revs well, and none of the revving problems the 250 has.

 

[xctasy]

There are really three types of pre-cross flow 200.

1.The US and Aussie ones to 1964.5, four bearing cranks.

2.and the US and Aussie ones to 1970, seven main bearings.US ones carried on like that till 1983.

3. and then Ford Aussie, on a cost cutting mission, made a 250 blocked 200. Long block, 9.47 " tall, not ~7.81" like the pre 1970 numbers. Rods were really long, and it reved like 700 rpm more than the 250, but was much, much heavier than the really trim low deck 200's

Both lo-deck 200's and 250's have one thing in common, a crappy rod to stroke ratio.

The loss of 50 cubes is a bad idea. It's great for fuel economy, and for sure, the Aussie post 1970 200's/3.3's are very smooth compared to the 250. But loosing 25% of the capacity means it'll have to rev over 25% more to make up for the power loss, and there will be 25% less torque where you need it...from idle to the red line.

If you wan't to turn it into a Hi-rpm scremer in a Cortina, with better handling, get the low deck 200, shove a 2V on it, and enjoy the 150 weight saving on the 250 engine. But in a Falcon, go cubes.

My 221 cranked 250 x-flow engine is the best trade-off I can think of. iT It isn't a cheep combo, as I used forged 305 pistons, and bad mistake when there are ACL ones for a fraction of the cost, and almost as strong, and much shallower. I could have just used the 250 crank, and 200 rods, and I wouldn't have had to weld up a 221 crank to fit the block. So I lost 29 cubes, just to gain a much better rod ratio. Go figure!

Any less capacity than that, and the heavy long-deck block lookes like a lot of weight with no gain. I think it is sort of like a 289 , 308, 327 or 340, the best combo for the block. With a blower in a Cortina, I think I'll have the measure of any thing streetable, but we'll see.

How about AU rods, and 221 or 305 Chev pistons or even 200 rods with ACL Race pistons? The rod ratio is better with no loss in cubes. Beats an engine swop.

 

[addo]

Packman, as it is you've got a combo that can grunt pretty hard. There's a couple of things that can help it along, but after them, it's crossflow territory.

A tri-carb setup is one option (the GTR-XU/1 went pretty hard, eh?)

Turbo and a larger single carb is the other.

Either will benefit from recamming and optimising the top end.

Regards, Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

SO you would recommend the 250 2v precross xecute or crossflow

 

[Anonymous]

OK just mabye i might go the cross flowif so xf 4.1 would be the best ? and it can run ulp to with carb and turbos kit and easyer to get yes what would be a good combo to kick v8 butt with out going over board but has the go at a drop of a hat and i dont care about mpg the 2v ccrews the juice any way

 

[Anonymous]

GS pack
The crossflow is better I dont think anyone would dispute this. Bit of novelty with a 2V but I dont really care all that much about this. If I could go back knowing what I know now I would go crossflow.
Yo talk about grunt, if you want grunt and for it to feel something like a V8 then just keep it a 250 as you will lose this if you go smaller especially a 200.
If you do something like XT falcons crossflow I think you will gain a marked increase if power. If it were me and I wanted to keep most of the low end power but lose a bit to gain it up high (but not too much) I would go for a crow 280 280 cam which is 214 at 50 and peaks at about 4800. Its a good compromise and if you put an ultra flow sprint manifold or a redline four barrel it would go great.
Simple cheap and effective, depends what you want.
Cheers.

 

[Anonymous]

The main thing is tim is i have had a couple of good v8 and know the power you can get at bottom end and top ,the fact is i have a gem of a car now as you know and find the 2v to be fun but it lacks the pull and feel of the v8 even thou the exhaust can change the sound i just want to gain the best all round for power to bring back the feel which i miss and just hope i can gain this .
Just getting a good idear of what can be done so i can choose the right path and not waste time and money in making a mistake to get what i want

 

[xctasy]

SO you would recommend the 250 2v precross xecute or crossflow

If its a pre-ADR 27A emissions TD, you can go ballistic!

Go for either an alloy head or 2V.If its in a Cortina, and its got a 2V already, keep it. If you can, do eveything to get the lighter alloyhead engine. Either way go wild on the cam, and get 3.3 rods and ACL pistons. Look to get that 1.6:1 rod to stroke ratio.

People who want on road drivablity and V8-style grunt will find it all when you're not lugging a tonne and a half around. The main thing is that as you go up with the cam, you loose torque. In a light car like a Cortina, you can dial in a quite savage cam, but still have low-end response. It's very easy to overcam a heavy car like a Falcon when it's running 2.77:1 gears and an ancient auto with only three gears. I'd say a 280 degrees cam in a 3000 lb plus auto Falcon with the stock stall speed is where the line is drawn.

Gear it with a Cortina single rail or close ratio 5-speed. The toploader is heavier. Sometimes, another auto Cortina six will catch you napping between gear changes. A C4 won't give you the top end, but will allow you to launch like an exocet if you run 3.5:1 gears with an LSD.

The 2v head has HUGE intake ports, while the alloy head ones are small but perfectly profiled. The 2V valves could do with a backcut, and to be a similar size to the last US 250's, or about the same as the XF's valves. The 2V exhast is restrictive, but can be cleaned up. The cost of inserting the head is quite an outlay compared to the alloy head engine, and it's going to carry less compression before detonation sets in. Both engines should be pegged below 10:1, and the cast iron head needs to have no polishing of the intake ports, and I'd say 9.5:1 tops, and use an octane booster.

Some alloy head engines don't like to run extra squeeze either. The post 86 head is very sensitive to ignition, as the shrouding interupts incomming gas to create better emissions and mixture motion. On the earlier heads, the valve is smaller, but the chamber flows better. Putting bigger XF valves in the earlier head improves the peak cfm a few cfm without loosing power anywhere, and is less detonation prone, according to one Ford engineer.

Headers need to fit the body. Falcon non-cross-flow ones aren't easy swaps into TE Cortinas, but the TD doesn't have the control bush at the back of the frame rails, so they may fit. Alloy head Cortina extractors are pricey. My friend Richard spent NZ 450 landing his here, on a base charge of 230 bucks for the TE header.

As for carb, your choice. But you want grunt, and there is a 220 hp flatline on both engines with a 500 cfm Holley 2-bbl. Any vac sec 465 cfm carb (290 hp on a 253 Commodore Cup car, remeber) would like either engine, and a 600 cfm would be perfect ( 375 hp is possible!). In a smaller car, the rev rise would be rapid, and the bigger Holley 600 cfm with a 34-6 kit giving replaceable secondary jets has been ticked as one of the best carbs for a hot six of this size. A Redline Four barrel intake manifold would do the job nicely on an aloy head, while there are a brace of 2V's getting modded for Holley 4-bbls on US cars, just using the stock intake. Run for a twin 2.125" exhast, and if you can track one down, a 180B, 200B, or the bigger 240/260/280C fuel tank can be bolted to the trunk floor, and the 55 liter tank can be removed, leaving space for dual 2.125"pipes with two of the stock Six cylinder mufflers to the diff, then 2.25 over the diff, to big twin 2.5" mufflers each side. Running two mufflers is better, as they don't drone like a big single.

Ignition is better off being the XE Duraspark by Bosch. The total advance needs to be right, set by a dyno, and backed off a smidgen for safety. The profile isn't that easy to change, but there are parts around at a cost.

My prediction is that a 600 4-bbl with a worked 2v or Alloy head engine would trip the 250 hp mark at about 5000 rpm with a good 280 degree cam. Thats a potential 13.5 second quarter at 101 mph if the bags don't slide, and you don't muff a change.

 

[Anonymous]

Thankyou xecute thats just the info i have been after
cheers GSpack[/quote]