Loving the 1101

[flash_point01]

two questions.
1. If there is a little play in the shaft for the throttle plate will i end up with a vacuum leak where the shaft enters and exits the base?
2. Should the power assay (or whatever its called) move freely? I lubed it up with some WD40 and it moves up and down but clicks into place. So i can push it down with minimal effort and it stays down with a "click" noise. Then i can pull it up and it again "clicks" into place.

 

[flash_point01]

No love?

 

[CoupeBoy]

two questions.
1. If there is a little play in the shaft for the throttle plate will i end up with a vacuum leak where the shaft enters and exits the base?

this is an inevitable situation that will happen with any carburator. The question is how do you mitigate the progression of the situation. For example if you have your throttle rod/cable hooked up to the top of the lever on the side of the carb and the spring 180° on the other side of the lever you will put a lot of pressure on only one side of the throttle shaft and it will wear through into that side of the housing or shaft the speed will be determined by how much spring tension you have.

the other situation is that you have the spring either mounted to the throttle rod or on the same side of the carburator lever as the throttle rod, this (in my opinion) will negate some of the pulling and pushing on the throttle shaft because it will not be trying to pull the entire throttle shaft in one direction (I hope that makes sense, if it doesn't I can try and get some pictures later)

2. Should the power assay (or whatever its called) move freely? I lubed it up with some WD40 and it moves up and down but clicks into place. So i can push it down with minimal effort and it stays down with a "click" noise. Then i can pull it up and it again "clicks" into place.

I rebuilt an 1100 a couple months ago and I don't recall that it 'clicked' at all, seems sort of weird to me.

-ron

 

[flash_point01]

Makes sense about the wear, originally the shaft holding the throttle plate was so tight I couldn't make it move. I tried turning with vise grips, pounding on the throttle plate. Nothing worked. Eventually I got enough movement to pull my very bent throttle plate out and pound the shaft through. I then ran some 200 grit over the shaft and inside the holes that house the shaft. There is a minor amount of play between the shaft and the housing. How small of a hole is going to cause a vacuum leak? Should I find something to put on the shaft to make a tighter fit? The play is small enough that a piece of paper would work. Oh one other thing, when the throttle is closed should it still have a small amount of angle? Or should it sit parallel with the base?

Oh and the click isn't my concern as much as it snapping into place is. If i push down should it stay down or pop up on its own?

 

[addo]

One of the standard ways of revitalising an SU carb is to use a thin bush on the throttle shaft bores. They're first reamed oversize and then a bushing of 20 thou (I think) by about 3/16" wide Teflon strip is "wrapped" around the shaft.

You can also get Teflon lined steel bushes in a variety of ID/OD combinations. Some play is a given with any arrangement, but if you can feel the slop it's clearly too loose.

 

[LEROY POLL]

HI FLASH__POINT


.....YOUR POWER ROD ASS. INSIDE SHOULD HAVE A SMALL SPRING ON IT. THE SPRING PUSHES DOWN ON THE ROD TO OPEN THE CHECK BALL POWER VALVE. THEIR IS A PISTON AT THE TOP THAT HAS VACUUM PULLING UP ON IT TO SHUT THE CHECK BALL AT THE OTHER END.

.....WHEN THIS IS DRY ...IT WILL ACT AS YOU SAY. TO CHECK IF IT IS GOOD PUT SOME WD40 ON IT AND UP INSIDE TO THE PISTON AND IT SHOULD NOT CLICK ANY MORE. HOW EVER IF IT STILL CLICKS ... ITS BENT, PISTON IS WORN AND DRAGGING. IT IS BAD. YOU MIGHT BE ABLE THE FIX THE BENT ROD...???

.....I HAVE TAKEN THE TOP OFF THE PISTON AND CLEANED UP THE PISTON AND THE UPPER AREA. I DON'T KNOW IF YOU WOULD BE WANTING TO DO THAT OR NOT.

.....ADDO HAS IT RIGHT.

LIVE IN GRACE

LEROY POLL