M112 - 300 Build for the '56

[pmuller9]

Is it possible to make the bracket wide enough to catch 3 cover bolts.
The bracket cannot vibrate. The sensor needs to be rock solid.

 

[guhfluh]

As long as the sensor cannot vibrate or change gap with temperature, it doesn't matter, but with the distance your wheel is set out from the mounting surface of the block and timing cover, I'd fear aluminum would have issues if it isn't very overbuilt, gusseted, etc.

 

[Firepower354]

Can the pickup be mounted to the middle of the timing cover?

 

[guhfluh]

Can the pickup be mounted to the middle of the timing cover?

Man, I just went back and looked at were the wheel sits on the pulley and I retract my previous statement. I thought the wheel was put on the outside of the pulley furthest away from the block. I see now that it's right against the block and cover. I agree that if the belt clears, you can weld a mounting boss to the cover and attach the sensor or sensor mount there.

 

[clintonvillian]

Can the pickup be mounted to the middle of the timing cover?

Is there room for a bolt head inside the cover, been awhile since I had one off. I could just drill through it, and mount a piece of angle to it.

 

[clintonvillian]

After revisiting, aren't the actuators dual-acting diaphragms?

I wanted to revisit this. This would work, it would just be all or noting, a complete dump. This could even be done off a switch couldn't it?

When on the solenoid opens and the bypass sees vacuum, opening the system. Then when off, the system is under full boost, unless the second port sees vacuum in plenum and then opens?

question is where do I get a solenoid like that?

 

[pmuller9]

Is there room for a bolt head inside the cover, been awhile since I had one off. I could just drill through it, and mount a piece of angle to it.

Two of your bolts are right at the center hub of the cam gear.
You can use countersunk bolt heads clear the gear.

 

[Pontus]

Sounds like red loctite will be a close, trusted friend. I'd be paranoid of those bolts loosening and getting chewed up by your timing set.

 

[pmuller9]

I wanted to revisit this. This would work, it would just be all or noting, a complete dump. This could even be done off a switch couldn't it?

When on the solenoid opens and the bypass sees vacuum, opening the system. Then when off, the system is under full boost, unless the second port sees vacuum in plenum and then opens?

question is where do I get a solenoid like that?

You will need a 3 port valve so the bottom of the bypass valve actuator can vent to the outside when it is not connected to the manifold.

MAC 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA BOOST CONTROL 35A 12V-DC 1/8 IN NPT SOLENOID VALVE B238300: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

MAC 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA BOOST CONTROL 35A 12V-DC 1/8 IN NPT SOLENOID VALVE B238300: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

 

[Firepower354]

Is there room for a bolt head inside the cover, been awhile since I had one off. I could just drill through it, and mount a piece of angle to it.

View attachment 6318

Aluminum welded on, or countersunk bolts from inside, should be able to whip out a nice little bracket.

 

[bubba22349]

If there is enough room on the back side of the timing cover to clear the cam timing gear you could just cut a simple small slot in the cover so the bottom of the L angle can stick out and put the top of the L on the inside to weld and be hidden.

 

[clintonvillian]

Sounds like red loctite will be a close, trusted friend. I'd be paranoid of those bolts loosening and getting chewed up by your timing set.

Definitely in the back of my mind...I would think nylocks and locktite would do the trick though.

Does oil make its way into the timing cover? Enough to worry about leaking through bolt holes or a slot?

 

[THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER]

Does oil make its way into the timing cover? Enough to worry about leaking through bolt holes or a slot?

Yes. The cam gear gets pressure fed and the crank gear is exposed to the oil pan.

 

[drag-200stang]

In case you are wondering how a used ford timing cover will weld, assuming that ford used the same material as the 200...I sand blasted the greasy cover and cleaned with acetone to weld a patch over the timing bump out, I had to cut off to clear the SFI damper..I was surprised how easy it welded.
Maybe a thick enough pad to tap some bolt holes could be welded on.

 

[Mydogisshaggy]

Crazy nice build

 

[sdiesel]

avoid nylock nuts and replace with stover.

 

[Firepower354]

I wouldn't fear adding a tab

 

[sdiesel]

wow thats pretty welding. but why?
and it was not only pretty but perfect welding if you got no shrinkage

 

[Firepower354]

wow thats pretty welding. but why?
and it was not only pretty but perfect welding if you got no shrinkage

Putting crank and cam position sensors in a convenient spot, while merging two different systems. L29 heads/intake, on L18 block.
8.1 has a ring on the rear of the crank, and a problematic sensor design/location, but a front cam sensor, upper half of cover.
7,4 Vortec has a crank sensor on front, lower half of cover, but a distributor, that would be difficult to access in the vehicle.
Using a Mercury Marine 24x front reluctor from the 525-600 EFI engines, to replace the 4x L29, lets me use the 411 ECM.

There was a slight "potato chip" bend, despite bolting to the block, but some backside stitching pulled almost all out, and a shim/clamp tweak brought it to flat, where the O-ring will seal. Richard is the third generation at a well known local welding shop, and if I schedule it, and show up at closing time with a 6 of Labatt's, we get my oddball bike/auto projects done. Sticking up for a middle school kid on the bus, 40 years ago, paid off

 

[THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER]

... Sticking up for a middle school kid on the bus, 40 years ago, paid off

That's good Karma. I regret not doing that more myself.